OSB for Hardwood Flooring

The answer is pretty straight forward. Think of this: WWJD. In other words, What Would Jesus DO? After all he was a carpenter.

Now, WWID? That is, What Would I Do? I would call the 1-800 number on the flooring and ask them what I have to do to not void the warranty.

Jesus would probably do the same.

I guess my question should have been..."should they tear out the particle board and lay 3/4" OSB instead or will this work if they just lay 1/4 OSB on top of the particle board nailing all the way down into the plywood below". Thanks for the info...I wish these people I am dealing with knew Jesus. R.

Having recently laid 3/4in microbevelled tongue-and-groove French Oak flooring over the top of 3/4in flooring grade chipboard using adhesive supplied with the flooring, all that can be said is that 'there are many ways to skin a cat' (no offence, Del).

I would not lay it on top of some thing as thin as 1/4 OSB. Would go to some thing thicker. Would want a good flat surface to lay it on. If it isn't flat I don't think 1/4 OSB would correct the flaws.

3/8"+ Birch plywood, as underlayment. You can overlay the chipboard, or remove it(more work) it all depends on the other floor heights, trimming problems the extra height may create....The main problem with todays flooring, is its thinness, which allows it to move around, possibly allowing moisture and water into the subfloor. B.C.,Master Carp.....

I would have to confirm using plywood, the thicker the better. I have maple hardwood on 3/4" OSB, and it squeaks all over. Get rid of the particle board, no OSB. Also, make sure your plywood (both old and new) is SCREWED (even glued, as well, if possible, PL Premium) to the joists and/or layer underneath it. Stagger the plywood sheets, and glue the tongue and groove edges.

Before installing the flooring, chalk line the centerline of the joists, and insist that the installer hits EVERY joist through the plywood, as well as in between. However, with a combined plywood thickness of 1 1/2", properly anchored and secured to the joists as well as between layers, this is less than critical, but still a good idea.

You will never regret the extra effort and expense. Not only will it not squeak, you will really appreciate the solid, quality feel underfoot when walking on it, virtually forever.

I'm really surprised nobody mentioned moisture content of the wood. Buy your self a moisture meter and verify the wood has less than 8 % moisture content. Even if it is kiln dried, moisture (especially in Seattle) can be re-absorbed quickly. Your floor will crack and shrink when conditions in the house are dry, over time. I also would not have a problem with multiple layers of sub-flooring if it was pre-nailed every 4-6 inches.

Good Speed !

As in reply #9--be sure to put roofing felt under the new flooring. This prevents the finish floor from rubbing on the underfloor (Squeak!, Squeak!).

It only takes a few minutes extra and a few dollars worth of felt, and is cheap at twice the price.

I had a similar problem in my home. I wanted to replace carpet in the hallway with 3/4" Oak and the subfloor was 1/2" plywood (bottom layer) with 3/4" particle board (between plywood and carpet padding). The installers ripped out the 3/4" particle board and put 1/2" plywood on top of the 1/2" plywood already there. We went with the two layers of 1/2" plywood because it brought the surface of the hardwood to the right height to match the carpet in the bedrooms and was thicker than the minimum thickness of 3/4" plywood underlayment. NO GLUE was used (and no regrets). We have been very pleased with the floor over the 2 years since it was installed. We plan to do the same in our bedroom.

A lot depends on what is underneath the subfloor--what kind of insulation and vapor barrier to keep moisture from moving in/out of the dwelling. If there is not a good moisture barrier, the moisture content of all the flooring will change with the seasons. Also, one must open the new flooring up to room humidity and temp conditions for several (3 min) days to equalize the moisture content to avoid shrinking/swelling of the new flooring, which causes cracks and squeaking.

The key to a stable floor is a stable moisture content. assuming there is enough structural support.

Some hardwood floors are installed over 'sleepers' (2x4's,2' long) arranged somewhat randomly and staggered so the 3/4" thick flooring is supported very 12-18" lengthwise. Some installations go as far as 4'--to deliberately provide some spring (dance floors).

First: I'm not a carpenter. But I recently sold my home of 10 years here in SE Florida. We to have high humidity, mold and mildew problems but not in my home. The house was built in 1953. It has a suspended, red oak floor. The strips are 1/2" x 2 and 1/2" in various lengths. These were tongue and groove on diagonal planks and those on the joyces below. The tongue and groove oak was NOT nailed or glued. As the humidity changes the wood breathes - expands and contracts. A wood floor must be free to move. I sanded and refinished the oak when I moved in. It was in great shape to begin. It was in better shape when I finally sold.

Question: What is "Hickory Pecan"? Those are two very different woods with different grains.

Bob

Thank you so much for your reply...this helps tremendously! Also, if you go to this website you can see the flooring I have http://www.kentwoodfloors.com/content/productViewer.aspx?ID=152

Thanks again...R

I don’t have exact answer for you but I know http://www.pcwoodfloors.com/locations/brooklyn where experts have years of experience in flooring and can solve your problems easily. Even I consulted them before having wooden floor finished at home and given them the order to place the best hardwood floors with proper installations and orientations.