arresting the washer or spacer in groove

You have to give more specifics to get a very specific answer. But, some general ideas are these:

You can deform the lip of the recess by rolling (or stamping?) after the washer is inserted.

You can use an expanding washer (something like an e ring).

Circlip

Drill a hole on the main body, tap and insert a bolt so the head will overlap into the hole (3 of these should be enough)

Try (typical shown) a...

It's called a "circlip", or "spring washer" and they come in several designs for various purposes.

sorry, i had not given the full information. i have to use copper continious washer for industrial purpose.

Thank you

TED FIGGINS Said use A Deckel KF-12 Machine and trace a special copied radius to fit with .002 US clearance.

i agree with previous posts. circlips. i designed in so many of these in 30 years on the board. the instructions on groove dimensions in the back are exact, easy to understand, always work.

sorry, i had not given the full information. i have to use copper continious washer for industrial purpose.

Thank you

ok, so, back to the drawing board. please tell about the shaft that this washer/groove is to be mounted on? is it steel or copper? what diameter, solid or tube? how big of a washer? what is the function of the assembly?

joe :o)

This is the brass tube where the copper washer has to be arrest. it has to be positioned between the thread and hexagon structure. the outer dia of thread is 14mm. the thickness of wall of thread is 3.3 mm. the inner dia of washer would be 14 mm to 14.4 & outer dia should be 14.6.

I also found an idea. i took 2 metal block and made 2 staped half circle groove on the side of each block. one will fit on washer & other will fit on thread. after mounting the washer on component this 2 block will apply pressure from both side horizontally and the washer dia will reduce.

U pls suggest if some thing else in ur mind.

Thank U for ur response.

pantosh pawan,

ok, i have one more thing to try.make your copper washer so that it has about a .005 to ,010 inches of interference with the threads that it is supposed to glide over. in other words it won't go on. this is an interference fit. you might even be able to go as high 15 thousands of inch of interference. then put the threaded piece in the freezer. after a few hours, take the washer and put it in a flame or oven and heat it up until it is really hot, but not melting. then slide the washer over the frozen threads into place. when everything warms up/cools down, the washer will not come off without tremendous force being applied. this is how older bmw motorcycles are put together. they tell you what temperatures the two parts need to be for them to fit together.. good luck and let us know what you try and how successful you are.

joe

Reduce the ID of the washer and thread the ID so you screw the washer on to the thread then on to the end of the flange,

If its not a chemical/heat issue, use a Teflon washer, or fiber washer with either threaded or interfearance fit as mentioned above.

Use an e-ring or a washer with a e-ring on each side.

Thanks for ur respond