Unpaved Road Stabilization with pine derivatives

All over Oklahoma and Texas we used a petroleum byproduct that achieved the same effect. It did get quite slippery when wet, but knocked the dust to nothing and held the roadbed together very nicely.

I would think something made of pine pitch would work just as well, but regrettably have no knowledge of such a product.

Arizona has a similar problem in that we have many gravel/dirt roads and the EPA is beating us about the head and shoulders about our particulate levels.

I'll look forward to the answers you get.

I would not use a petroleum product on open ground exposed to surface run off, unless you feel you can afford the risk and cost of a future clean up or a closed stormwater collection system for runoff (discharges to settling ponds). There is a pine pitch product out there, we looked into it a few years back for a similar surfacing of a ditrt road to a remediation project (as sprayed petroleum products like we had used in the past were not allowable if the surface runoff discharged directly to waters of the US). This was about 10 years ago, and at that time the cost was not worth it in relation to gravel repairs. Such products have to be re-applied regularly, and as i recall the frequency the distributor recommended was what made the product not cost effective relative to a gravel base. Additionally, the application apparently did nothing to improve the strength of the road surface once the soil got wet, where as gravel does make a stronger surface in wet conditions. It would have essentially performed as a dust control agent allowing us to apply gravel less frequently in our end analysis.

sounds expensive

I do not know about the pine derivitives but I can tell you many amazing stories about both single component urethanes such as www.mountaingrout.com product is hydro-active and is called soil stab.

Also an enzyme product at www.xzyme.com

Both are amazing. The enzyme product is cheaper for large projects

Stabilized a road have many dependable things: length, "Loads", width, slope, etc. the cheapest way to stabilized is using lime... mixing with the existing materials and compact... must be humedifier for a couples of day... really easy and cheap... If you want something more durable, you must use asphalt (anyhow)

Thank you Pat. Your comments are very much appreciated. Soil toxicity is a big issue as our plans are to plant more blueberries in a terraced environment between some new roads. You make a good sense when you spoke of water quality. Our property is blessed with springs that feed creeks that eventually feed registered trout streams. Your advice concerning a certificate of analysis is certainly understood. We always provide our customers with coa against a batch number. We are in the raw materials/ingredients business. Often a potential customer will tell us they have found a particular ingredient such as garlic oil at a better price. After a little discussion it comes to the surface that we proposed a grade suitable for their application where as their purchasing agent found a generic garlic oil at a better price. Just like apples not all garlic oil is the same.

Thanks again for your information and I will make visit your website.

Jim

look at all of the websites. only one given so far is nsf 61 that means it is approved for direct contact to drinking water.

'I am not selling anything so I will let you determine which one

Try to find Army surplus aircraft landing grates used to build airfields and to stabilize roads. These may be good for you. Less expensive than asphalt, which needs a base and probably better. Also consider chipping some of the brush found locally or try to obtain free woodchips from the state, county, or local utilities that trim trees.

Good Day,

Having lived in the back country of Oregon, i definitly hear your question.

The only gravel that worked for the long term this after pouring truckloads into the road.

Is decomposed granite. (period)

once it was used on the road the road stopped being a problem.

road narrow for most equipment after initial keep pouring along edges to widen works everytime. hump and edge till its good enough for your needs.

culverts? try clean earth ten percent cement or ground up volcanic rock mix on spot. dig a trench v shaped across road fill v to flat take a long plastic tube used to hold down tents fill with water pour the rest of the mixture overallow to thouroughly dry once dry empty water and pull out remake your bed road be sure to allow grade for drainage 1/8 to 1/4 inch per foot makes a nice culvert lasts a long time little maintenance as in ten plus years.

also try the mix dry as you distribute the gravel makes a great road.

I agree that the environmental implications must be taken into account. In England the British Horse Society recommend spraying used sump oil over riding surfaces to reduce dust. Great, no dust for a few weeks then loads of carcinogen laden dust for years. Creosote, which is now banned in the UK, is apparently a timber derivative. Is there any risk of pollution from using woodchippings on the road bed.

Simon

Here's a link to several publications you might find useful. I have consulted several of them. The Corps of Engineers and all branches of the military have need of expedited road construction, and they do a LOT of research. A couple of products you might consider are "Road Oyl" and "Soil Sement", both of which can be googled for further info.

http://en.scientificcommons.org/steve_l_webster

Hello Pure and Simple:,

I think this may help. It is a cold spray-on emultion made from tree rosin, for dirt roads and unpaved roads. http://www.midwestind.com/roadoyl.htm Dirt Road Stabilizer and Dust Control with Road Oyl. Treat Unpaved ... ... erosion control requirements, Road Oyl provides a reliable, ... Pine rosin is the residue from distillation of turpentine oil from raw turpentine. ...www.midwestind.com/roadoyl.htm - Cached

Take care and have a great new year........................

What are the stabilization problems that you're encountering? How steep are your roads, and are they outsloped, insloped, crowned, and what is the waterbar spacing on them? Finally, what are they currently surfaced with (the kind of gravel - pit run, crushed angular, % fines) and what type of result are you wanting? Lastly, are your roads hydrologically connected (does the runoff from them discharge) to a watercourse/lake or a drainage facility that discharges to one? These are all things to consider when looking at stabilization measures.