LED Wings Project

It's all very vague and confusing....let's begin at the beginning....what you are building here is a motion activated light switch( my best guess)...Is that so? And the problem is it doesn't work...? but it looks like it is to control many things, very large and complicated looking....So clarify, what is this device meant to do?

https://nerdtechy.com/best-motion-sensor-light-switch-outlets

I made a single answer to all the issues so far.

I am not permitted to delete my post.

I am not permitted to edit my post.

I wanted to delete this answer here because I made a single answer to all the issues so far.

Is the ~50cm an aerial?

I don't see any decoupling caps on the power supply, like the 2.2µF shown here

Of course they should be scattered all over the circuit.

I don't know what the circuit is supposed to do, but I can imagine a 50 cm piece of wire connected to the insulated gate of the FET can pick up enough noise to turn it on.

The circuit becomes an electromagnetic field detector.

One should not be surprised if it picks up "mains hum", then...

thats why im using a metal sheet shield grounded to prevent mains interference.

Thank you mister Rixter for continuing the discussion.

Your thought may be a salvation thought ! You are very right, copper is way more better conductor than mild steel that im using right now in my shield.

"would this sheet metal be ferrous (iron, steel, mu-metal etc)?"

-Yes the shield im using is mild steel.

"Current flowing through a wire creates a magnetic field encircling the wire which is not blocked by a non-ferrous shield such as copper or aluminum."
- Now that im reading it more carefully, is NOT blocked by copper or aluminium? I was planning to use a copper board instead of this mild steel one. I dont have such big one but i have something large enough.

Im happy that you come in and give an awesome answer.

I never thought on the theremin circuit. What a great idea !!!

I will definitely check that out.

Thank you !
In the meanwhile, I resolved the problem I had.

Mister redfred ,please check my latest update in the end of the page #21 . Its a bit longer movie. But you are right, it does change its properties in room location. I did not thought it would. Now I learned a lesson.

Looks better when it's working....

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_ROxTeqmkHpe0j_mmmelCw

ok you need a test meter to begin with so you can troubleshoot the circuits....

https://comspacex.wordpress.com/2017/12/31/electric-field-detector/

https://www.eddybergman.com/2019/05/electro-magnetic-field-detector.html

I suspect one of your components has failed...so you need to test them...make sure the components you're using can handle the current involved...

....or it's possible the sensitivity is set too high....which might also be a component failure...

It might be the 220v circuit is creating an EM field that is overloading, or saturating the antenna and overloading the sensitivity of the circuit....If you disconnect the 220v will it work? ...Is it supposed to work that if the hand gets close enough to light all of the LED's then the light switch is activated?

To mister SolarEagle; Thank you for your extensive answer so far ! I was sleeping and I could not respond very quickly to you.

"what you are building here is a motion activated light switch( my best guess)...Is that so?"

- Yes it is. It has a motion sensing circuit module.

"And the problem is it doesn't work...?"

- Yes, it does not function properly, meaning it stays activated , stay ON, all the time. The sensing circuit get interfered with the mains 220Vac 50Hz from the wall, behind the circuit. On the testing table is working as it should, but not on the final and intentional mounting location.

"but it looks like it is to control many things, very large and complicated looking....So clarify, what is this device meant to do?"

-Well, it is looking complicated, I agree, but when we are splitting it into modules, every module doing its thing, then it will look very logical and simple to understand. So, the modules are:

sensing circuit
led wings circuit
signal amplifier module
power module
latching circuit
and relay wiring stage.

All these circuits are basic circuits for each central component they serve. For example, led wings circuit is LM3914 basic circuit but I only added all those leds in a bit more strange configuration, but if you shave all those leds and leave only 10 for each pin, it will look more simple to understand. It is the circuit from its datasheet, nothing more. And the same goes for each other module there. Basically, if you concentrate on modules themselves, it will be very easy to understand.

But I get from all your answers that you already understand this thing already. Correct? If you need any further clarification, I will explain in the greatest detail to you.

"ok you need a test meter to begin with so you can troubleshoot the circuits...."

Yah, I dont have too much test equipment, that is true and they are costing money that I can not produce. SO, we have to figure this out a bit empirical. Sorry for that but it is what it is.

"I suspect one of your components has failed...so you need to test them...make sure the components you're using can handle the current involved...

....or it's possible the sensitivity is set too high....which might also be a component failure...

It might be the 220v circuit is creating an EM field that is overloading, or saturating the antenna and overloading the sensitivity of the circuit....If you disconnect the 220v will it work? ...Is it supposed to work that if the hand gets close enough to light all of the LED's then the light switch is activated?

"

Nothing is failed, nothing is too high.

The circuit is fine and I had the exact same problem like you have right now, when I was building the circuit. My working table is made from mild steel, and the same effect you see happening right now, it was happening back then. Some very good people helped me deal with this issue on another forum and the problem was that the table was ungrounded. I did not had any ground wire in any extension cord (6) in my room, so I had to link the ground wire to any of them until I reach my table that I link it also to ground at the end. The circuit worked flawlessly after that.

- Thank you for digging it deeper !!!! and find out the working circuit. I was planning posting it too for more clarification.

To mister Randall
"Is the ~50cm an aerial?"

and Rixter

" I can imagine a 50 cm piece of wire connected to the insulated gate of the FET can pick up enough noise to turn it on "

- Yes its an antenna (0.25mm diam copper) and is suppose to be in air, but I link it to the board itself, now is "on board". Here is a shot of it and I marked with red its length and its shape:

Now, back to my problem:

What I need to shield this circuit from the mains 220Vac 50Hz from the wall, behind the circuit ? This is the stage I am right now in all this building process.
- Thank you all for all your kind answers so far !

You could try a grounded aluminum plate behind the circuit board, or possibly shortening the antenna...The grounded plate would have to cover the antenna area with possibly a 2" margin all around...It's also possible the antenna is getting feedback from the LED circuit itself...I would experiment with moving the antenna around...

Why I am getting this error if Im trying to edit my post?

People need to edit stuff ! Especially me that i am not that good with english. Not native, I am doing mistakes that are misleading the idea I want to express.
I get this retarded error if im trying to edit a previous post:

This is not cool !

You only get 15 min to edit your posts...then you're locked in...

Why does my post gets removed?

I managed to bo back and find the comments I wrote and bring them back here. I hope they will not get deleted this time as well. If so, then is clear.

Excellent drawing SolarEagle ! I'm not kidding, I like that you put interest in it! You are super.
"It's also possible the antenna is getting feedback from the LED circuit itself"
I did all the testings so far possible and push it bit by bit. I started this project some months ago, I worked very slowly at it, since there were some technical problems to resolve and I did what I could do best with the tools I have at my disposal. So, even I did not think on the interference with the leds (too much), I overcome it in testing phase already. Trust me, its not the circuit fault at this point, but its an interference with the wall main live wires. I am very sure of it.
I do like your tester for live wire, that you post earlier. I should definitely build one to more precisely track the wires through cement.
My final plan is to break the wall, expose the live wires and shield them with a metal foil grounded. But that is final solution, that I am not super sure it will totally work, I'll have to test that as well, separately; and i am not that happy to work on that wall at all. It's an extreme idea if nothing else works. Until this extreme stage, I want to give all my best on other modalities of shielding the wall.
I will try it with a larger metal sheet as you both (you and another friend) propose.
Ok, said and done, I did put a new shield, also grounded, behind the board.
With a space between circuit and shield, see the leds are dimmer. (working a bit better now)
Scotched to the shield, the leds are brighter (not working that well)

In a couple of minutes I will put you a video link as well.

Aha! progress!....yes let's see a video...shielding would probably work better with high humidity environment...what is your current relative humidity? Although it might not work as well because the person might become grounded reducing the EM field....sort of a catch-22 situation, but that is just speculation....static electricity thrives in a low humidity environment....more experimentation is called for...

Proprietary devices, fully tested and locally regulation-compliant, are available from most home DIY stores. It seems a bit pointless to duplicate the design effort when one can readily purchase something that works - unless the exercise is a teaching aid, in which case one might dismantle a proprietary item and study it, perhaps.

I am kept outside of this forum for some reason.All my other posts are simply deleted! I can not post when I want on it. I can not edit when I want on it.

So expect less activity from me in this case. It is fine with me.

Here is the proof after I write all the comments and after I click to post, I get this message. That was some hours ago.

It seems someone does not like my posts. Again, it is fine for me, but really, what an attitude! (from this website staff is my best guess).

I did managed to find a solution to the problem I had, Now is working ok on the wall, but still with some trouble from other side of the circuit this time. I am almost done with it.
Thank you anyway, especially to mister SolarEagle here !

The message you are receiving is a software glitch that shows up now and then for everybody....it is not intentional.....if you have violated any rules the administration would have warned you, they do not delete posts unless they are spam, or are offensive...sorry for the inconvenience, but this is the world we live in....

Thank you for your answer. I write a long text and put some quite high resolution images inside it. The page was struggling loading those images. It was my clue that the website may not support higher rez. Then It got deleted. It was all on the subject, nothing outside of it.

Then I thought maybe the website is not admitting too much high rez on images, so I made another answer with only the 3 images in it, but at lower rezolution this time. Very manageable, around 300kb per image. Absolutly no text in it, only the images.Then It got deleted. It had no reason to delete it this time.

How I can tell someone delete it and it was not automatic? Because an automatic thing would made it much more faster than my refresh button and after checking it after 10 minutes. It was mean and dark intention behind it.

After I figure out I can "Back" the page to reach the long text, I made another answer and paste the long text in it.

Immediately after, I got that shitty message, while trying to add a reply to someone that just write here. Not mean and dark at all. Very bad attitude ! Shame on you (who did this). Very bad first impression.

Though Im not here to criticize the experience on this website, I got knocked on my ass by it for no reason. And I take it very personally as well. Especially not being able to post or edit when I wish. It's just childish mentality. Very bad website management and implementation. Im sorry to say it, but is true. I really don't like it. If nobody is saying it, nobody will think is a problem. Especially for someone new like me.

Wow you are assuming a lot...nobody is attacking you or deleting your posts or keeping you from posting, you have not broken any rules....make sure your images are in an acceptable format, either jpg or bmp...the size and resolution is adjusted to what fits on the page, you can post any size...Not a good idea to come on here and start accusing people of something and criticizing the site, you are raging against a phantom in your mind that doesn't exist...It takes some time to learn how the format here works...

What I had to say, I said it, and is part of my experience and how I perceive it. Believe it or not, is up to you. I got very upset, that's all, and I had to tell about it. Now I am fine since nothing happened since then and I hope nothing will in the future. What you must understand is that i am for the first time here and there are some rules or order of things that are a bit... not normal for me, but is also part of me adapting to them, I admit. Don't take me as I am presuming too much, im only saying out loud exactly what I am thinking, unfortunately upsetting for some people, I admit. :) heh Let's put this conversation behind us, since really is not my intention to criticize or to take on something most probably I am not that familiar enough with yet.

Update: I resolved the original problem but I got into another one.

Watch the movie and say what you think. (The movie is a bit longer)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u5M07m9B63U

Thank you for watching and for your help.

The antenna cannot be in contact with the cardboard....

"

The antenna cannot be in contact with the cardboard....

"

Why? Because the cardboard presents some weird conductivity? Or because is too close to the metal shield behind the cardboard, maybe?
At this time it is how it is, but I am thinking to make it on a electronic (plexiglass) board... in perspective. For awhile I will keep it like this.
Mister redfred is right, this is waaaaay to sensitive and out of control. And his suggestion with theremin circuit is VERY appealing to me, and I might try it. But that will be an upgrade. I must finish this one as bad as it is right now. It will work !
See if you can think on another [signal amplifier module] that is giving me trouble right now.

Thank you !

The static electricity is on the cardboard as you can see it amplified when you touch it...once it discharges the circuit calms down...you could ground the cardboard I guess...but it just seems easier to just have a space between the antenna and the surface of the cardboard...the plexiglass is not likely to change anything...

Static electricity on the cardboard, I'll have to check it and test it further.

It is a good point, thank you.

I touched the cardboard to the metal shield and it got grounded as well. I think when it touches, the entire circuit gets a bit worse. I am thinking of adding a layer of isolation between the cardboard and the metal shield.
I can not edit my previeous post, so I write plexiglass, but I was thinking fiberglass- the electronic boards are made of. Completely my mistake. See why is good to have the edit option on all the time? Because errors happens !

Just post a correction....there is no post limit that I am aware of...

<...ground the cardboard...>

It is not possible to do this with an insulator.

A few unconnected comments some of which are replies to other posts but I don't think it's worth making several posts.

Most engineers will disagree with me, but, really cheap digital multimeters are much better value for money than the "quality" ones. Something like

Or a shirt pocket one like

Or slightly better

For nearly all debugging problems better resolution is far more useful than absolute accuracy (or temperature stability). If it breaks get a new one, but, it's probably the function selection switch so there is a good chance you can repair it: I have two, one large with lots of functions (diode, hfe, capacitance etc.) and one basic shirt pocket unit, which were both the cheapest on the market over thirty years (so a lot cheaper now). They were both used extensively whilst I was still at work.

You didn't respond to my comment about decoupling capacitors. I don't see any on the circuit diagram: of course I realise that you may have put them on the actual hardware.

With reference to the amplifier:

I'm not sure why you need an optocoupler in there, the two isolated circuits are both running from the same 0 and 5V supply. I haven't looked at the LED driver in detail, but, could you use one of the unused outputs in some way as the input to the amplifier.

There is no negative feedback in the amplifier so the gain is entirely dependent on the transfer ratio of the opto. and the raw Hfe of the darlinton (huge).

In this circuit

R3 is the negative feedback which sets the gain of the darlinton stage. (Incidentally I drew the above using the free analogue simulator LTspice. You might find it useful.)

Just a thought: what about an IR (Infra Red) sensor to replace the Aerial.

Thank you for your comment !

"You didn't respond to my comment about decoupling capacitors"

Indeed I did not responded to you, sorry for that. But I dont know where to put them and what values to use.

"I'm not sure why you need an optocuplor in there"

Well, its simple, because the signal is super weak from the parallel leds line to the 10'th pin of the LM3914 and then from that to other output towards the relay. I tried with pnp, npn, then I got the idea to insert the optocuplor and I treat it just as another led on that 10 pin. When that will "glow" will open the optocuplor transistor. Next, on the output of the optocouplor , I originally put a simple transistor and it give me a weak signal... so the next idea was to put the darlington, and this configuration made the relay alive. But I did it experimentally.
"could you use one of the unused outputs in some way as the input to the amplifier."

- If you refer to the pin 1 to 10 for the leds, then all are used, all 10.

"R3 is the negative feedback which sets the gain of the darlinton stage."

Thank you, this is very helpful. I will try it.

"Just a thought: what about an IR (Infra Red) sensor to replace the Aerial."

- Well, you are not very far away of my thoughts. My plan is already to use a remote control , a very basic one, that I already discussed it and I wait some components 2 to 6 months to arrive from ebay. I have 4 options for it to try.
But you are refering to change the sensing circuit with a light activated circuit (IR light in your case). It is not a bad idea, Im saying that because it didnt occur to me. But I did something similar just before this sensing circuit, and I have it work for 1year I think. This led wings is an upgrade to that; well, still have it now. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HrHnq4jftw&list=UU_ROxTeqmkHpe0j_mmmelCw&index=16

If you have something else in mind with the IR, then Im all ears.

Decoupling capacitors smooth out power supply rails. They need to be connected between the 5V and 0V rails. One bulk decoupler (say 22µF) where the 5V enters the circuit board; the 2.2µF for the LED driver, and, one 1µF as close to each other sub circuit.

I was thinking of an IR heat sensor rather than a light sensor. You know the PIRs they use on front door lights that come on when someone approaches.

Although this one

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/amphenol-advanced-sensors/ZTP-115/446799

is described as a surface temperature measuring device it has "occupancy detection" listed in it's applications. A bit more research needed there I think.

Oh, I call them filter capacitors and usually are electrolytic ones. I didnt integrate them at all. I should I guess. But i don't think they influence at all this error I have.

From my knowledge, PIR (temperature sensors) have a very complicated circuit behind them to properly function. All I want is a quick and dirty, small and fun circuit to do its job. I also get your point with being linear. I had already did all the testings and my mosfet is not perfect but is doing its job... good enough.

- I am keeping out of seeing the content of the replies. I can see I got replies but without the text inside it. Its like an empty window with only the name of the guy who commented on top. Im not sure if they even are any comments. It's weird. It is fine with me.

- Any way, I really enjoyed the conversation with all of you guys here. It was a real pleasure to talk with smart people and an inspiration even. I wish you the best in everything and don't change, remain cool and awesome as much as you can.

Peace, I'm out.

It appears that I can see some replies after all. I just received one from mister @Rixter. I was very sure the forum is making weird stuff. Thank you mister Rixter for continuing the discussion, despite my troubles with the forum. I want to believe i am not used to this forum and thats why I perceive weird stuff from it.

Now, Update: I cut a piece of metal sheet (shield) at the board dimensions. Scotched the board to the shield. Put it on the wall, and the sensitivity antenna got a bit more higher than when I put the full 1 meter shield, but I adjusted down so its no problem anymore with this part. As mister Rixter mentioned, the metal sheet is mild steel (good conductor) and not copper, which is a (Very good conductor).
The problem now is the [signal amplifier module] (opto + darlington module). I managed to burn another darlington. I was on the table, and I was checking it. When I touched the antena, I think, It just got super hot, and the power supply got to 700mA high just like that. I actually left it to see if its burning out, but it just stay hot and all the circuit stay ON all the time. What a disaster circuit I built here. I change it and all got to normal again.
I put it on the wall and is all trembling and bzzzing all the time, not switching correctly at all, the range is too little. The shield is grounded all the time so Im doing it corectly from this side. My impression is that the 50Hz interference is not only in the antena or the sensing circuit, but in ALL the board, to each module. I was touching the 555 in the latching circuit (on the plastic case) and then the condenser there, and all the leds reacted as I had touched the antena itself. It should not do that at all.
Im starting to get very tired of it. I cant figure out why on the table is working perfectly, and on the wall is all vibrating and not doing what I want. I manage for a very short time to make it behave as on the table , but on the wall; and after I touched its antena, it got crazy again. Its way too sensitive.
Options I'm thinking at this point:
1- to find another way to build the [signal amplifier module] - not to burn anymore darlingtons.
2- probably find another more efficient way of shielding
3- just call it done as it is now,not working as I intention, and thats it. I push it until this point, im proud of it even if it didnt work as I plan. It worked on the table, so that counts as success.
4- the theremin circuit. Is a very good idea, but is having a hell of a circuit by itself. Its a capacitive sensor so it should not get as much interference from the mains 50Hz as this one does. I think ... but Im speculating.

It just occur to me: is it possible that the 50hz to affect the gate of transistors? And in response, the relay will tremble and bzzzing all the time? Or... 50Hz to affect directly the relay perhaps? I dont believe it, but if it is? Or the darlington or even the 555 in the latching circuit? Or all of them a little bit and summed up will be an amplified effect? It might be. Better shield is the answer.

An update on how it looks right now :
Notice the metal shield behind the cardboard, cut to dimension.

An update:

I managed to eliminate the trembling of the relay, by building another module for the [amplifier signal].

I mounted on the wall and is working.
BUT... is working when the wires for the 220V are NOT connected to the last relay (relay 2) output.

If I connect the wires to 220V, the entire circuit just freezes to ON state for everything. Every led is lit.
This stage I never being able to reach. This is the first time Im encountering this problem.
Here in the drawing I put a light bulb but in reality is the 220V switch on the wall.

One solution that more people I asked this question give me, was to move the relay inside the hole socket for the light switch. It's a very good idea, and I will do it in the end. But I want an alternative.

My question right now is:

- How to shield the live wires ?
Tell me straight. Those wires can not be shielded at all ?

A video update. Nothing is said there that we didnt discussed here. It's a test that failed.
Watch it if you wish.

https://youtu.be/9PiDcY5P__s?list=PL6NJF1kQFOAImsLpNil3wNCb8POZQLYM0

Easier to absorb the EMF with thin lead sheet than block it...

yes, that is very good idea, I love it !

but... I dont have this kind of material available to me.

I might make a sheet from lead myself (from depleted car batteries), but is a bit toxic especially in the house. I melted lead when I was a child, and i got some very nasty furunculosis under the armpit and got operated to remove them. Nasty experience but is true.

I will think about how to make myself a sheet like that.

But maybe you can think on other methods. I love your ideas so far.

Yes lead is very toxic, so needs to be painted, and all safety gear needed....but lead is used not only in batteries, but in balancing wheels on cars, fishing sinkers, and bullets....so the sheet doesn't need to be thick, 1mm is enough...so you don't need much, but you do need a torch that can get hot enough(327°C) to melt it....An old boatyard may yield results as lead is used for ballast in a lot of sail boats ... the weight belts used in scuba diving use lead...

https://www.wikihow.com/Melt-Lead

Do a local search for lead flashing. (I know it's a little more expensive than you want, but its already in sheet form, and, you can get it delivered)

code 2 is 0.88mm thick; code 3: is 1.32mm thick.

Please help !
Another update, this time i made a very short video (2min) where I present the problem.
I inserted the 3'd relay inside the switch socket and I command it with 5V from the 2'd relay.
But the 2'd relay is vibrating like crazy when I power the board.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v_IQTUrmAZU&feature=youtu.be

I tested it on my working bench and is doing the same. So, no mains interference at all. It is not influenced by the live wires this time.
If I disconnect the 3'd relay from circuit, everything works fine.
If I put 5V on the 3'd relay, is working fine.
My PSU is showing me 1A , sign that something is in short. But Nothing is in short. It behaves as is in short. Only when I connect that 3'd relay. It is weird as hell. I checked for short with my multimeter and nothing is in short. But once I power it up, it goes to 1A straight.
Actually I tested again and is not rising to 1A but to 1.44A ! Way over my custom limit that I set on my PSU . Very-very strange.

It was a logical error. Im too tired of it probably.

I solved the problem. It was a short after all, but a logical one. Eh... stuff happens.

New update:
The movie is very short (3m40s)
Please watch it, I explain in it what I did and how it works.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6cO9FUfo64&list=PL6NJF1kQFOAImsLpNil3wNCb8POZQLYM0&index=11

another update:
I made a test for the LM3914, then I made a new test on the workbench and on the wall.
I made a manual switching module with a pot and is working fine.
I was afraid of further interference on the wall, but is normal now with the pot.
I am curious what other sensing modules you can think I should try.
Please enumerate all that you have in mind. I have already mentioned myself a few, in the movie. I don't care for originality but I care for quantity this time. So, go nuts.
Warning, this is a lengthy movie, 23m.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zmf_keHw8fk&list=PL6NJF1kQFOAImsLpNil3wNCb8POZQLYM0&index=12

This is a hard project. But we don't give up until we find a solution.
- I want another sensing circuit !
Until now I had this one built with 2N7002. It worked fine on the table, but near the live mains, it gets strong interference.
So it is not good anymore. I showed in my last post here a video where I changed the sensing circuit with a simple 10k potentiometer and it worked, on the wall, exactly as on my testing bench, very good, very optimal, all leds full lit, just excellent. I tested if the mains 220V were affecting the entire circuit board, and is only affecting the sensing circuit alone. So that was a relief.
Now I can think on alternatives for another sensing circuit.
Mister SolarEagle, Randall, redfred , PWSlack you are my best friends here, you did a great job and I thank you. My wish is to push it further. Obstacles like these happens and is hard for everyone, especially me. But me alone... is impossible to make too much of it. But with your help i have greater chance of success. And don't get mad on me if I'm not trying something you just said, because I work slow and alone and I have also to decide what to do next. My goal, as yours as well, is to make it work, it's all that matters for us, correct? In the end, when all the best ideas fails in practice, I will come back to the older ideas that i skipped. I am methodical as I can.
I want to try next, the theremin circuit. It is the capacitive sensing circuit redfred mentioned and it should not interfere like the FET was. The downside of it, it is a big circuit to make, way outside my original plan. But I dont care of my original plan anymore, I only care to make it work.
The next idea is to use IR. It is probably the best idea, but I am also using IR for the remote control (it is an option for that as well).
And that's it. I only have these 2 other options to try. I cant think on something else to use for the sensing circuit.
It might be another way with a coil of some sort, but I didnt get too much into it and for now is just a vague idea for me. And I think it will be pretty much like the FET , in functionality.
Thank you very much and I hope to hear from you guys.
---
Someone else on another forum had a very interesting idea to add to the existing FET circuit, a "low pass filter" and a "peak detector". They sound very interesting but I never use them before. So what you think about them and how to actually implement them? But this FET idea was already eating my time and my nerves, way beyond my plan. I think I should skip it and concentrate on other sensing circuit options. What do you think?

Aaah, mister redfred you make my day. I really appreciate your answers.

I received already this 433Mhz and this dtmf .With these 2 (and some other options ) I planned to make a remote control. I didnt do anything with them yet since I will let this remote module to the very end. But I am mentioning it because is influencing what I choose for the sensing circuit.
I am also thinking at 1 dtmf board to use in both situations, 1 as sensing circuit, and 1 as remote. Both transmitting a specific modulation. This way it can be built with a simple LDR and a led light reflected by my hand, (and also from a remote) all modulated to a specific rithm that dtmf will decode from both sources. Its a bit complex but I can do it. I am also expecting some PIC microcontrollers to arrive as well, so I cant start anything yet. But is an option. This is actually the option you are mentioning for "the active IR sources". Excellent explanation of the 2 categories ! I really like it. I am also expecting the IR leds and their receivers to come in mail. IF!!! they will come.

I think I will try to start the theremin option that you mentioned it. Its a VERY good idea that I like it from the beginning when you said about it. You are formidable !

I start to not care of the complexity of it anymore, but I care more about how to make it work. Very Simple.

Thank you so much for your fantastic answers.

The lead sheet that SolarEagle mentioned, I didnt forget it, its an option that I put it aside for the moment, but I will definetly try it, if everything else fails. Its the money problem, thats why I leave it aside. But I definitely have my eyes on it.

As a side question, what do you think about the other option, "....very interesting idea to add to the existing FET circuit, a "low pass filter" and a "peak detector"...." ? I dont see how to separate these 2 signals. 1 strong signal from 220, and 1 weak hand signal. Somehow, to filter the 220 signal and exclude it and then leave only my hand signal "visible" to the FET. But how to do it, is way out of my knowledge and experience. You guys are more fit to make it work than me, if possible, thats why I mention it. But you find it weird as well. I think some radio - amplifier stuff will be involved here, my wild guess. It's probably possible with some state of the art measuring tools, but I dont have those.

Infrared remote control uses the frequency range from 300 MHz to 400 GHz; infrared heat is from 300 GHz to 430 THz: there's not much overlap, and you could certainly choose your remote to avoid the heat range (433 MHz is well outside).

"As a side question, what do you think about the other option, "....very interesting idea to add to the existing FET circuit, a "low pass filter" and a "peak detector"...." ?"

I'm not sure how the existing detector works, perhaps someone could explain, but, I suspect that it relies on the human body being a good receiver of the radiation from the mains (50 or 60 Hz) and couples that to the aerial, so, no filters will help (the frequencies your trying to receive and reject are the same).

Excellent explanations !

Here is my sensing circuit that I used:

You are perfectly right, it's antenna is sensing my hand interference when I move it around. The circuit is around this transistor: (smd)2N7002 or (to92)2N7000.

I made a simple AC detector, that doesnt work on my wall, but only on my table. I think it's sensing my grounded table. If I lift it in air, its led is lit for a considerable distance from table, from about 20 cm and forward.
Is working somehow, but not really sensing what I need.

Here is in the air(led is on):______________Here is near the table (and led is off):

_______________

More progress:

short video of 7min:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEpisVb3bpU&list=PL6NJF1kQFOAImsLpNil3wNCb8POZQLYM0&index=13

New updates, new progress:

https://www.deviantart.com/q12a/art/q20210206-Wings-Circuit-Update-869442694

A new test on the workbench. Very short video of 3min.

https://youtu.be/2-UOJTxgxyw

Shielding Problem Resolved !