Best Ways to Remove Vinyl Wallcovering?

I believe you can buy cheap scrapers that scratch the vinyl surface so allowing a wetting agent to penetrate to the wallpaper adhesive, after a while it then becomes easy (?) to remove the wallpaper as with ordinary types....

John.

THANK YOU JOHN FOR THE INFO. I WAS WONDERING IF A STEAMER WOULD WORK AND HOW MUCH A WATER PROBLEM I WOULD HAVE. THANKS AGAIN. RJK236

As John said, get a scarafier to cut the vinyl so that the water based solvent can work on the adhesive and the steamer will speed up the process. Not a lot of water on floor but enough to warrant a bucket and mop being nearby.

I WOULD LIKE TO THANK EVERYBODY FOR THEIR INFO ON REMOVING VINYL WALLCOVERING. I THINK THE WIFE AND I WILL GO WITH THE SCARAFIER OR TIGAR CLAW TOOL AND STEAMER APPLICATION. THE WALL WAS PRIMED AND PAINTED AND I MIXED SIZING IN WITH THE PAPER PASTE I BELIEVE IT SHOULD COME OFF 'OK' I HOPE. THANKS AGAIN RJK236

Assuming the best way involves not ruining the surface underneath the wallpaper, it will depend on what's under the wallpaper.

The majority of adhesives used for wallcoverings are water based and can be dissolved when exposed to moisture. The problem will be getting the moisture to the adhesive.

Your best bet is to go to your local paint/building store and pick up a Tiger Claw tool. It'll put a whole bunch of perforations in the covering allowing moisture to seep underneath. Then you could apply a steamer or even a garden sprayer filled with a solution of hot water and vinegar to the walls. Wait 5-10 minutes, reapplying to areas that soak up the moisture or appear to be drying out, then scrape scrape scrape.

If the wallcovering is adhered directly to drywall, you're screwed. The covering isn't going to come off without a fight. If you insist on removing it at this point, you'll probably need to apply a skim coat of mud. Your best option may be replacing the drywall, or covering it with 1/4" drywall.

Try the how-to or talk forums at http://www.oldhousejournal.com/ for better answers to questions like this.

Good point about drywall attached paper. If they didn't prime the walls well before papering it's a tough job. They do make a solvent that actually eats and loosens the glue. (enzymes) They do a great job, however, if you are going to reapply paper you must wash the walls several times to make sure all the glue is removed as well as the enzymes. Then prime with a good sealer several coats. If this is not done the leftover enzymes can become activated when new glue is applied. It's a terrible feeling when you have the first several sheets up and they slither off the wall by themselves. If your just painting then by all means the enzyme solution works best. As stated prior use a scarifier to allow the solution to get behind the paper.

If the vinyl is of a good quality, you should be able to peel the top vinyl coat off easily. Just peel one corner of the vinyl away and slowly peel the whole sheet off.

To remove the adhesive layer use one of recognised products for the job, or, as I do just use a nice wide brush, plenty of hot water leave for a minute or so and scrape it off with a 4" flat scraper.........easy.

I agree with peeling off the product as the best way to get to the adhesive. Thats only if you know the condition and type of wallboard. On poorly primed sheetrock I have often seen the paper peel off right down to the gypsum. For older plaster walls you could literally use a jack hammer (gingerly) !!! and remove it nicely. I'll take a good old plaster wall over sheetrock any day.

Scarifying and steaming works great, place towels down, open windows. The water is usually not much of a problem. Some folks like to use fabric softener, to pre-treat the wall, it helps somewhat. The enzyme treatment works well on most papers, have patience with it. Although some people will use white glue based products to stick down vinyl paper, which makes it slightly more difficult. Top down...