90 Ford Ranger 2.9l

First, take all those new, unneeded parts off and put the old ones back on. Then, it's off to the dump.

You don't really mean start one time and not start again. If that were true you not know if the new parts work or not.

So, how long do you wait to restart it?

Fuel injection? Carb?

Do you have water in you fuel?

LOL electronic parts are not returnable. Yes it will start run 30 seconds then quit. the after a couple of hours it will start and do the same thing

The electronics eventually end up as a spark for ignition of the fuel.

Can you check to see what you are not getting when it shuts down?

Have a look at the Ranger Station....TFI seems to be problematic...

Issues and troubleshooting guide and fixes....

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.shtml

General knowledge...

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/2_9_Page.html

SPutters just before quitting would be a sign of fuel pump shutdown.

Just going dead off would be either fuel injector system shutting down or ignition system shutting down.

If it was my vehicle I would be opening the fuse boxes and looking at individual wires on the backside of the fuses and doing the same wit the relay sockets.

What you are describing sounds a lot like a wire connection getting hot and loosing contact with a fuses or relay which unfortunately is a fairly common occurrence with Fords of all ages.

I have a 99 Ford F250 Super duty that has a permanent jumper wire in place from the injector power relay in the fuse box to the injector harness on the engine due to bad mystery connection between the two that was doing what you describe.

I never felt like cutting open the main wiring harnesses to find the bad spot so the permanent jumper was my fix and yo may end up doing the same once you figure out what's loosing its power.

That is what mine did I hit a bump and been having trouble every since, and if I run a jumper wire from battery to fuel injector harness it will run, but did know if this would screw anything else up

Don't listen to him. He's just ............what?

Oh. Never mind.

If you have not found the problem by now the positive side of the injectors along with many other things are fed from the EEC Power Relay.

Shouldn't bother anything if it being feed from the original relay that controls it.

I have my 99 F250 set up for dual fuel use with propane and to shut the gasoline side of things down for propane operation I just kill that power lead that supplies the 12 volts to the injectors.

Easy and simple and the ECM knows nothing about it.

Does that model have just one fuel pump or two?

I am surprised no one has yet mentioned exhaust. Check to see that some joker hasn't jammed a spud into the tailpipe. When it does run see that there is as much exhaust gas coming out of the tailpipe as normal. Whilst there put your hand flat against the pipe and check that there is no intermittent sucking. If there is it is likely that there is a valve problem.

If all is o.k. it is possible that the "choke" system is at fault. It is not a choke any longer but a temperature sensor, fuel mixture sensor, air flow sensor, etc.

Good luck

Jim

GA

He should, if possible, take the exhaust pipe apart by removing the cat, (I am assuming this is a gas engine and not a diesel, but a diesel filter thats blocked might give the same effect).

Loosening the pipe well, may be enough for a short test (longer than the problem takes of course!).

The pickup coil in the distributor is a common problem.

I'm not familiar (kiss kiss ) with these cars, and ask, have you checked the engine
earth (return) lead? I had a similar experience several years ago.

The lead was loose on the stud, not clamped firmly, and any vibration could disconnect and reconnect the return.

With the lead at rest, the engine would start most times, it having a connection, and intermittently, be difficult to start. (very frustrating) When running, the engine would stop soon after starting, depending upon the loose connection.

If the engine was reved up, the intermittent contact of the vibration could maintain the return, and the car appear to run "normal!" A most frustrating fault.

As you say, you have checked or replaced the fuel and ignition components it may be something like the above what is causing the problem. (if not, check for electric tracking, which can happen even on new components.)

Hope this helps. jt.

"Why do Scuba divers always fall backwards off their boats?"

I replied: "They have to go backwards. If they fell forwards,

they'd still be in the boat. Wouldn't they !!!"

With a bloody nose.

Sometimes a EEC relay in right front kick panel and a fuel pump relay go bad or have a poor ground.

It sounds like your tachymetric relay (or equivalent) which is designed to stop the fuel flow in the event of a crash has failed... It is overridden at start for about 30 seconds to allow the engine to start, thereafter regular pulses from the running engine keep it engaged, if the pulses stop so does the fuel flow, so I would guess the relay has failed or it is not getting the pulses .....

Ok I'm gonna give it a shot. How is the oil pressure?, these things start and then have a window of opportunity to get certain parameters in compliance before they will run on, you said you hit a bump, could it have knocked one of the oil pressure sensors loose? (there are a couple of them, one for the gauge other for the ECM).

The reason I ask is that a buddy of mine was bitten squarely in the butt by this one.

It seem as though the problem was because of gas in the oil. when the fuel pressure reg went bad gas was being sucked up by the vacuum line. I had just changed the oil before any of this happen so I was concerned about it but when I checked it the other day it was 4 inches above the fill line so changed and was damn near 10 quarts in there changed it and the frigging thing fired right off. Still runs like crap but suppose now will have to change plugs and stuff

Thanks for getting back. I would never have worked that out!