Rustoleum Epoxy Floor Paint

Call Rustoleum and ask them! They should have a technical support group for just those types of questions.

By this time the Thompson's product is probably largely gone. Use your standard 5% muriatic to etchand put down the epoxy as directed. I personally prefer the Devoe product, but have used method without failure dozens of times.

You have a big problem, possibly not soluble. The silicone will have soaked into the cement and the only way to remove it is to abrade it away with a stiff rotary wire brush on a floor sander. This will skin off 1/16" and might get below the silicone. You may have to go to 1/8"?? In any event, this new surface will have enough porosity thatb the epoxy will wet it and interlock with the floor grains. Use two coats and you must lightly sand the first coat before the second goes on.

Epoxy maker might offer a special product?

Thanks to all for the answers. I'm still working on it and will continue until I get a floor that has a fine grain feel to it.

Thanks again.

If you can sprinkle water on the concrete floor and it soaks into the concrete rather than beading up should be okay to paint.

There are several alternatives listed in these posts. Why dont you pick out an area of the garage floor and run a simple trial comparing the methods? Then use the easiest one that works to do the whole floor.

I have been trying different things. Rust-oleum recommened not using Muratic acid. Tomorrow I am going to sanding with a rented sander. I was going to rent a concrete grinder, but they said it took four men to lift it. I hope the sander ( with a rough pad) gets it, because there are still several spots that are as smooth as silk and water beads up. Rust-oleum recommended the concrete grinder, but then I couldn't do it. I tried Quikrete Bond*Lok. Lowes said it would work. Down in the fine print 1/2 into the instructions, it states "The concrete may have been previously sealed preventing the Bond*Lok from working" I got fizzing when applied but the area was still smooth when I rinsed and dried.

After I use the sanding machine I am going to apply the cleaning solution that came with the Rust-Oleum Gray Epoxy Kit as directed and then go for it. I do plan on mixing the two gallons of paint to gether and then pouring them back into their respective cans and mixing the epoxy on gallon at the time. I understand that the paint might flake off in these places where it is not rough where the paint doesn't stick. I might put a pad over this area initially after the paint is dry to protect it from traffic for a few weeks. The areas are not in the area where the cars park.

Thanks again for all the suggestions.

That Thompsons sealer was put on 20 years ago and still some places are smooth but most are not.

I would never recommend using any type of concrete sealer on a concrete floor. There are some good stains for concrete that won't work if the concrete is sealed.

I'm afraid you may need the diamond grinder to break through the sealer. If after sanding the water still beads, it will require more abrasive treatment.

My neighbor coated his floor sealed with 5 years old Thompsons and the epoxy is peeling. He sanded -no acid etch. However, another person coated his Thompsons floor after an acid etch followed by a 10-1 ammonia neutralize. His coating is still sticking very nice after 3 years.