Splicing wires doesn't seem like it should be rocket science. Touch one bare wire to another, make 'em stay together, and you're off joyriding in your uncle's hot rod at 3:00 a.m. But as it turns out, splicing wires can be rocket science, with even NASA formulating standards for how to securely and safely make these connections. Nevertheless, gearheads continue to employ a variety of different wire-splicing methods, insisting theirs is the strongest or the most conductive or the most resilient. So let's semi-scientifically determine which is the best.
For this test, I'm considering just straight splices—wire to wire—and not any sort of tap, crimp, or plug-in connectors. (Splice versus crimp is a discussion for another day.) I'm also looking at low-voltage automotive wiring, not household or small appliance wiring, and focusing on the splice, not any covering like heat-shrink tubing or electrical tape. While many kinds of splices exist, I've narrowed down the test methods to four, all of which are commonly used in auto repairs. I'll evaluate each on the tensile strength of its mechanical and soldered connections, and I'll make a note of other attributes, including aesthetics and how the splice affects the wiring itself, all of which is 20- to 22-gauge and comes from my Nissan Leaf's harness.
Discover the merits and drawbacks of rattail, J-hook, lineman's and palm frond splices.
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