Television Repair 2nd Attempt

You are right. The horizontal line shows that the horizontal sweeping works, the high voltage is OK but you do not have vertical sweeping. The resistor that you mention might have either an IC close that might be burnt or two transistors in the same condition. The size of the resistor tells, aproximatelly, the wattage. As for the value, if you came to terms with the power (I assume that is a power resistor), start with 1000 ohm and go down (or up) in value untill the screen gets to the acceptable height. Do not keep the TV running but to ascertain the effects of your change. If you are not into USA, be careful about the line and neutral position of the plug. Whould you believe that there are some countries where it is not standardized the use of line and neutral connection? (If you consider Europe as a country).

Of coarse, if you want to spend $20, there are sites on Internet where they sell the schematic of your TV set, and then you can check all components around that burnt resistor, supply voltages..etc.

Good luck

There is about 90% chance that the resistor was fried by a leaky Vertical IC Chip. I knew when I threw out a few thousand service manuals last month that I would soon wish I hadn't. Sorry about that, but there are several sites where you can get them if you want to bad enough. Just Google "CF2655R". BTW I would not advise running the set with the back off unless you use an isolation Xfmr. That model is a "Hot chassis set". Working on one while plugged in without isolation is pure suicide. Don't even think about it. I want to think that R441 is a 2.2K 1W wirewound resistor, but I sure wouldn't recommend trusting my memory. Good luck.

Young fella, us old timers use this method; usually when a res burns out, it is in the centre- so we use an Ohms test- using needle points on probes, 1 lead to each leg in turn, & the other scratches the res body till contact- then estimate the reading in a linear manner as if the res was whole- a very reasonable estimate can be made; as others have said there is a vertical problem- check/ r/p vert whether ic or transistors- check all comp around this area- confirm volt ok to vert- sometimes can be electro, or s/c/leaky diode etc,etc,etc.

I'm afraid I could not find any schematics. The only help I might possibly offer is that the vertical IC may be IC301. This may have to be replaced as well as the resistor. Could you not make out any colors on the resistor?

The resistor is a solid drab grey in color physically measuring approx 12x4mm with lead spacing of 20mm. thanks!

If the numbers represent the color code then it would be <red> <brown> <black> <red>. This would indicate that the resistor is 21 ohms plus or minus 10% to the best of my recollection. However, I am not sure that these numbers represent the color code. They may represent some other code that the manufacturer of this resistor uses or just the part number. It is also remotely possible that the resistor is still functional. Just because it is burnt looking does not mean that it is burnt up completely. I have tested resistors that were burnt pretty badly and found them to have the same resistance they did before becoming hot enought to scorch the outer surface of the resistor. In any case, I would isolate one lead of the resistor to check it and see what resistence reading I could get. Also, I would check around on the circuit board to see if there is another resistor that looks just like the one that is burnt (except for being burnt that is). Sometimes you get lucky and the engineer has a favorite set of parts he/she likes to use when designing circuitry and you will find more than one placed here and there.

Regards,

Keywalker

vertical faults can be a bitch.

at that age, it will need a lot of the caps replaced. i would replace anything in the supply that looked slightly suss and all the caps in the vert area.

go over all the solder joints in the vartical area.

if the resistor is in the supply to the vert then drop a 5 or so ohm R in there. when the supply caps start to fail then the vert can draw too much current.

although, if the resistor is visibly cooked then its not likely to be a fusible, i would suspect the vert drive IC.

toshibas are pretty good though,so there is a reasonable chance the vert chip is still alive.

I have been informed that the resistor in question is a 1k ohm,1wj fusible resistor. Pardon my ignorance, but what does "1wj" designate (watt-joule?)? Does this value seem reasonable? I do have a new IC301 comming (AN5527) but plan on installing the resistor first without changing out the IC. Any forseeable problem with this other than the risk of frying the new resistor? Thanks for your continued support.

There is the possibility of frying the new resistor but at about 15cents apiece that is not too great a concern. It probably would not fry too quickly giving you time to see if the vertical deflection returns. If the problem remains, pull the plug before it has time to ruin the new resistor. Never heard of "wj" may be a simple typo. The resistor is a 1K Ω 1 Watt.

Something else will be amiss or the fusible resistor would not have fried in the first place.

One way or another the problem WILL come back to an electrolytic capacitor or two (or more). The chip may or may not have died from this also. Replacing the resistor and the chip and the same thing could happen again instantly.

I would change the caps in the vertical stage at a minimum before even trying the resistor.

I did 20 years in TV repairs, 99% of problems are caused by electro caps, the symptoms are usually fried resistors and chips, the caps usually give no indication of failure unless you have an ESR meter.

I have used one of these for years and it has saved me many many hours when troubleshooting.

http://members.ozemail.com.au/~bobpar/esrmeter.htm

ps .. I did stick a resistor in series with the display cathode to drop the display current down a lot, on a 9v battery the display changing would throw out the analog stage. Not sure what the designer was doing without current limiting on the display.

Yes dried out electrolytic capacitors are a major cause of failure in electronic equipment- the ESR meter which applies a 100kHz wave & measures the response is invaluable- but electros also become leaky, s/c, or blown up- in the former 2 disconnect to measure out of circuit- the best way is of course to r/p with new- this is great if you have same on hand- if not you test what is serviceable. Electrolytic caps, being chemical devices, have a finite life- usually in well designed equipment, this may last the life of the equipment- but in cheap equipment from 3rd world(isn't all now?)- inverse applies!.