Rusting hot water baseboard cover in bathroom

Try a heat gun.

Epoxies have a weakness, moisture and peel strength. Unfortunately, depending on what your wall substrate (surface) is you may be "hooped". If it's managed to penetrate deeply with say a wood it will likely rip the fibers out before the epoxy will fail. Try starting at one end by driving a nylon (or other soft or forgiving matl) wedge in it and working your way along.. No gaurantees depend on what type of epoxy it is..

As for sanding down, what usually works best on hard cured adhesive are surface shavers. ie square nosed hardened steel blades (similar x-section to a ice skate blade or the lateral side of a chisel). But can be tedious work depend on the size your dealing with. You might be best going at it with a angle grinder if its a larger area or dremel if it a small area... Good luck.. Jay

My hydronic baseboards were luckily nailed to the wall. I was able to get a thin pry bar down behind and pry them off.

Epoxy has a weakness, the five minute stuff doesn't like heat. A blow torch will soften it up and you can peel it off.

I sand blasted my baseboards, then applied automotive spray primer and then oil based wall paint. It lasts for maybe 5 years then you start all over again.

I have been seriously considering hot dip galvanize next time. It runs about 50 cents per pound of steel, minimum order $150. (So I need to beef up the project with something else I would want galvanized, like my trailer frame!) Bathrooms seem to be a problem with metal fixtures!

<....seems they have actually "corked" or "appoxied" the baseboard cover to the wall. How can I pry this off the wall without damaging it. I have tried large paint scrapers to get behind it, etc. No use. Any advice....>

"Baseboard" - is it timber? Some sort of wood saw, and cut it away? Plane back what is left until nearly flush, and finish off with a sander?

Some damage to the wall may be unavoidable. That's what filler compounds are for.

I've got the same problem with the rust. I don't know why your units are stuck to the wall though.

For the painting I'm just wire brushing the worst of the rust and then using a Rust-Oleum textured spray paint to cover the whole mess. That way I don't have to smooth the surface before painting. It's a cheat but it works.

As far as getting the things off the wall I don't know what to tell you. Running a utility knife along the corner where the unit meets the wall might help. Another thing might be to use a hack saw blade without the frame. Wrap some gaffa tape around the end and use that to slowly saw through whatever adhesive was used. Going to take some time to get the thing off but this might be made up by less repair time later.

My heat runs are screwed into the wall where the 2x4's are. They just used dry wall screws. But I've found that getting the one part of the shield back in is really tough, so I'm just leaving the one part on the wall and masking the areas I don't want painted (like the wall and the radiator) with newspaper and 3M blue painter's tape.

This is where the textured paint really comes in handy. I only knock the loose scale off with the wire brush. I don't have to repair the rust to smooth. So I can leave the bloody thing on the wall and just paint over the defects. Texture over texture doesn't look bad at all.

Guess it depends on what you want this to look like when you're done.

If you are talking about the plastic base covering it glued on with tile glue. A heat gun will loosen it so that it can be pulled of. Baseboards are nailed on the many layers of paint over the years may make it seem that the are glued on. Cut along the top of the baseboard with a razor knife. They make a flat right angled pry bar. With a hammer force the short end between the board and the wall and pry the board off.