Polishing and Anodizing needed.

None of what you have mentioned has anything to do with electrical engineering. Try the Mechanical engineering forum.

Try asking here...

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/

You are capable of doing the polishing yourself. Except for any powder coated items, which I'm not sure how to neatly take off the paint except for maybe a heat gun and scrapers, if they are aluminum, a cheap grinder motor with a buffing wheel will cover most of the easily accessible surfaces. A various assortment of smaller discs, wheels and buffing balls made for polishing along with corresponding mandrels for attaching same to a hand held drill will work on most of the rest. Hand polishing with a soft cloth, even a SOFT paper towel and polishing compounds will get to the tight spots. A Dermal tool would be nice. You will learn as you go as to what works best.

Keep in mind, buffing is done on an already prepared smooth surface. To get to that point, good old sand/emery paper from coarse (80) progressively to very fine (400, 600, 800, even all the way to crocus cloth if you get ambitious) will prepare the surface so that a coarse polishing compound will be effective, followed by finer compounds all the way to jewelers rouge. A final hand polishing with Semichrome or other similar product will put on a protective film to prevent oxidizing. Regular re-polishing with Semichrome will keep the shine. Remember, a polished surface theoretically has no pits or uneven surfaces on order to get maximum reflectance.

Trust me, you will become one with your parts Grasshopper. You will be proud of your accomplishment. You will have money in your pocket for another beer. Your arms will be too sore to lift that beer, but you will be smiling.

Once you have mastered this, it's on to PORT and polish. That's when the fun begins, but keep it down to 80 grit please (boundary layer and all that).

Steel items, send them out for chrome (request triple plate, more durable over time), although polishing them to about 600 and cleaning up the edges before they go out will make for a better job. Except for the shine, make them look like the way you want to see them come back. DON'T RELY ON THE CHROMER. Those guys work hard and get tired.

Hi.

any ordinary polishing is destroyed by anodising!

The boundary layer between oxide and aluminum is rough despite the original surface was polished.

There was a specialised anodising available in old times for protection of light reflectors but I fear that now everybody does vacuum coating.

RHABE

My Eaton supercharger is finished in dull black to give maximum emissivity. You have to decide whether the finish is for show, or for go.

Dont waste your time polishing (except if the original finish was sand casting) to a high shine if your going to anoside your product.

The first step in anodising the Aluminium is to drop it in to a acid bath to etch and clean the metal, then into the electrolysis bath for anodising.

most of your hard polishing work will dissapear in the acid bath (as I found out when I polished some Aluminium plates, then saw the difference after they were anodised)

If your going ahead with the anodising process, make sure the aluminium grade is suitable for anodising, you'd hate to send your expensive S/C for anodising, and not get back what you expected

Generally, people will polish them, and leave them in that condition, the oxide layer will protect them, also a nice aluminium polish will also help

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Just sand blast the thing to remove powder coating. One thing to note, anodized part will not conduct electricity. The oxide became insulator. So if you need to ground the part, you'll need to remove the anodize on the surface.