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Member

Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 8

Insulating perforated metal sheet

01/31/2009 4:21 AM

Hi!

How can I treat a perforated ALU sheet, 1,5 mm thick, 4mm holes, 6 mm c-c and 300x1400 mm in size to make it electrically shockproof? The voltage is around 5 KV AC. I've tried powder coating with Rilsan, which works with 3 layers and the holes almost gone under all the paint. I've tried 2-comp epoxi, it also works but is very time consuming with 3 to 4 ten hour drying periods and clogged holes. The big problem is that the hole edges reject insulation, maybe due to surface tension?

Regards, Jonas Karud

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Guru

Join Date: Oct 2008
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#1

Re: Insulating perforated metal sheet

01/31/2009 10:09 AM

Don't know much about your requirements but there's a product called Parylene which will coat your hole edges the same thickness as the rest of the plate. Don't remember what the insulation resistance is, but it's good, as I recall.

It is vacuum deposited, so there are size limitations. It's not cheap, either.

Google it.

Good luck.

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Anonymous Poster
#2

Re: Insulating perforated metal sheet

01/31/2009 10:47 PM

I would try spraying "plastic dip" ( PLASTI-DIP ) on to it.

it's available everywhere.

it's the same stuff they use to insulate tools for the work force.

it can be brush, dip, or sprayed on.

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Power-User

Join Date: Jun 2008
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#3

Re: Insulating perforated metal sheet

02/01/2009 1:04 AM

You may try either CrO2 or H2SO4 anodising before attempting insulation coating.

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Guru

Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Germany 49° 26' N, 7° 46' O
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#4

Re: Insulating perforated metal sheet

02/01/2009 4:38 AM

Hi,

you have to make the edges round (also any other sharp edge around the plate) because these will produce a much higher electrical field strength and thus breakdown if not rounded.

Prolonged deburring with an abrasive coated brush may be good for this purpose.

Then anodising as proposed but chromium 6 is no longer allowed except for some special applications in aircraft parts.

Try to get a thick and porous anodising, porosity then filled with epoxi.

Material selection is important for good anodising!

Any anodising that is giving good adherence and not too hard coating may be good.

Too hard a coating will easily crack at too sharp edges.

Conformal layers are often done with Parylene but this is expensive. So epoxi may be good too.

With proper selection and proper condition this will cure within seconds to minutes depending on type and temperature.

At CIBA times producing Araldite there was a high temperature curing epoxi (AT1, dry powder, melting at above 90°C, cured at 150 to 300°C) that could be flame sprayed to give insulating layers.

If this is a part where safety of persons may be impaired I would never put this high a voltage on it but change to a totally insulating plastic or ceramic material.

RHABE

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