Removing of moisture into refrigeration system.

Peristaltic pump? Gravity? Some sort of air pre-conditioning to dry it ?

By gravity method is not possible because of underground piping. If pre -conditioning it may takes a longer time that might develop rusts on its surface. Peristaltic pump is new to me. Please give more info about this. Thank you.

Peristaltic pump works by a rotor squeezing a tube (usually silicone, thermoplastic or rubber). They come in many sizes from say 100ml/miniute upto 1L/min for the ones my company makes , upto many litres a minute.

Google it, or try companies lke Chemical controls, watson marlow or such like.

This type of pump is commonly use for removing condensate from freezer cabinets aircon systems etc.

Globalspec should have plenty of links....

Del

Depending on the volume and air circulation , there is one application where a metal pan was mounted on top of the compressor, the drainage would go into the pan, the water was heated up by the normal compressor heat and evaporated. The addition of a fan could speed up the process.

I have used dessicant filter/dryers on industrial units to remove moisture while the system was in operation. I install a permanent shell with isolation valves, and an in-line moisture indicator. When the indicator changes color to indicate the desiccant is depleted, simply isolate the shell and replace the core.

Parker Hannefin makes just about anything you could want in that arena. You can find their catalog here.

Pwr2thepeople had a very sensible reply. Other comments made me wonder if I understood your question. Are you being plagued with moisture getting into your refrigeration system? If so his is best answer, however, if it is REALLY "wet", running a vacuum pump a looooong time might not be enough. Moisture stays hidden in oils and motor windings etc.

If you've been running it, clean it out, and even suck out the sump oil if possible. Put in new oil. Evacuate it 3 or 4 times and put nitrogen in between pump-downs. The next to last pump down, put in drum pressure refrigerant and pull that out, then do your final evacuation and a really deep one too, then charge ( along with the big desiccant driers.)

If you're talking about a low pressure system that normally runs in a vacuum, then you've got seal leaks to take care of. Running it with moisture will kill the bearings and foster growth of acid.

"Hi friends, We are facing a big difficulties of removing moisture or water from the refrigeration system. Is there any faster way of removing it by aside of using vacuum pump?"

Heat the entire system, increasing the temperature of the system to speed evaporation and out-gassing of the surfaces. Install a dryer cartridge before recharging system. Is your vacuum pump adequate for the size system?

I'm a little puzzled by your moisture problem. Is it a continuing problem? Usually the moisture is introduced when the refrigeration system is opened and closed without the proper purging of the air that entered the system. Normal procedure is to evacuate the system, check for leaks, then recharge the system. Moisture is removed when the system is evacuated. Any residual moisture is removed by the dryer installed in the liquid line. Most refrigerants operate above atmospheric pressure, therefore leaks are "out" and not "in". In the older R-11 refrigerant systems which operated below atmospheric pressure on the suction side it was not uncommon for leaks to appear. But the problem was a loss in capacity rather than moisture. A vacuum pump was used to lower the pressure in order to regain capacity. If you are truly having a moisture problem in the refrigeration system, you need to fix the system.

Do a triple evacuation and use heat lamps. make sure you get down to 500 microns on 3rd evacuation. After you have been down to 500 microns for about 30 minutes, the vacuum should hold and not go up more then 600 microns. If it keeps going up , you probably have a leak then you must find and repair. lastly, you need to install a new drier.

Ah I see the (my) confusion...

Is the moisture in the at which is being refridgerated or

That which is doing the refridgeration?

E>g With a domestic fridge..is it in the cabinet or the pump/refridgerant system...?

Sorry if I'm thick...

Del

Thanks a lot dear friends for all your comments, its all very fruitful for me your suggestions. I appreciate all your ideas. Thanks. God bless you all.

THE PROPER WAY TO REMOVE MOISTURE FROM A REFRIGERATION SYSTEM IS TO "SWEEP" THE SYSTEM WITH NITROGEN. THIS GAS WILL PICK-UP MOISTURE AND ALLOW IT TO BE REMOVED. EVACUATE ALL FREON AND PUT SYSTEM IN A VACUUM. INTRODUCE NITROGEN INTO THE SYSTEM, LET SYSTEM EQUALIZE AT APPROX 100 PSI.( CAUTION MUST BE USED, NITROGEN IS A HIGH PRESSURE GAS AND A REGULATOR MUST BE USED). EVACUATE SYSTEM, R&R DRYER. FOR EXESSIVE MOISTURE THIS MAY HAVE TO BE REPEATED. RECHARGE SYSTEM WITH PROPER TYPE FREON. BE SURE TO CHECK OPERATION, MOISTURE CAN CAUSE VALVES, ETC TO STICK OR NOT OPERATE PROPERLY.

ok.. but no need to SHOUT !

Thanks for pointing out forum etiquete...

Im having same problem with moisture in the system. I'm working on a 50 ton chiller which had frove up and ruptured the plate and tube evaporator. the refrigerant (R-22) leaked out and then the water which is at approx 30 psi was forced into the leak and filled the refrig. system with water. I have drained 20 gallons of water out of it and there is many more gallons trapped in low spots, this system has an air cooled condensor. I have used CF-20 in the past for cleaning burnt systems but don't know how well it will work with moisture. If anybody has any suggestions I would appreciate it.

How much time do you have for the repair? Vacuum pumps remove moisture by lowering the normal sea level boiling point of water at 212 degrees to below 70 degrees when at a much lower pressure that atmospheric. This will take mucho time to boil off that much water and remember that the water is not pure - ie it will leave behind the disolved solids that were in the water which will require many refrigeration filter changes once the system is backup and running. Best to drain at the low spots if possible (drill small holes in the copper pipe low points and silphos them up afterwards). Be prepared for lots of vacuum pump oil changes (it will quickly turn cloudy white from moisture) - opening the gas ballast on the pump will help the oil to last much longer but once it is contaminated change it immediately as it provides lubrication for the rotary vane pump head. Change the vacuum pump oil after the last use as well. Also be sure to change out the refrigeration compressor oil just before the last evacuation.