Spring Washer vs Bell Washer

If you think about untightening then none is very good. The best is to have an elastic assembly and use LOCTITE or similar to avoid the lost of preload. Best solution would be a high grade bolt as long as possible tightened up to the Re limit or a bit less. It is possible to use a spting washer or as it is also named belleville-washer.

Belleville Washer is a cone with a hole thru' which the bolt passes and on which the nut tightens the bolt to huge axial pull--.

Belleville washer can be tightened to many times the force possible on normal spring washer of 1-helix-turn construction.Hence huge friction grip possible.

So you do not need LOCTITE likes any more if you have this class!

Hi Guest,

You will find much useful information here.

Regards

use both flat then spring against the bolt head.

Nylock nuts?

Nord-lock washers?

Without knowing the hardness of the materials being fixtured, there is really no way to answer this question properly.

As a general rule, hard metals need no washers. Simply preload the fastener to get the required tension and it stays put. Daimler Benz actually provides a table of shank sizes on critical bolts as used on rod ends and main bearing caps. The necking down from the previous use is measured and used to determine if the bolt is still usable or should be replaced.

The proper use of washers is when clamping soft materials. It helps insure that the bolt head does not dig into the material and give false readings when torqued.

My experience with bell washers is limited to applications where thermal expansion is considerable. The bell washer is used to insure that the bolt still has tension over a broad temperature range. I don't know that this works but it's what I see specked out in really hot environments that are cylical in nature.

L.J.