Why do Some Power Switches Appear to Have Two Current Ratings?

Maybe its lower for an inductive load.

My WAG would be the two current ratings reflect the type of load the switch is controlling. The higher number is the maximum current for a purely resistive load (i.e. lighting) while the lower number is for a reactive load (motor).

This seems like a per pole rating, 7 amps per pole on a 2 pole switch....

It could be a universal type switch that is rated for 14 amps@120v or 7 amps@240v ...the 1680 watts would be the same....

https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Replacement-Switch-A250VAC-Powerdash-FH50700/dp/B0BXYYWC77

Maybe 7A switch load and 14A conducting with separate isolation.

Maybe the application might give us a clue. Never seen anything as cryptic as that.

It's the power switch for a friends vacuum cleaner. Most of the possible "bodge in replacements" seem to have similar looking specs., but, I can't enhance the pictures in the adverts enough to read them. None of them have specs. because they are all advertised as replacements for specific machines.

The odd thing about the old switch is that the spade terminals come "out of the ends":

I would just bodge it with a toggle switch, but, my friend wants it to be compatible with the existing push button in the case of the machine.

The cleaner is a ProAction BC-230, seems to be incredibly powerful for a tiny machine.

Comes pretty close by looks and spec....

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=++vacumm+cleaner+switch&_sacat=0&rt=nc&Compatible%2520Brand=Universal&_dcat=42146

So it appears the different ratings for amps/voltage are the different specification approvals for different agencies in different countries probably....

Remember to actually test the switch before replacing it...your brushes could be worn out, or you might have a dead spot on the commutator surface....

It's definitely the switch, and, just the mechanical operation of it.

My friend has discovered that he can repeatedly "stab" the button very fast about 5 or 7 times, and get it to stay on. I pointed out that he could probably leave it on, and, turn it off and on at the wall socket: we tried it and it worked.

^{(I even suggested a make do solution using a blue tooth remote controlled wall plug/socket.)}

FYI:(side note):probably OT,but I could not edit that option when I edited it.

Do not clean this commutator!

Most people try to get a perfectly shiny commutator.

The color is perfect for a healthy commutator.If it is bright and shiny,the brushes are too aggressive.If totally black,the brushes are too soft.The only case when a shiny armature is desirable is after turning and undercutting of the armature.

Of course,if it is deeply grooved,or has shiny streaks, it needs to be turned down and undercut.I have seen literally hundreds of industrial DC motors and have been to a factory where brushes are manufactured.There is more to a commutator and brushes than meets the eye.A lot more.My son has a co-patent on one of the machines in a brush manufacturing plant used to make brushes.

Thanks again: that looks like the explanation.

Thanks Solar: brilliant find; by searching for KAN-J4 I found these:

Which appear to be an exact match.

Well it just doesn't get any better than that....job done!

Hi Randall, KAN-A seems to be some kind of specification and HODA is a chinese manufacturers name (seems lots of companies are called hoda in china ) !
You could try these guys out to see if they have a replacement available.
http://anovay.com they have lots of KAN-A switches listed on their products page.

Thanks,

Couldn't find anything on their site, so, I have emailed their sales team.