Electric Heaters

it depends if you can use a plug on the end that would be best, if not i would use sjo or some type of heavy duty rubber cable to do this. and i would check with the electrical contractor on site to see if it ok for you to do this. Is this a union site? you are running about 20 amps at 240 volts. the load is no problem stove and dryers are a 30 amp circuit.

Before you do so, you might want to check with the general contractor. Most contracts will have stipulations on who provides temporary heat for a project. You don't want to get yelled at for no reason do you?

If you make any modification what-so-ever to an electrical appliance, you have essentially assumed legal liability for it. Before you "touched" it, it was carefully tested and scrutinized by UL laboratories or similar testing agency. ( It's all about what a lawyer can convince a jury these days you know....).

In the US, if OSHA comes on a jobsite, for instance, you're not allowed to have an extension cord that has been repaired, altered, or even a piece of tape covering a scuff mark!

Contractors routinely do just as you are inquiring but if you have bad luck and your "altered" electrical appliance causes a fire....you're in deep doo-da.

Generally speaking, if you have to ask, probably you should not attempt it.

if you were an expert, and quite sure of yourself.. you'd need no guidance at all.

One should -Never- attept electrical projects involving any danger to persons without total confident expertise. Acquire that first, then review your wiring plans.

BTW hard wiring a heater not designed for same is asking 4 disaster. Even if it was designed to hardwire, it needs its own dedicated circuit with breaker; with the proper margin of over capacity [no, i won't tell you what that is for heaters]

Safety pays...

jstacat

If you have the heater plugged into a receptacle that is of the same type, look at the end of most cord caps, and you'll see a set of numbers and letters with a dash mark between them (that will tell what type of receptacle it must be plugged into). If that receptacle is hooked up to conductors that can handle the load, and those conductors are connected to a properly sized overcurrent device (breaker), then there shouldn't be any issues with the way it is wired. Verify with the General, and hire the electrical sub to wire the receptacle, and you should be okay (isn't that what those "construction heaters" were made for)?

From a Safety Standpoint you don't want to alter the electrical appliance.

You want to be able to unplug it right away.