Evinrude Outboard Motor

If there's no water coming out, maybe the impeller that pumps round the water to cool the motor has either broken or the cooling pipes are blocked up! I've changed a few but not on the evinrude! Most are rubber and the fins break off! The impeller is normally situated in the lower part of the boot! I would hold off running it until you are sure the cooling system is working otherwise you will seize the whole engine! If you hang around a bit, I'm sure some of the guys on her will be able to give you a better idea as to the throttle problem but I suspect it could be a gunked up carb which means a strip down and clean! I've only dabbled with a few outboards, a Yamaha 15hp, three 6 cylinder 150hp mercuries and a mercury 50hp with the old style thunderbolt magneto so I'm not really that spec'd up on evinrudes! Anyway, good luck and remember to winterise the thing next time!

I would bet that you have a dirty Carb this is where the fuel goes through before entering the motor, usually when fuel has been left in a motor for a long period of time it becomes like jelly and blocks up some of the little jets. You will need to open up the carb carefully and give it a good clean out, take out the fuel jets and give them a good blow with some high pressure air. This usually does the trick. Old and or dirty fuel is the no 1 problem with boat motors.

Always run the motor in water or with boat "ear muffs" placed on the bottom of the motor, you need the water to keep the motor cool, if no water comes out get the boat shop to check your impeller.

Mally

I have a great interest in engineering subjects and I always study articles and visit the forum. I get the technical details from https://supportprop58.com/microsoft-office-support/

www.marineengine.com

register, look in tree view for evinrude and post your questions there. CR4 is the wrong place for this question.

I've had few Evinrudes that have had that sort of problem. For the Water problem, you need tohave waer going in to get water out. you can use a hose clamp thingy from the boat shop or stick it in a big garbage can full of (fresh) water. The more modern engines can be quite complex however you can still check to see the fuel line is delivering fuel by pumping up the primer and using a screwdriver to depress the little ball that blocks of the end. BE Careful as the fuel will spray everywhere! best to do it outside away from the BBQ! if that is ok have alook to make sure all the little levers and things are still attached, particularly the ones which rotate the magneto around the flywheel at the top. ALSO check to see the choke is not staying on. Evinrudes only need choke on first start up and then for a few seconds. on the older ones the rod used to drop off and leave the choke in the On position drowning the engine.

If it has just been serviced but not used for ages, take it back and get them to give it a once over and make sure it is in fact working still (which you know it isn't) they can use analysers and check it pretty quick and locate any problem. its probably worth it for the peace of mind...

Enjoy your holiday!

Have a mechanic chect it for typical damage from overheating. If that goes well;

Replace the water pump and fuel pump and at the same time have the carb cleaned.

If the water pump was not working then there could be serious damage to the engine, in which case either do the expensive repair or replace it.

I have had several outboards, but none of them were Evinrude. One was Yamaha, one was Force, one was Mariner, and one was Johnson. For the most part they all work the same anyhow. It is curious that no water was coming through when you had the earmuffs on. The pressure from the hose should have been enough to circulate water even if the impeller was defective. I have had to have water pumps replaced twice on different motors and they are simple devices. The other problem I have is when I have gotten into a shallow area and suck mud up into the water line. I usually clean that out by running a small plastic line, like you have on a string trimmer, up the water line to dislodge the mud and then getting water flowing through the line again. It was 17 degrees F below zero at my lake cottage last week and I haven't really tried the motor in a while.

Yes maam, Impeller! You may already know this but make sure you never run that motor out of the water. Impellers are relatively cheap to fix. Im not sure if you have priced new 15 hp motors but wow! they are crazy priced. so keep ahold of that one and have fun with them kids. Also in the winter make sure you suck antifreeze up in it to keep it from freezin. Im not a mamber on here but if you have anymore questions on that write to darrene_hayes@yahoo.com.

Good luck!

Darren

I have been a mechanic for about forty years and have seen this over and over. You store the motor with gas in the Carb and it goes bad. You have no choice but to clean the Carb thoroughly. I would recommend you have someone qualified look at the pump problem as it left alone you could burn up the motor. These are Great motors when working properly. I always run my engine with the gas turned off after a day of boating. It leaves the Carb dry and makes it easier to start next time, or you could use a gas treatment if you plan to leave it stored for an extended period of time

Jay

Ok, I'm a mechanical engineer, does not mean anything really, but I do a fair amount of refurbishment on old and antque Evinrude and Johnson outboards.

Your situation is not uncommon. First thing, you need to next check and see if your old outboard has a ceramic gas filter in it. Those old type filters plug up verry easily over time. The way you determine if you have one is to remove the fitting at the bottom of the gas tank, it will have 2 inch long gold color and real fine cone shape metal filter element. If you do, check buy blowing air through it if it is clogged up, I would suggest change it out and incorporate a modern filter in to the gas line system. You usually can not clear them out.

Now the next thing if that isn't your problem is to check your carburater. Fuel/oil mix today does not stay good for very long, and if it had old fuel in it form when you first used it, it will only start gumming up the carburator. To see if it has had old fuel in it which over time becomes like a sticky gooe in which the carburator won't operate correctly. You need to take the carburator apart and clean the entire thing out (including al internal passages).

These two cycle outboard engines do not use air filters/air cleaners they run with the front of the caburator open to incomming air.

You may want to consider taking it to a Evinrude dealer to have the carburator cleaned and have a new rebuild kit installed. In any event inorder to aviod this problem again is quite simple, the next time you take and use the motor when your done (every time your through using it for the day) have a fuel shut off vale at the tank installed and when your done, turn the gas off and let the motor run until the carburator runs dry of fuel and conks out. Now the next time you use it the carburator will be clean and free from old fuel. Turn the vale on and set the choke it should start right up for you every time.

Also when you put it a way for the season and anfter you run the carburator dry, empty all the fuel out of it so next year you start it up with fresh gas.

Brian

Please make it into a planter/ conversation piece. Old two strokes pollute badly and most lakes here don't even allow them. Bad gas and spark plugs that will fire outside the cylinder then when put under compression...fail. Carry a bag of spark plugs. After teaching small engine repair for 27 years I've seen a lot of rowing. Get a new 4 stroke and save the world.

I am in agreement with possible carb problems, but I would also change the spark plugs. They often will work good in free air but under compression don't. On my race boats new plugs compared to plugs that had just one water skiing trip on them was about 2 miles per hour. Plugs that had been fouled and cleaned were several miles per hour slower, if you could get the engine started. -- JHF

Fisherwoman,

You would be best served to take the motor to a reputable dealer or boat repair shop and let them "fix it right".

That being said;

Check your low and high speed jets for "gunk" (white substance) caused by leaving the engine for long periods of time with fuel in the float bowl. (partial carb dismantle required)

Be sure to count the number of turns on the metering needles and record them if you have to remove them.

Measure the float level (needle in the closed state) and be extra careful not to damage/distort the float in any way.

Once you get the "gunk" cleaned out, the carb back together, and the engine running, always do the following if you want pretty much trouble-free service:

1. Always use a fuel stabilizing additive such as Stabil @.

2. When you are through using the boat at the end of the day, disconnect the fuel line from the motor, make sure the impeller is in the water far enough for the cooling water pump to have suction, then start the motor and let it run until it runs out of fuel and dies/stops.

3. This will drastically reduce the quantity of fuel trapped in the fuel bowl and does wonders to prevent "gunk" buildup especially during long periods of dry storage.

4. Never start and run an outboard or inboard boat motor out of the water unless you have the proper device required to attach your boat motor to a garden hose that can supply enough water flow to keep the engine temperature at a safe level.

5. Never, ever run any engine at full throttle in an unloaded state for any extended period of time as it will cause damage to the engine bearings and could result in the engine failing and/or "coming apart at the seams". (very costly and can be very dangerous)

Good luck and happy fishing,

Jim

If i have this correct , you said the motor ran fine on its initial run ( at the local dam ) after being serviced and after sitting for 12 months .? If so i would say the carb. is ok and probably not gummed up with old fuel. As for the muffs , be sure you attach them properly , they cover the water intake holes just above the bottom end gear housing and not the holes father up ! With the water turned on you should see water streaming from the " pee hole " up at the base of the head unit and after the engine has run to operating temp. the thermostat will open and you will see hot water under pressure coming from the " vent hole " about 3 inches lower down. As said before , dont run the engine very long , "1min." if you see no water coming out anywere !!

As for the no start problem , be sure you have primed the fuel line by squeezing the bulb until it gets hard , pull out choke and try to start . If it dosent start after many pulls try this ... get a can of WD40 ( your hubby should know what this is ), take off the cowling and give a 2 second spray into the air intake and try to start again . The WD40 is a good " starting fluid " for two strokes and works very well , DONT use gas!

One other thing ... if you have to hold down the throttle lever in the motor to start it you might have messed up the tiller throttle control gear timing . WHAT the HELL is that you say ??? This is a common problem with novice small outboard motor " operators " so listen up pilgrim . If you have an older motor with the simple shaft and gear connection between the tillers rotary throttle control and the carb. you can easily mess up the controls simply turning the throttle control while the tiller is in the folded up position. When this happens can drop down the tiller to start the motor but instead of being in the start position as read on the tiller throttle you could actually be at full throttle or any other throttle position !! Fear not ., the fix is simply to raise the tiller to the up position and ensure that the reading on the tiller throttle is in the correct place .

If this all sounds like Chinese to you girl , come back with your questions and i will detail the answers or mabey your hubby would to chat ?!