Broken wire leading to MAF sensor

According to this: http://www.txdps.state.tx.us/vi/publications/brochures/OBD_guide.pdf

the OBD-II inspection is about the vehicle's engine management as regards its emissions performance. It doesn't appear to be about components.

If a wire is broken, repair it. Returning the function that the wire is intended to provide will improve engine management. Use the same type of wire. If you've got red, then use it.

The colour of the wire is absolutely not important to the function of the device. Make sure that it is the same size and characteristic wire (amount of strands, resistance etc) The colour will only make it easier for future mechanics to identify what it is.

If you can reach well enough, strip about 0.25" of each side and twist them together facing opposite directions. Now solder and make sure it flows ok (pre solder each part is essential) Now cover with shrink tubing of the right size and heat. Pre slide heat shrink on the remaining bit and solder the loose end in the same way. Make sure you have it water proof as it will short and distort sensing.

It should work ok after this as long as you have the same kind of wire and not very different in length.

Let us know.

Thank you, I got some automotive wire that was the same size. I did not have much wire to work with near the bottom of the distributor. I stripped it the best I could and twisted it together with the new wire but did not twist them facing opposite directions. I had to put the wires next to each other and twist that way. I wrapped it good with electrical tape at each connection. The original connection was made with one of those tubes that you insert the wires into each end and then crimp it down on both ends. I did this all before I read your post. Can I use the crimping tube in place of soldering them because I do not have any soldering equipment? The wire is about 5 inches longer than the original because I still need to get the crimping connection so I just did a quick fix. I will have to redo it once I get that piece.

If it works for now it does prove the fact and that is good enough for now.

The crimping connections you talk about are not water proof and suffer under vibration so they are good for short amount of time but not ideal.

Do try to solder as that ensures a good contact without any increased resistance. The sensor might work with resistance somewhere down the line so any increase will change the readings. Also these crimp connections will corrode and that will do horrible things to the resistance.

If it works for now just live with it but get yourself a soldering iron (low watt is good enough for thin automotive sensor wire) and some shrink tubing of the right size. Make the permanent repair later when you have all of the stuff.

Thanks for getting back to us, much appreciated.

To that good answer I might add, Liquid electrical tape can be a good substitute for heat shrink if needed, but a good electrical connection is mandatory After finished he should clear all stored codes, and recheck.

I went back to the automotive store with the original crimp tubing I had taken off and they gave me a couple of tubes that looked similiar to the one I had and the guy said to insert both ends of the wire into the tube and flame it with a cigarette lighter and it will melt and seal the connection. Is this the shrink tubing you spoke about? I'm kind of hesitant to use a lighter in such a tight space. There are alot of other wires very close to were I need to make the connection. I do want to fix it correctly, like you suggested. My immediate goal is to get the damn thing to pass inspection. I had called one of my husbands friends to help me and he took off the electrical tape I had put on and put on those screw on caps over the connections. I wanted to wrap them with electrical tape to keep them waterproof because you can see a bit of the bare wire still. He told me not to worry about it, that nothing will short out. He also said that it wasn't necessary to disconnect the battery while working on these wires. I disconnected it anyway because that is what the repair manual advises you to do. It's raining out today so I think I'll wrap the connections with electrical tape just to keep the connections as dry as possible. I'm no electrician but I do know water & electricity are not a good mix. I've spent the last two weeks trying to get rid of various codes and this is the last remaing one so I'm trying to be as careful as possible. Am I being too picky about this?? I'm going this morning to get any codes cleared and hopefully they will not reappear. Another poster suggested liquid electrical tape as an option. I'll let you know how this works.

Those screw on caps have no place on an automobile. The connector that I think you are referring to from the auto store are designed to first shrink around the wire, then melt the solder into the now sealed connection. The two types of self sealing connectors that I am aware of are 1. crimp the wires mechanically, and then heat till the plastic heat shrink shrinks tight around the wires. 2. Slide the connector over the wires, twist the wires together then heat. The heat first shrinking the sleeve tight around the wires, then continued heat melting the ring of solder till it flows into the wire strands. It might be easier to use a hair dryer to reduce the size of the heat shrink, but you will probably need higher temp to melt the solder style. Hope this helps. Has your trouble code been corrected?

I'm going now to have the codes cleared and then see if it worked. I'll write another post when I get home later and let you all know. Thanks for all your suggestions. I'm pretty sure he gave me the shrink connectors. I just have to find a good way to heat them. The hair dryer is a good idea but I agree that it probably won't melt the solder.

The hair dryer is not for melting the solder but the heat shrink tubing. Maybe it will work if you make a mock up air nozzle to go on the front that diverts all the air coming out into a small pipe with which you blast the heat shrink tubing. On it's own as a hair dryer it will most likely not work as it does not have enough heat in one concentrated place. If you struggle get a paint stripper gun, they will work as we use them for this job at work without any problems.

I have decided to advice you NOT to use the shrink connectors they gave you as I do not know them. This means my knowledge is short but from what I hear from you, I would not use them my self so I will tell you the same. Go for normal straight forward soldering and isolate afterwards. Maybe use the electrical sealing tape but again, unless you have good access to the connection, I would not use it as it tends to work best when applied under stretch force when wrapped around the wire. If you are short of access you are most likely to struggle with this so go for the shrink tubing first and if you like wrap some over the top of that, overlapping the edges by enough to ensure a belts and braces seal.

Looking forward to your outcome, do include me in your list of updates please.

Regards,

Case491

I went to the inpection station and there was no code. However, I still have to drive the car around to allow the PCM to reset, so no sticker yet. The guy told me 2-3 days of driving but I don't think I can stand the suspense that long. I've already driven it about 65 miles with a combination of highway and a few stops here and there shutting the car off. The OBD system has to show all systems complete and in a state of rediness before computer will spit out a sticker. I am hopefully optimistic that I have finally fixed the problem. The car seems to be running alot smoother with no hesitation on accelration or surging. Plus it is not sucking as much gas.

CONGRATULATIONS

At this point you should have seen the "check engine light" if the problem had not been resolved. Please refer to Bob's rule #2 of auto repairs. " If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

You forget rule number 15467 which says: if all the above works BUT you know it will get broke soon, do something about it!

That is what makes me so anxious about this is because the check engine light has never come on, even though there are codes in the system. It only lights up when you turn the key to start the car. So the jury is still out on this one.

The lighting up before the engine has actually started is perfectly normal...if there was any question to that. There are some codes that will keep recurring without causing the light to come on, however.

Soldering would be by far the best connection for this application (or most any), as has been pointed out. My suggestion would be to check a local Radio Shack (I'm assuming you're in the U.S.?). They should have available low-watt soldering iron "kits" for about $8. Also, for about $20 they have small butane powered ones that will maybe be easier to use if it's a confined space. Just solder the connections (it's really easier than it might sound) and then cover with the shrink tubing or electrical tape.

As pointed out, the liquid electrical "tape" may be easier to use as it will ensure proper coverage and protection from the elements. I have used it for automotive purposes before and never had a problem. Just make sure you have a good connection before applying it though, because it's hard to get off to re-make the connection!

Also, ALWAYS disconnect the battery when doing electrical work on a vehicle. With so many expensive computer modules and relays on cars these days why risk a)electrical shock to yourself or b)a costly repair? It only takes a few seconds and is the proper practice.

Good luck!

You now have 2 blogs for this problem.......!!!

I don't see any rules broken so what is the big deal. You did good and even better for hanging in there and posting back. This is what makes the forum such a great place and it makes all those little idiots that post stupid silly incomprehensible questions that never post back worth putting up with. Thank you for restoring my failing faith.

You may not see any codes for the maf alone. It could be that the codes were stacked up or even left in there from a previous error. Some systems do not clean the codes by themselves but they need deleting.

Just wanted to give you the courtesy of letting you know it worked. I went back to the inspection station today, the code was gone and I got my sticker. WOO HOO!! Now all I have to do is fix the connection properly. Thanks again for your help.

Absolutely fantastic! You saved yourself a big batch of "Greenbacks" here, well done.

Thank you!! Perserverance always pays off.

Fantastic news, can you send us the pictures and detailed explanations please, I am afraid my car has just gone up the creek.

Just kidding, well done and please don't be tempted to leave the connection as it is for it will F@#k things up for you at the least expected time when you really need the damn thing to work.

1 dollar's worth of botch job can cause as much dammage as a 1 dollar's worth of proper job can prevent......or something like that

Agreed. I will do my best to make the proper repair.