polymers

Start with a product named "CWF" (Google) yes it means 'clear wood finish' and is exceptional, the product line includes a restoration chemical process to redeem weathered wood surfaces too.

Wood varnish or clear urethane paint.

I'd go with Thompson's Waterseal. It's probably the best known brand in North America and would protect well in your environment. (You can also review the active ingredients on the Thompson's label and purchase lower priced equivalents; both oil and water-based at places like ACE Hardware).

What is better, water or oil based sealant? Is it better to use a water sealant product with un-treated wood, or use treated wood alone, or treated wood + a water sealant? I am having a house built and thought about this the other day in regards to fencing.

Treating treated wood is a waste of treatment. Use treated wood or synthetic...

Yes, that is what I thought...but then is it better to use pre-treated wood from a hardware store, or is the untreated wood with Thomson's water seal better?

Is better to use the pre-treated wood that is pressure treated; 'Sunwood' is an example but better products are now available.

www.strongtie.com/productuse/PTWOODFAQs.html

building A double-porch and balcony,using old telephone poles as supports.What would be The best clear-coating on these poles?THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT!

Aren't they already coated in creasote?

The storage and use of creosote is now heavily regulated in the UK. Substitute self-application products are available, though with less attractive prospects as regards long-term performance of the timbers they protect.

I'd wrap the poles with rope then leave them be or then coat with 'Deft'

Hi rockfishjr. I hope you get some good answers here. I am in the process of cutting down pines which I will have sawn into beams for a barn. I am particularly concerned about insect attack, since the beams will be "green". I hope to find a "homebrew" formula for a treatment that will protect from borers as well as fungal attack.

Bill Morrow

Oh, and I have a similar climate here in central Alabama as do you in eastern NC. Termites destroy any wood structure in contact with the ground within 2-3 years.

Go to www.preservation-solutions.com.

Gary-

Thanks for the site. Pentacryl is good for stopping shrinkage in small items like lathe-turned bowls. To be effective the bowl must be submerged for days in a heated solution in order to displace the water with polymer. Obviously this would not be practical (or affordable) for beams. What is needed is an anti-vermin, anti-fungal solution. A sealer such as urethane, polyester, or penetrating oil would probably not be appropriate because they would interfere with the re-application of preservative. But, then, I'm no expert. That's why I am asking for help, too.

Bill Morrow

For an incredibly durable clear coating try polyester resin. It's about $35 a gallon, including hardener, stretches a long way and leaves a plastic coating on wood that is water impermeable.

Protection from excess moisture is the key to the longevity of wood. Given enough moisture, even pressure treated lumber rots. Keep lumber dry and it will last for many years.

THANK YOU!!! I thought there was A product out there that would be for my needs.POLYESTER RESIN,A smooth, clear,hard surface,that blocks moisture and is very durable.JUST WHAT I WAS LOOKING FOR!!!THANKS AGAIN!!!

Polyester resin is indeed everything that Cornelius says. One thing it is not, however, is flexible or elastic. If the wood is subject to expansion/ contraction due to changes in humidity the resin will crack. Once cracked, it will allow moisture to get into the wood, then hold it in, accelerating rot. I would think a penetration oil, while still not perfect, would best serve your need. It should contain at least 50% tung oil, and penetration can be enhanced by adding a thinner. It would need to be re-applied every 1 to 5 years.

Oh, and I don't mean to hijack your thread. Since my need is so similar to yours I thought I could piggyback and we both might benifit.

Thanks,

Bill Morrow

It is correct that polyester resin is rigid to a degree. Nevertheless, it does have a coefficient of expansion which depending on the wood can be similar. It is used on wooden marine hulls every day. Whether it cracks from a dissimilar thermal C.O.E. depends on the thickness of the resin and preparation of the substrate.

Aye, then wind rope around the posts and coat with resin so the little tike's can climb and frolic without harm.

"it does have a coefficient of expansion which depending on the wood can be similar"

Yes that is true. However, coefficient of expansion describes the expansion/contraction with variations in temperature. The problem, I think, comes with expansion/contraction of the wood due to variations in humidity.

I remember spending many long, hot afternoons as a "youngun" lying on my back scraping the peeling resin from the underside of a mahogany boat hull. If there were a perfect system for sealing wood I guess everyone would know about it already.

Good Luck!

Bill Morrow

think the point you are trying to make is contingent upon the realization that the coefficient of expansion is close to that of wood when both are immersed in water.

However in this application being that one part of the post surface may be bathed in intense sun light the opposite may be in cool shade rendering the aforementioned coefficient moot.

I wish I had said that.

I wish I COULD say that.