Stacked Paver Retaining Wall - Pinning

I'd use a landscape block adhesive available from any big box hardware store.

Such as

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LOCTITE PL 10-oz Adhesive

Item #: 214677 | Model #: 1654392

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$4.99

Those don't look like the ones I've used. The ones I've used have a small lip or tab at the bottom rear which sits over the block below to prevent it from slipping forward. Yours look like they rely on something like a 'biscuit' to prevent slipping. Since you're only planning to go 3 or 4 high, Lyn's suggestion is fine. I'd be more concerned about whether a pallet is enough, and what will you do to finish the job if it's not enough? If you measure and make a count, you may find that it takes a lot more than your 'eyeball' estimate.

Thank you for the advice. I'll give the adhesive a try. BTW, I actually have two pallets and only need the wall on one side to level the small patio area.

It appears that you have picked up what are called Segmental Retaining Wall (SRT) concrete blocks with a shear key cast into the bottom (?) of them.

Since you are only going to have a maximum exposed wall face of 15-inches I would not worry about "pinning" them together, UNLESS you are driving a vehicle on the retained soil behind the wall.

Yes, use the adhesive to tie the wall blocks together to help minimize displacement due to the effects of Frost Action.

The slot appears to be in the middle, which is counter to most "pinned" solutions. Usually, a typical fiberglass pin connects two courses of retaining blocks, providing a setback gradient to the finish wall. The holes/slots are not centered on both sides of the block. These blocks do not appear to be produced for that, on the other hand, 15" is 3 courses? A pin could work fine, will # 3 (3/8") rebar work? The advantage being that they can be dissassembled for fine adjustment, the liquid adhesive can be a pain.

I agree. It looks to me like they're made to have a piece of rebar driven into the ground through the slot, to hold them in place. Maybe not a piece of rebar through every one, but often enough to stabilize the wall. And maybe every 4th or 5th one turned 90 degrees to act as a deadman with the rebar through it.

I would stake the base course with rebar to ensure stability then use an adhesive on the next courses of stone.

It would be better to use hot dip galvanised re bar this close to the surface.

Jim

I agree with Lyn, You're only going 3 courses high so you're not holding back too much force. I made a 3 - 4 foot tall retaining wall and it held up perfectly with just the adhesive. The wall wasn't holding back a mountain, it was just holding back a sloped front yard.