Clutch Plate

Two components are involved, the clutch plate and the clutch that works against it.

Terminology varies but I'll use yours. I'm sure others will add localized terms.

Generally (that one always gets me in trouble!) one wants to change the clutch before any damage is done to the clutch plate. With enough clutch wear, the rivets holding the material to the clutch dig into and ruin the clutch plate.

IF you are confident the plate is already damaged (jerking is a bad sign - but grinding on engagement is a further) AND you have reason to hold off, the damage is effectively done.

It CAN be run clean into the dirt until the small parts start falling out.

Not recommended, but that isn't what you asked.

On the 4th,5th gear it's not and you might be wright on not being the clutch,cause it could be the carb and compressor with the control fro the fuel is in.Does this sound wright? Thanks

"use until my car halts"... I have done this on old pick-ups around my little ranch with no problem, BUT you don't want to do this with something you commute with. On the public roads this practice could conceivably cost you much more than a planned repair.

Don't forget to go a few dollars more to have the Flywheel re-faced at your local machine shop.

I need a little more information.

1. Auto model?

2. If you do a drag race hole shot, does it jerk and slip?

1.Manual Model 1.3cc. 2.Yes, when dragged it jerks. Thanks.

It appears the clutch is near the end of its life and must be replaced soon. Are your certain the slipping problem is caused by the pressure plate & not the clutch disk or oil on the disk? The problem is most likely both are worn. When ever a clutch begins to slip you should replace the pressure plate & disk and machine the flywheel at the same time. The pressure plate should be replaced because it becomes grooved and worn in use and the springs may be weak. The flywheel should be machined because it will become grooved and tapered in use.

The clutch may also slip if the rear main seal on the crankshaft or the input shaft seal on the transmission are worn and leaking. It is a good idea to replace both seals when the transmission and clutch have been removed.

The labor required to replace a clutch is so great that it is foolish not to replace all the following parts: disk, pressure plate, rear main oil seal, transmission input shaft seal, pilot bearing and throw-out bearing.

Dennis Waller

And verify that the clutch fork fulcrum is in usable condition. Since its breakage can't be easily predicted, if the vehicle is high mileage, change it too while you are there.

You might look at the vehicle as not valuable enough to justify such a costly "clutch system" rebuild but think of it this way. It's not like the clutch exploded and destroyed the transmission case and engine block as well. What you have is a wear and tear item that YOU wore out, just like brakes, belts, timing chains, water pumps, etc. As long as the engine isn't pumping out oil, the fenders aren't flapping in the wind and directional stability is at least one level or so above vague, the vehicle is still basic transportation worthy of repairs. Make it stop, make it steer, make it go, make it look good in that order.

Excellent advise Jaguar; we often forget the little things when viewing the bigger picture from afar.

Your comments are spoken like any workshop manager or service supervisor anywhere in the world would state........ your final comments are so true when it comes to maintenance of anything that has wheels.

Keep up the sensible viewpoints and good advise.

Paul Bryan-Brown

Dear frend if that problem is at every time you shift gears may gear no 2 nd 3rd ,4th...than it shud b changed ,but as said by u it happens only while shifting to 2nd gear than that must be lever ball socket problem ,or 2nd gear is cracked or blunt (accidentaly), sometimes clutch springs ulso get detemperd and doesnt function properly...shift gear to neutral and and check the engine is still engaged or jam with clutches, ...if so reset ur pressure plates...

try to drive up, towards hilly road direct from neutral to 3rd gear if it bears a load then cluthches are ok .....only for trial for ten feets ....distance ...

Thanks Guys for the previous info, I just would like to ask you guys that is it possible it could not be the case/cause (clutch) matter and could be something else.I did check with my local mechanic,he said the same thing, change the whole set for $300 (not USD) and i just told him i will check some other place first. Is it possible that the carburetor or the a/c compressor which is connected to the carburetor needs some adjustment? Thanks Patrick

metal master eng stated the correct procedure for anyone to test the clutch, stop on a fairly steep incline and try to start out in third gear. Any slipping or chatter indicates either a worn disc (thin friction material) or weak pressure plate springs. If it passes this ten second FREE test (no longer or you could glaze a serviceable disc), then search further. You don't want to throw time and money at a problem that may not exist in hopes of avoiding something obvious.

As far as it being a carburetor related problem, I don't see an internal problem that would be specific to rpm and gear selection as long as you are not lugging the engine at very low rpm. What you may have is a damaged vacuum hose that doesn't allow the ignition to be at the correct advance at that rpm and load. The cheap "throw money at it" fix, and a good preventive maintenance procedure for any high milage vehicle, would be to change ALL the small vacuum hoses. $10 and one hour should do it.

In the past, I've had a problem with an ignition pick-up module (inductive pick-up) that would cut out when pulling from a stop after it warmed up. Once it cooled and I got rolling it operated fine until I had to stop again. It was a LONG ride home.

change the pressure plate not the clutch. Get a stronger pressure plate.