Connecting A Buzzer To My Infrared Proximity Detector?

I think its not trouble.

use a transistor at conneting and its collector connet a buzzer. ok

You might want to connect a rectifier reverse-biased across that buzzer to as to prevent the transistor from seeing large negative-going voltages, and responding poorly to them.

I seem not too understand your meaning. at output terminal is a sucssion of pulses. where is rectifier?

see this pic, is it simple?

Diode is not necessary if they use piezo buzzer.

thanks but i don't quite get what you trying to say... could you elaborate more thanks

Doesnt the $5 still explain all? cannt read the diagram?

just buy a buzzer to welding according to the graphic, it will work either level condition or pulse output condition.

Why not just use the output (yellow wire) to energize a small relay and therefore allow you to use other than supplied voltage, to energize a buzzer. This will in affect isolate the buzzer from the unit.

Hello Shiznitro,

Consider using a piezo buzzer, available worldwide from Projects Unlimited. The right & left LEDs on your sensor board will work as before, except that with this buzzer you will also have the audio indication you desire.

The buzzer is rated for operation between 1.5 v and 12 vdc, is quite loud (106 dBA @ 10 cm @ 6 vdc operating voltage), and consumes only 9 mA. As your supply voltage is 5 volts, not 6, and with a small voltage drop across the IR sensor's output transistor, the buzzer will not be quite as loud as rated, but still plenty loud.

Simply connect the buzzer's black wire to the yellow wire or, preferably, directly at the IR sensor's output pin. Connect the red wire to the +5 volt supply.

As the buzzer requires little current and has a wide voltage range, you will not need to use a relay or a transistor in the buzzer circuit; you can connect the buzzer directly. What could be simpler?

thanks but i have a buzzer already with me which i think should be able to work the same as the piezo buzzers but it just seem to get it work together with the proximity detector...

It would help a great deal, then, if you would provide the electrical specs for your buzzer. Operating voltage? Current? Electromechanical (ie, does it contain an inductor/coil)?

sorry about that... here is the spec of the SS BUZZER FLANGEMNT DC http://docs-asia.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/009f/0900766b8009f994.pdf

Your sensor board requires a 5-volt supply. Your audio indicator operates at a minimum of eight volts - and preferably at 12 volts - and draws 30 mA which I believe probably exceeds the current-handling capabilities of the IR sensor. Panasonic doesn't actually say what the current-handling ability of the part's output stage is (!), but judging from the presence of the 220-ohm resistor on the yellow output lead my guess is that the sensor can handle a 20-25 mA load. But using this particular indicator means that you will need to power it using an additional supply.

No problem in terms of building an interface circuit, but my first question would be: must you use that particular audio indicator? If you can find an alternative indicator that requires 5 volts or less and draws less than (say) 20 mA, you can save yourself the trouble of building an interface circuit (at all) and especially one that requires an additional supply. For my part, I'd opt for using a different indicator, just to keep things simple (and less expensive). But if you're stuck with using this part, let me know and we'll see what we can do.

-e

Well strangely the device was able to work together with the buzzer I must have miss some connection maybe =X Really sorry about that... Plus i also have given you the wrong specs for my buzzer it is a KS-3606 where you can find it here at the second page http://www.deltron-euroind.it/pdf/avvisatori_acustici/buzzer_da_pannello/con_driver_eletro.pdf as the website gave a wrong link for the pdf. Its operates at 4~8VDC.

Nonetheless it was not able to function as what i wanted ... when i increase the voltage both the infrared detector and the buzzer went high...what i meant is the infrared straight away detect an object when there isnt and thus making the buzzer buzz... I hope you can help me with it again ... Thanks again

sorry above was due to wrong placing of wire... the buzzer sound is very faint I have to put it very near to my ear to be able to hear its buzz... is there a way to amplify the buzz ... thanks again

Hey, no problem.

From the specs it looks like your KS-6606 (there is no KS-3606 on the data sheet) draws about 13 mA at 4.5 volts. That's 5 volts minus the collector-emitter voltage drop across the IR sensor's output transistor. I'm guessing this to be a conservative 0.5 volts, more or less. From the looks of it, you could connect the buzzer's negative lead directly to the sensor output pin and the positive lead to the +5v rail. Don't connect the negative lead to the yellow wire, as there'll be too much of a voltage drop across the 220-ohm resistor to power the buzzer.

I am somewhat puzzled by, "...when i increase the voltage both the infrared detector and the buzzer went high...what i meant is the infrared straight away detect an object when there isnt and thus making the buzzer buzz..." What voltage? Are you increasing the detector module's supply voltage to above 5 volts? It may be able to take it, but as the module is spec'd to run at 5 volts I wouldn't recommend this. But...what may be happening is that as you increase the module's supply voltage, the IR LEDs get brighter. Enough so to illuminate the IR sensor directly! The manual for the module does warn that this can happen under normal conditions, and recommends affixing black electrical tape around the sides and back of the sensor to block stray light from the IR LEDs.

Connect your buzzer as suggested, drop the power supply to 5 volts (!), block stray light from the IR LEDs and please let me know how it works out?

There is you have to scroll down there is about 5 pages in the link i gave you.

About the "...when i increase the voltage both the infrared detector and the buzzer went high...what i meant is the infrared straight away detect an object when there isnt and thus making the buzzer buzz..." i fix the problem it was wrong placing of wire so you can forget about it the thing now it functioning to what i want,

The problem now is that the buzzer sound is so faint that i have to put it near my ear to hear there is a buzz. So what i want to know now is that is there a way for me to increase the volume of the buzzer? thanks again you really have help me alot E !

Check the voltage across the buzzer leads. If it's too low, then the sensor's output transistor probably can't handle the current. It wouldn't be a bad idea to connect the buzzer directly across the 5-volt supply just to see if it works properly at that voltage. If your multimeter can measure current, do so with the buzzer across the 5-volt supply and again when it is connected to the sensor's output pin. My hunch is that the buzzer is loading the circuit way too much. According to the specs, this may very well be what's happening. The thing draws 50 mA at 3 volts! Yikes! Bet the KS-6606 would work better, as it draws much less current. Can you use a different buzzer? That one I mentioned from Projects Unlimited is very loud and draws only 9 mA. They're pretty inexpensive, too, and you may even be able to get an engineering sample of one free of charge.

Well after measuring with my multimeter the results were :

voltage across the buzzer = 4.54V

yes the buzzer work properly with a direct voltage of 5-volt [ very loud ] was able to hear the buzzer when it was at 2-volt.

"If your multimeter can measure current, do so with the buzzer across the 5-volt supply and again when it is connected to the sensor's output pin".... i got a similiar current value of 7.6 mA

so now im quite puzzled why it doesnt buzz like when it was connected directly with a 5-volt across it :(

The buzzer drew 7.6 mA when connected through the ammeter across the 5 V supply (assuming the 5 V supply output voltage really is five volts?) and 7.6 mA again with 4.54 V across the buzzer connected to the module through the ammeter? You need to make both current and voltage measurements simultaneously - implying you'll need a second multimeter to do this - otherwise you are changing the measurement conditions between measurements.

Hello shiznitro,

Sorry my last post sounded a bit abrupt. I was interrupted by something that came up and had to rush to finish my post.

I'm puzzled by your results, but if you make both the current and voltage measurements simultaneously, it may shed some light as to why you're getting these puzzling results. Also, if you have an oscilloscope, look at the voltage across the buzzer while it is connected to the module. At 4.54 V across the buzzer, it should be quite loud. Why it isn't is a mystery, especially in light of the fact that it is very loud when across the 5 V supply and still audible at 2 V. I'm also puzzled by the low current draw. This thing is spec'd to draw 50 mA at rated voltage, and yet it draws only 7 or so milliamps. Hope you don't mind going through these exercises, when all you really want is a working audio indicator for your module.

Hello europium,

Sorry for the late reply, was busy during the weekends. Anyways i have followed your instructions and i found that the current still remain the same. However the voltage value drop to 39.4mV i think this is why my buzzer isn't loud :(

Is there away to solve this problem cause i want to learn rather than having a easy way out by getting the piezo buzzer, i like to troubleshoot =D Sorry to trouble you and thanks again.

Hello shiznitro,

No trouble at all! Here's a schematic that will turn on your buzzer when the output of the photodetector is low. It's a simple double-inverter that you can build and test on a protoboard.

(Note: I don't have a general-purpose buzzer symbol in my CAD library. The symbol shown below is that of a bare piezo speaker which, in practice, won't produce more than a click when the power is applied. Ignore the nature of the symbol and substitute your buzzer in this part of the circuit, positive lead to +5V.)

You can connect the circuit input to your module's yellow lead. It doesn't have to be connected directly to the photosensor directly. This will allow you to connect the buzzer circuit to the module without modifying the module itself in any way. The circuit will also let you use a buzzer rated at a higher voltage, (say) one rated for 12V operation, in which case you'll supply the driver circuit (shown) with that supply. In the case of two power supplies (one for the buzzer and the driver circuit), they will need to share a common ground. The driver circuit here is shown as also being powered by the 5V supply.

The transistors can be general-purpose 2N3904 or equivalent. Resistors are all 10k, 1/4 watt:

Let me know if this works out!

Take care,
-e

Hello Guru Europium,

After following your latest instruction my buzzer works exactly as it should and it buzz as loud as when it is through a direct connection of 5volts across it .

Im really thankful for your guidance and patience.Thanks again!

One more thing may i know what software you use for the schematic ?

Thanks again and enjoy your day ^_^

-shiznitro

Great! Glad to be of help! And thanks for your patience, Mr. Shiznitro. It took me long enough to finally get to the point, non?

Here's a link to KB6NU's webpage listing several freeware or shareware schematic-capture programs for Windows and Macs. The one I used to draw your schematic is DesignWorks Lite, demo version (free for 30 days after which you can pay $40 USD for the unlocked version if you want).

Take care,
-e

Hello Shiznitro,

Here's the same schematic, except that the buzzer is replaced by a relay. If the situation arises where you would like to use the circuit to drive an inductive load (the relay coil, for example) you will need to include a so-called "flywheel diode" (shown here as a 1N4001 diode) across the coil to keep from frying your output transistor. If you were to use an electromechanical buzzer instead of your piezo indicator, the same thing would apply: you will need that diode in the circuit to protect the output transistor.

When the current through an inductive load is interrupted, the magnetic field in the inductor collapses and induces a voltage across the inductor's terminals. The current in an inductor wants to keep flowing - it resists change - and so it will cause the voltage across the inductor to increase in order to maintain that current flow which, of course, won't happen if the transistor is turned off. This voltage that appears across the inductor can toast the transistor if it becomes high enough.

The diode shown here allows that current to loop back through the diode until the current is dissipated by the resistance of the coil windings. Hence the transistor doesn't see a thing and everyone stays happy.

If you use your circuit with a relay, you can switch heavier loads, AC loads (like a light bulb or an AC motor - or an even bigger relay, like a contactor) and so forth easily. This driver circuit can drive things besides buzzers, should some of your designs require it and so long as the current through the transistor is kept within its safe operating limits.

Here is the revised schematic:

Take care,
-e

Hello Europium,

Thanks again didn't realised that you would come here again after solving my problem... Yet you come and help me further to make me able to use for other purposes :D im really impressed and grateful to have come across this great forum meeting people like you. TWO THUMBS UP FOR YOU!!!

Again thank you. Take care

Sign

Shiznitro

Thanks, Shiznitro.

God bless,
-e

Hmm is there a way for me to reversed the process of detection whereby instead of it buzzing when there is an obstacles, it will buzz when there is nothing for eg... if i would open the door the buzzer will buzz and it will off when the door is close ?

Shiznitro, with my apologies to Europium for stealing his schematic, you can easily "reverse the logic" of the circuit by removing the first inversion. The red line is a new connection, and the black X's are what you need to disconnect.

Note to Europium: I think you need to change the word "Immortality" in your signature to "notoriety". I can think of many times that "spectacular error" has pointed out ones mortality.

thanks tdesmit, i don't think he would mind :)

I am not sure what functions your are looking for but I wanted to detect the motion of animals (Deer) in my yard at home.

I found a IR motion dector that works with a remote-wire-less reciever that sounds an alarm when motion is detected.

Try the following webpage where you can order it:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93068

I am an electronic engineer but I could not reinvent this wheel and build it any cheaper.

Hope this helps

Have fun and good luck