Bon Aire Durango Control Module Issue

Maybe the remote battery is dead. Try checking the IR output from the remote control with a cell phone camera, which can often see the infrared output.

I replaced battery in remote ( 1 button cell ) 3.0 v / meter showed voltage as 3.2 v / I have a spare remote used to test ( known good unit ) .

Only after board was replaced did remote operate control module.

Poor quality tablet camera picture ( no excuse ) .

I will try to explain circuit / schematic : ( note : the schematic is for wiring only, there is not a schematic of the board, itself )

110 v 60 hz on input line, green to earth block, white to neutral block, black to speed control selector switch. The speed control selector switch is actually the toggle switch that allows operator to switch from manual to remote.

White and red from speed control selector switch , white to input on rotary speed control selector switch. This switch actually controls fan speeds. Red to Active input on speed control pcb.

The speed control selector switch is dpst.

Outputs from rotary speed selector switch to speed control pcb : grey to low, brown to pump, orange to med, black to high.

The rotary speed selector switch electrically is 2 dpdt switch 's . Grey / brown off, grey / brown on. Orange / black off, orange / black on . White input.from speed control selector switch.

Input from receiver led to pcb via ribbon cable.

Input line green via earth block to pcb earth. Input line white via neutral block to neutral on pcb.

White from neutral block to pump. Green from earth block to pump. Black from pcb output to pump.

On speed control pcb there are 7 outputs :

green / yellow from earth green input to fan motor.

Blue from neutral input to fan motor.

Red from active on on pcb / there is no input opposite of active on pcb. Red to speed control selector switch.

Black to pump from brown input from rotary speed selector switch.

Grey to motor low from grey input from speed control selector switch.

Orange to motor med from orange input from speed control selector switch.

Black to motor high from black input from speed control selector switch.

Capacitor is red / white. White is attached to fan motor low, before winding. Grey feeds low.

Red is attached to fan motor high before winding. Blue from pcb to thermal overload, then to connection with red from capacitor, then to high fan motor winding, opposite of black from pcb output.

You need more information on the fuse other than just the voltage if you are going to replace it....It's not likely you can repair the board unless you see something obvious...otherwise you need all the board specs and you face the rather time consuming task of testing each component and circuit....ok for just passing the time, but not a wise or reliable repair strategy...

Generally speaking, if you look inside a glass fuse and see anything other the usual straight piece of fuse element, you're looking at a slo-blo or time delay fuse.

Your best bet is to unsolder the fuse clips from the board and see if you can pry off the clips from the end caps. If you're lucky you should find some markings that identify the fuse type and its rating.

If the new fuse blows also then you know that the problem is elsewhere in the circuitry. at that point you'll need to use all your troubleshooting skills to ferret out the problem.

Thanks Ram .

The irony isn’t lost that a good observation and comment was offered by member RAMConsult.

In fact, I’m gonna throw him a GA for #5.

The fuse size you are describing is a 5 x 25mm size fuse. Littlefuse carries these.

Really can't tell based on the description whether you have a slo blow or fast blow fuse type or the current rating.

Looks like a switching power supply for the remote function and fuse is on ac to power supply. Check line rectifier diodes, filter capacitors, MOV (surge suppressor) if it has one, switching transistor, low voltage rectifiers and LV filter capacitors(very common failure in switching supplies). BTW switching supplies rectify line voltage and filter it then chop it at a high frequency to drive a very small transformer to step voltage down then rectify and regulate it. If one capacitor is bad change all in same area paying attention to temperature ratings. Switching supplies can be a nightmare to troubleshoot.

Yes for sure this is full wave diode rectifier and you need to thing how this will work with broken flter i think bad

Hi Tony,

Here's what I've found when working on electronics like this. Typically, when a fuse blows, it's from something in the circuit overheating (most times a burnt component). You may be lucky this time. Since the pump was bad, it could've caused the circuit to draw too much current so the fuse blew to protect the circuit. That would be a well engineered device.

My recommendation is to replace it with any type of fuse that is the right current rating (doesn't matter if it's regular or slow blow). If the fuse doesn't blow and you can control it through the remote, then all is well. Buy the correct fuse and you have a spare part. If the fuse blows, then you'll have to repair the circuit board. Most likely not worth your time and effort, so it would go into the scrap heap.

I know it's not a very scientific way to diagnose fuse problems, but since the cost of the board is low and it's readily available, you shouldn't spend too much time and money on the repair.

One other observation. They kept the Durango in their living room window for three years straight? Either you did one heck of a job on insulating the unit and making an insulated cover or they had a lot of warm air going out the window/unit in the wintertime.

I remove the Durango's at all of our rentals in the fall and replace them in the spring. The rentals are in Lancaster and it gets down to the mid teens on cold nights. Too much heat escaping from the unit. It takes two people to move it to the garage. I always clear the water line, so when it freezes the copper tube doesn't burst.

I do the same with my portable "rolling" air conditioner I use at my condo in Orange County. I install it in late spring and move it to the closet in the fall. The AC unit takes about 15 minutes to install - easy job, but I have to be careful so I don't break those tabs on the ducts.