2000 chevy cavalier won't start

Does it crank - turn over - when you turn the key? If it does, the starter is OK. If you suspect the battery of alternator you can jump it from another car.

Maybe a dead fuel pump or clogged fuel filter. Have him pull out one of the injectors - if it has injectors, or a fuel line and see if gas is coming out when you crank the engine.

Also, could be electrical - check all the wires from the battery to the ignition system and spark plugs. Make sure the connectors still have good metal in them.

Amy,

If you don't have access to a dependable mechanic, mechanical friend, or repair facility that you trust, you need a good repair manual; maybe a Chilton or Haynes Repair Manual that covers this particular vehicle. You can probably find a Haynes at your nearest AutoZone, Nationwise or similar auto parts store for around $25. The troubleshooting sections would be particularly helpful in this case. (You might also find similar repair manuals in your local public library reference section).

Another resource you might check is online user groups. I haven't checked but there is probably one or more that discusses problems with Cavaliers. Does your local high school or trade school have an auto mechanics program? They usually like to tackle problems like this.

It's difficult to diagnose an automotive problem remotely; "sounds like it is going to start but it just goes out" can be anything from a timing belt to other fuel, electrical, or ignition problems (including the ignition switch) or even a clogged catalytic converter or air filter.

Before arbitrarily replacing starters, alternators, etc. in the future, have them tested to make sure they are defective. It'll save you a lot of time and unnecessary expense. Most auto parts stores have the equipment and will test them at no cost to you. In the case of the junk yard alternator, you might have them both tested because the one you replaced may be in better condition than the replacement.

Sorry I cannot be of more help.

Good luck.

Any help is great... i was researching it on the internet and i really didn't think anyone would reply so thank you so much i am going to have justin(my son) read this as soon as i pick him up from work.... when i said it just goes out it sounds like its out of gas like it turns over and everything it just won't start. do you know where the fuel filter is in a cavalier??? thanks again.......

For more detailed help, let us know what year the car was made, what size engine is in the car.

Next is safety. don't just pull the gas line and then crank the engine, if nothing is wrong, gas will spill all over the engine ( not a good thing ) be sure you have the hose in buck or can.

To check and see of your getting spark, don't hold a wire, remove a spark plug, then plug the spart plug back into the wire and lay it on the engine block. Have someone turn the engine over while you or your son looks for a spark at the end of the spark plug. (again, don't be holding that in your hand.)

If you are getting spark, you can rule out anything electrical.

if your getting gas you can rule out a plugged line.

You need to keep doing this until you find the problem

Let us know what you find out.

its a 2000 chey cavalier thats really all i know .... you all are amazing THANK YOU SO MUCH .....he is out working on it right now going by what everyone says on here ..Ok one of my neighbors said that it is still getting spark but it doesn't seem to be getting any fuel does anyone know where the fuel filter and fuel pump is????? again i can't thank you enough....

Amy

I'm like you (know almost nothing about cars), but, I used to have one which: if it ran out of gas needed more than one standard refill can (5 liters about 1 and a third US gallons) to "re-prime" the fuel pump.

Hello Amy, there was a thread just few days ago about a chevy cavalier with hard starting, there was quit a bit of info that may help and some photos on were some items were located.

Strange starts for 2000 chevy cavalier

I hope this helps.

As some of the others have suggested a manual can help.

Charles

What city/state are you in? There may be someone on here that reads this and close enough and willing to help.

Baltimore Maryland Overlea We have tired everything its just the craziest thing we thought it was the battery took the old battery to battery warehouse they said it was bad so we bought an new one and the lights are brighter but the car just won't start.. and now the check engine light came on ..... My son has done some damage to the car since he got it you know 18 first car but he hasn't messed with the motor so who the heck knows ... but really God Bless everyone on this site ya' all have been so very very helpful...I'll have him read all of this when he gets home from work.. Again God Bless you all...

Amy

"My son has done some damage to the car since he got it you know 18 first car but he hasn't messed with the motor so who the heck knows ..."

Is it possible that he has removed / replaced any vacuum hoses? Loosened clamps on some? Even bumped one and had the dried-out hose crack open? A leak almost anywhere in the system can prevent starting, because sensors will give incorrect information to the fuel injection control system. This may also apply to the fuel cap, as someone else has noted.

remove the air filter and pour about a cup of gas down the throttle body (the thingie that looks like the carbarator) the see if it will start------if it tries to start then most likely you will ned to replace the fuel pump. you might find it in the fuel tank, after you lower it from the car -----sounds like a pain in the ho ho , it is

Some vehicles (like my VW Jetta), actually have a nice cover with three screws in the trunk that allow you to pull the fuel level sensor and transfer pump assembly without going through the bother of dropping the tank. From everything I read, I might agree that given spark is good, the fuel pump may have gone south. By the way, I wouldn't pour a cup of gas down the throttle body, that sounds like a fireball waiting to happen. At most, an ounce or two should give you an indication. A better method would be to buy a can of starting fluid (ether) and spray that in the intake while cranking. If it starts to run, albeit roughly no doubt, then it's time to look at the fuel system. If the car has over 100,000 miles, the fuel pump is a likely suspect. My Jetta fuel pump failed at about 180,000 miles. I wouldn't bother with the fuel filter right now because even the most gummed up, clogged filter will allow at least enough fuel to get started. It might not climb a hill worth a darn, but it will start. Parts stores love to sell filters but that rarely solves a problem. Let us know how you do on your quest for an answer.

I used to sell cars for a Dodge, BMW and Suzuki dealership.

We had three Chevy Cavaliers on the lot that were hard to start. We had to spend about 30 minutes each morning to get them started. Once we got them started and let them run for a little bit, they would start up alright for the rest of the day.

Three out of Three Cavalier survey says that Cavaliers were not the kind of car that I wanted to buy. The manager would offer a bonus to anyone that could sell any of them. We could not find a buyer. People avoided them like the plague. Even people that you would least suspect would have any car savvy avoided them because of their bad reputation.

Amy,

Most likely the fuel filter is along the vehicle frame underneath the vehicle. The fuel pump is most likely in the fuel tank as part of the fuel pickup assembly and the fuel level mechanism. This vehicle will also have a fuel pump relay in the fuse/relay box which will be under the hood mounted probably on the left side fender well. The fuel pump relay failing is a common problem for this type of situation. Especially if the vehicle seemed to be fine, was parked and then the next time would not start.

One other point from a safety perspective, should someone need to get under the vehicle:

1. Set the park brake and block the wheels.

2. Use a good jack on a flat hard surface and aligned with a place on the vehicle so that it will not easily slip or move.

3. Use jack stands to support the car after it has been lifted. Make sure they are on a hard flat surface and positioned so the will not easily slip or move.

Just a little heads up....I own a 2000 cav and have had troubles in the past with starting. A thing to check would be to make sure your gas cap is on properly. If it is not on right the car will not start. If you do have the cap on right you might want to buy a new one which is a cheap fix if it works. Note: this fix is listed in your owners manual.

Have you replace the fuel filter or fuel pump yet. Could be the problem.

First question. What changed since the vehicle worked correctly? If nothing has changed, continue. If anything has changed, try to retrace those steps.

This car has an electric fuel pump. protected by a fuse, and switched by a relay. Try this. Put a glass on the side of the car as near to the fuel tank as possible. Turn the ignition switch from the OFF position to the ON or run position. NOT the start position. Have your son or someone listenwith the glass for the fuel pump. It should make a whirring sound when it is running. The pump is designed to turn on when the ignition switch is first turned on. this will last for only about about three seconds, but will repeat each time that you turn the switch to the ON or run position. If the pump runs, change the filter. If not check the fuses. Find the fuse for the fuel pump. If you are not sure of weather the fuse is any good, substitute. Take a fuse of the same capacity, (that is 20, or 15 etc.) from an item that is still working (use the heater air conditioner fan fuse, you can always hear when the fan is running)and substitute it for the fuel pump fuse. If the pump starts to run now you have fixed it. If not send more posts. Good luck

Am I really reading all this?

Meaning no disrespect, Amy, but it seems to me that part of "getting" that first car should include getting accustomed to the responsibilites and problems that go with owning (or being given the use of) a car; Mother's help with buying the car ought to buy her out of repairing the car. And I very much doubt that anyone trying to help you here ever went to Mom to keep their car running (other than for gas money)!

I would also offer, that an 18-year-old in Baltimore--no less so in Overlea--is not above getting hands dirty and even a few scraped knuckles...if driving (and becoming independent) is at all important to him.

So I would recommend Mom's spending just a little more money...to buy the boy the specific repair manual (Haynes/Chilton....whatever) for his 2000 Chevy car (Balmer has Pep Boys and Pep Boys has manuals), and put him to work fixing the problem. (The manual will also list basic tools that he might also need.) He can start out by following the procedures to do a basic tune-up...and systems checkout following the manual trouble shooting guides. He can also read up on and become familiar with basic automotive systems. (He might learn that learning about cars, and gaining mastery over "his" car, can be fun.)

It might well be that he will find the specific (or more likely) problem...and we will be happily willing to help by offering specific answers to specific questions he might come up with. (Surely you realize, that simply saying, "My car doesn't work," and expecting to repair it by chatting with strangers online, is not a very efficient, or effective, means to a solving such a problem; and, whatever either of you could learn here in several weeks or months can be learned from the manual in a matter of days, or hours. (And you both would get a valuable lesson, to boot, in using the Internet (and this site) effectively to help solve car problems.)

You might also find yourself unexpectedly lucky, if he is able to narrow down the problem (that is, eliminate what's not broke)...enough so that you only need to help him buy replacement parts; or, be able to pay a service shop only to do the repair, not the repair and the troubleshooting (and help avoiding payment for unneeded repairs, as well).

Another benefit to you both will come when he learns to keep the car maintained...before it breaks and requires expensive service.

So, you could consider a better overall approach: making this a learning opportunity for Junior, not a frustration handling exercise for Mom. And, if you drive too...what better reward for your efforts than having bred and cultivated "your own little mechanic"?

You deserve that GA. I could not imagine going to my local hang out at 18 and saying "My car is broke. I'm waiting for my mommy to fix it."

Amy I will be glad to help you in any way I can. But after three grown daughters I still preach to them. "If it does not cost enough, it has no value. My oldest girl did not value the free car I gave her. (an early Chrysler K car) After she overheated it and blew the head gasket I forced her to clean every part that I removed from the car. Three weeks without a car and dirty hands put some value to the car. Good luck.

First of all he is not waiting for mommy to fix it we as a team are trying to fix it he has been out there everyday trying every thing we have read and ask about. we have narrowed it down to the fuel pump . he is now waiting to get paid on wed to get a new fuel pump. I asked for help because to be honest he knows about soccer and

Environmental science and i know nothing about cars. some one suggested this site to help us figure it out.. so its not waiting for mommy its not knowing anything we bought the book you all suggested and like i said he has narrowed it down to the fuel pump and he gets paid on weds so he can't do anything till than because i won't pay to fix it for him... but i will help him work on his car we cleaned all the wires and looked for the gray one like some one suggested and that didn't work ... this was for help. and information i sell jewerly and if you wanted help for figuring out if you were purchasing a good stone would you not ask for help questions suggestions ... what to look for what to ask or would you just go out and spend thousands of dollars and end up with a piece of poop stone ...and one more thing i really loved this site i thought everyone was amazing. and thanks to this site we have figured out the fuel pump

and to just to claify one more thing he purchased the car he pays his own insurance he bought the new battery the new starter and the alternator which he went to crazy rays took if off and put it on his self we just don't know any body that knows anything about cars ..... so this really was just a Mom trying to help her son figure out how to fix his car.... and learn everything i could about his car. so bottom line he bought a car off of craigslist did a few silly things that kids do like make it sound loud and like i said its not the best car but its what he could afford.. so everything about the car he has done on his own .. i am just trying to help him out because i don't have the money and neither does he to go to a car shop and get charged alot of money that neither one of us has we are a pay check to pay check family ... and to be honest if i had the money i would buy him new car because he deserves it he works every day goes to night school studying sports business and he is doing it all on his own. he is a good kid. so thank you all for your help like i said hopefully by thursday he car is up and running with a new fuel pump..

Amy

Good feedback, Amy - thanks! Of course you know that there's just one more piece of feedback information we'll all want to see, right? The one that reports success.

Starting from scratch to learn how to do repairs is a very tough way to do it. I was lucky, growing up in a family where dad repaired his own car, and I learned the ropes very young. Still do my own cars today, 60+ years since I can first remember cleaning parts for dad as he worked. If your local community college, high school, or other facility has evening classes in auto repair, consider trying to attend a "basics" course. They're usually quite cheap, and could easily pay back their cost on the next repair. The downside is that cars are becoming less repairable for the do-it-yourselfer, requiring specialized electronic diagnostic systems in place of putting a light bulb into the circuit to see if there's power when you actuate a switch (you may be able to do it for, say, power to the fuel pump, though!).

For anyone who isn't familiar with the Baltimore area, Crazy Ray's is a pick-a-part junk ya . . ., I mean a self-service automotive recycling facility.

I'm sorry if my sarcasm has offended you. I did not wish to offend you or your son. I offered what I think were positive ways to help diagnose your problem. I hope you will accept my apology and wish you and your son good luck.

well here's and update replaced fuel pump fuel filter and still nothing.. we are now at a complete loss have replaced battery and starter it starts and than just dies won't stay running. i don't know how else to explain it .... we have read and done everything we can think of check all the fuses i just don't know ... we are at a complete stand still.. till next week i guess and next pay.. he spent everything on the fuel pump and filter and some harness thing.. God Bless ya' all sorry i couldn't report better news....... And thank you so much for your help....

"it starts and then just dies won't stay running. I don't know how else to explain it ...."

Does the Cavalier have a ballast resistor in series with the coil? Many cars have had a coil that will work on about 8 volts; a resistor drops the battery voltage so that the coil doesn't burn out. But during starting, the ballast is bypassed, feeding full battery voltage to the coil, which means getting full spark even in winter when the combination of cold and cranking amperage has reduced available voltage. If the car has a single coil (many today have one per cylinder, or one per two cylinders, and this will not apply, likely), the low-voltage lead to it may look "fat" because it is the resistor (older cars typically had a white ceramic object on the firewall for this function). Try to see if it has continuity from end to end; if not, replace it. You will need tp purchase the part from a dealer or auto parts place; it is NOT just a wire! The usual symptom is that the car will start, but die as soon as the key is released from the starting mode. Another test may be to hook a voltmeter to the low-voltage side of the coil, referenced to ground; if there is 12 volts when the key is turned to "Start", but it drops off to nothing when the key is in "Run", same thing: replace that wire or resistor. The "hidden" (resistance wire) ballasts are sometime hard to even find, much less diagnose. A bad key switch can give the same results. Ford has had some vehicles with a second switch mounted on top of the steering column behind the dashboard, sometimes almost to the floor, with a rod linkage to the key mechanism. When it fails, it can present similar results, often intermittently; I do not know if GM has used a similar device.

General Motors gave up the resistor circuit when they brought out their HEI electronic ignitions in 74-75. The ignition switch concern is very valid, I just chose to have them chase the fuel circuits first because they have just been through it with the fuel pump replacement, and much of the items needing testing they have located already. GM's ignition switch is also mounted on the steering column, connected by the same long rod. On GMs it is deliberately mounted on the top of the column in a very hard to access location. Good thoughts though.

Let me try to get to the bottom of this. starts and than just dies won't stay running. If you did not let go of the starter, but instead stepped on the gas, would the engine speed increase? Try this for a five second period.

If that causes the engine to run faster than when on the starter alone, that is a good sign. This vehicle has a switch that will not allow the fuel pump to run unless there is oil pressure. The fuel pump relay is used only to start this car.

This vehicle has a fuel pump test lead under the hood. It is red in color. It is at the rear of the driver's side front shock absorber tower. There should be about six inches of the wire sticking out of the harness. The end of the red wire has a black plastic terminal protector over it. The terminal is the type that slides over a 1/4" flat male "spade" terminal. If you run a jumper wire with a 10 amp fuse in it to this red wire, the car should run. If it does, you have a problem in the oil pressure switch circuit.

This oil pressure switch circuit starts at the 20 amp "fuel control fuse". That fuse is not in the fuse panel, it should be under the hood, behind the passenger front shock tower. Look for the orange wire in and out of a small black plastic housing, 1"x1.5"x 1/2". Test this fuse next. From the fuse it then runs through an orange wire to the oil pressure switch. After the oil pressure switch the wire is now tan with a white tracer on it. That wire runs all the way to the in tank fuel pump. One of the wires you connected to your new fuel pump was tan /white. Somewhere between the oil pressure switch and the fuel pump, there is another tan/white wire that joins your tan/white wire this additional wire is used to allow the fuel pump relay to turn on the fuel pump while starting.

I hope that I have made this test procedure easy for you to understand. If you and your son were able to change the fuel pump, this part is nothing. Please let me know what you find. Good luck.

moron.........she needs help not preaching to...idiot

Hey Mr. no balls to sign your name, I have offered solutions to repairing the vehicle. Both before and after the post you found so wrong. What have you done to make the situation better?

Are you serious?

Hi Amy,

I have a 2000 Cavalier, and your problem sounds familiar.... it sounds like a fuel pump issue. The fuel pump is electric. As you turn the key, one notch before starting it, you should hear a whirring sound. That is the fuel pump turning on. If you hear nothing, the fuel pump needs replacing. If the pump is turning on, but the car still won't start, try banging on the bottom of the plastic gas tank with a rubber mallet while someone else tries to start the car. That should get it done.

Good luck!

No one has suggested timing belt yet. Remote, but possible.

I hate working on cars when it's cold, hope you 're inside.

hey, i'm not sure if you got your 2000 cavalier fixed yet since its been several months, but I was just having the same issue & my mechanic replaced the fuel pressure regulator which is basically right below the air filter housing) & the module (which is in the circuit box under the hood) and my car has run excellent & wow did the mileage improve!

I have read all of these post and am quite perplexed. I own a 1996 Cavalier and have had it for the past 9 years. I have had every possible thing go wrong with this car from the head gasket, fuel injectors, alternator, starter, engine, radiator, oil leak, water pump, thermostat, etc in a nut shell when you pop the hood everything is new (Sad but True). With that being said if you get into your cavalier and all the lights come on but it won't turn over and there is nothing wrong with your starter, head gasket or alternator THEN put your car in neutral and turn the key. It will start right up. I learned that one the hard way. It's happens when you arm your anti-theft system usually because you locked the wheel, got into your car and tried to start it twice before unlocking your steering wheel.

you might have a bad crank sensor...............if your crank sensor is not reading the crank position the vehicle will crank but won't start. good luck.

I have a similar problem with the same car. Only one difference, when I turn the key I hear some noise very quiet under the hood but not even a sparkle and of course the car won't start. Tried to switch starter but still won't work. Is it possible that machine died, or it is something else?

Have a 96 w/ simular issue(s). Have you resolved yours??? Sadly, this car didnt qualify for Cash 4 Clunkers...go figure! The SEALED tranny on my car began slipping at hiway speeds. There is NO dipstick on this model so I never could check it. After sitting for a few days, had turn over, but no start, issue. Checked spark w/ test lights - OK. could hear fuel pump run and cycled key(off, run) several times to REALLY prime the fuel log. Checked fuel cap-ok. Decided to spray Ether into throttle body and it fired up-yeah... put 4-sale sign on it! Let sit for about a week and can't get to stay running w/o a constant "misting" of ether - dangerous - 1 fire already!!. will by pass filter for the heck of it. Just odd that it ran AND DROVE (w/tranny slipage) before second round of this B.S. Just want to drive it to a dealer for trade in. Anyone need a parts car.... CHEAP??

Thanks and good luck if you still have your project.

RC

Any

YOUR CAR KNOWS.

Try turning the key to the run position (till all dash lights come on but just before the engine begans to crank ) you should here a hum for about 1 second from the rear of the car (fuel tank) this would be the fuel pump priming. If you do not here a hum then check first fuel pump fuse then check fuel pump cut off switch , check owners manual for location, this can be reset, then check fuel pump relay, sometimes A/C relay is the same and you can switch them around. If all that fails your fuel pump is lickly bad.

Hi Amy, did your son get his car fixed? I am experiencing the same issue with my cavalier. I have the exact same symptoms as you reported... I can hear the fuel pump come on when I turn the key, this tells me the pump is working. I was told form a few sources that it is the fuel pump, but I am not too convinced that it is... but then again!

My issue started about a year ago, I would be driving to work and all of a sudden, I get this light jerk and a mile later, the car would shut off. Let it sit for a few minutes or banging in the tank, would get it going again. Does this mean that it is the fuel pump? Does any know how to test the Fuel Pressure Regulator?

Dear guest. Would it be possible for you to change the clutch in my S10 pick up?

Hi Amy

I'm sure you have either figured it out already or gotten rid of the car but im quite sertain that your problem is your catalytic converter. Those cars have a oxygen sensor behind the resonator and if the car has high miles on it the catalytic converter have most likely failed. Replacing it should fix your problem.