Bolts and Nuts-The Worst Applications Ever.

Bolts used for any attachment that is inaccessible from either (or both) end - can't reach the #*%$&@) ferschlugginer nut!!!

Plus bolts that are (mis)used for replacing any other piece of hardware or equipment.

Stainless steel bolts and nuts in pretty much any application. If I get near one it WILL always Gal no matter what I do. This does not include screws though, I have seen very good applications for s/s wood/metal screws. Also s/s bolts work well with carbon steel nuts and vise versa but s/s bolts and s/s nuts hate me. Also any skid wear plates are not the place for bolts/nuts as they will nearly always wear down so a wrench won't fit the darn things. My general solution for most wear plates is to weld the heck out of them as my name might imply. Any of the lower grade wood screws from Lowes or Home Depot are guaranteed to wallow out the first time the screwdriver slips. looks like someone would figure this out and make the heads a little harder for heavens sake.

pipewelder

Most of the nuts and bolts on my old dirt bikes...

They only vibrate and rattle out anyways, I just replace them with bailing wire, zip ties and duct tape (depending on the strength required).

Must be a KAWI..worlds largest vibratory jogger disguised as a dirt bike.

Re-tapping to standard thread, using allen head bolts and red loc-tite will keep them in place a little longer.

A nut welded to the center motor support, with a bolt theaded into it,wedging the thru-bolt also helps.

Good luck with the dirt bikes!

Actually they are old Mid 80's Hondas. A CR 250 and an XLR 250. I have already drilled out and put inserts in many places.

It was just my stab at being funny:)

My complaint is about the T-studs on the Clausing Colchester 15" lathe compound rest. We purchased 7 of these lathes in 2002. The factory bolts and nuts were too soft and would strip out easily. This was with the factory supplied wrench about 6 inches long. Unable to unscrew them I had to use a die grinder with a cut off wheel. Lots of wasted time. While the machines were under warranty we would return the old ones and they would send use replacements. After the warranty was over I found out that they were around $70.00. I do not remeber if that was for the set of 4 or just one. It has been to long ago. I started making my own out of O-1 drill rod. I changed the head design and the thread type. I went with the closest size English thread in a fine pitch. I also changed to harder washers and nuts to match the heat treated studs. I went from a daily routine of cutting off nuts to replacing a few each year. It took some trial and error to tweak the heat treating process for the application. Most of the time I only have to replace the nut. The threads from the nut are "unscrewed" from the stud and the stud is reused. I ended up with a double draw process that has worked out well. When it was all said and done the sales rep wanted to take one back so their engineers could look at it. I politely said no. Yes that was closed minded of me but why should I be doing their R&D work for free?

So don't do it for free - ask how exorbitant a fee he is willing to pay you for one!

Another missed opportunity.

GA from me.

I have lived similar situations many times over. It has just been on a smaller scale. The B/S and politics to get things done can be flat out stupid.

Try using a case hardened bolt with jamb nut. Works well on rotating equipment with electric brakes.