Tandem Breakers

Thanks Lyn. Good info!

Don

GA from me old man! The first link I found especially informative. Thanks Pal!

I would bring the electrical up to code... in a house that old no telling what's been done...Here 150 amp panel is minimum, and a main breaker is required next to the meter...This external main is for safety, in case of fire the firemen can cut the power to the house...I always check breaker operating temperatures with my IR heat gun...this identifies any bad connections or overloaded circuits...

As for tandem breakers, while I don't care for them personally, my house panel is chock full of them. (My home, built in '89/'90, 150A service. Siemens panel and breakers.) Outside of a shared neutral kitchen circuit, a 20A SP breaker for the clothes washer, and a 20A SP for the garage workshop, every branch circuit is on 20A tandem breakers. I have lived in the house since new and have never had any issues with heat in the panel.

The Surveyor will indicate whether or not there is a cause for concern in the Report that might accompany the decision to buy.

If in doubt, consult a qualified local Electrician to carry out a detailed inspection.

I forgot to address the lack of a Main Breaker. That would be illegal. The main disconnect must be there somewhere, it doesn’t need to actually be IN the panel, it can be ahead of it. Are you sure there isn’t a main breaker outside underneath the meter behind a lift-up panel? That’s a common way of doing it in some areas.

The only other possibility is that when originally installed, there were only 6 breakers in the entire panel, in which case it falls under what’s called the “six hand rule”, meaning a firefighter can kill all power in the building with no more than 6 movements of his hand, hence 6 breakers maximum. If someone added circuits later by using twins, that became a violation and a Main would need to be added.

Are you referring to the picture in my post or the OP? If my post, no worries. My main disconnect is a 150A CB, outside next to the meter box. Technically making my main panel, a sub panel. Notice the segregated neutral and ground buss bars.

I was addressing that to the OP.

Thanks to everyone for the helpful comments. I'll be much better armed for the inspection. I'll be meeting the inspector, with my real estate agent, tomorrow.

Don

Everything can be "brought up to code", i.e. improved so as to align with current installation best practice as determined by Standard. It is whether or not the improvement is worthwhile that is the issue, with items of primary safety concern being at the top of the improvements list. In the UK, regulations are not retrospective, and plenty of installations exist that do not comply with current code. However, it would be inappropriate to carry out new installations that are not up to current codes.

Best to review the inspection report afterwards, and carry out a "value judgement".

My suggestion is to upgrade the electrical system by having a qualified electrician install a 6 main-lug-only combination meter base/panel on the outside,below the current meter location.

Feed the inside panel from one of the the outside breakers,and move all 240volt loads to the outside panel breakers, such as electric range,water heater,electric dryer, and Central Air/heat Pumps/heat strips.

This will unload the major loads from the old inside panel, leaving only receptacles and lighting loads on the old panel,and eliminate the need for tandem breakers.

Remember to separate the Neutral(Grounded) and Equipment(Grounding) grounds in the inside panel since it is now a sub-fed panel.

Factor this expense in when negotiating a price.

Thanks for the advice. I met the inspector at the house. He said the existing, old panel (125 amp) allows the top breakers to be used as the main breaker, if wired properly, which it was not.

I'm simply asking for the replacement to an up to date panel (200 amp) which can properly carry the load.

Thanks again,

Don