Bollard Installation

Hi Kcoola,

These ones are not new but work well and depth is a little more than your 6" criteria.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIqlkPhDfwM

Thanks Bob,

I'll have to watch this at home since they block Youtube here at work. I'll check it out.

Would a folding bollard do it? If not you can get the 'coffin' type which fold down into a box sunk in the ground or removeable ones.

I would like to have either one of those but they're over my budget. I need to keep these around $150 to $200 US.

How about these?

nail up magnetic washers wherever u want to install bollards , remove it wenever u want , but make shure ur bollards shud have metalic base to catch magnet woisers nailed on ground without mess of bob the bulilder.....

core drill the concrete to the diameter of a pipe collar to fit bollard diameter. Epoxy the collar in. Thread the end of your bollard and screw it in. Won't take as much punishment at having the bollard completely cemented in. Will give some protection and be able to be removed.

I like this idea but what if the bollard gets hit, won't it damage the threads and prevent the removal?

Weld a square or round flange at the bottom of the bollard, drill a hole in each corner of the flange, drill the concrete and install four concrete anchors, place flanged end of bollard over anchors, bolt to floor. Remove and replace as needed.

You could do it with two holes if it is not a high traffic area without vehicular traffic.

Hope this helps.

( pay no attention to the measurements on the pic.)

HELLO NOT SO SMART, I AM A THIRD GENERATION WELDER/FABRICATER AND THIS EXACTLY HOW WE DO IT ALL THE TIME

How well do these hold up? I would think that if they got hit very hard the bolts would pull out of the concrete...

IF the bolts are large enough and properly embedded deep enough into sound concrete the bolted bollard is OK for light to moderate impacts. The key is sound concrete of sufficient depth, proper diameter anchor bolts, and well embedded at correct depth.

If you hit anything hard enough, it will break.

IN LEIU OF EXPANSION ANCORES YOU COULD EPOXY ALL THREAD IN THE CONCRETE, HILTY HY150 OR RE 500 ARE BOTH GOOD OPTIONS. AND YOU PROBALY WOULD LIKE TO USE A 3/4" DIAMATER ALLTHREAD

We have them in our facility as described in #5 and they work out pretty well. You just need to use a big enough bolt. 3/4" usually does well.

From what I understand, you need 3/4" bolt, 6" embedde, for reasonable strength against a fork truck. With a 6" slab the 6" embedded bolt can not develop full strength. (At least that is what I recall seeing in the Hilti cataalog)

Lets face it, if a fork hits almost any type of embedded bollard in only 6" concrete it is going to knock it over. Best option is to dig out the area to 3' and pour concrete and embed the proper bollard sleeve to 2' or so, but he is asking for the least expensive and easiest way to do it. Anyway, if he is going to make it removable, once it is hit by a fork once, it will never fit correctly again no matter what method or type is used.

From my experience, it won'tstop a fork truck.

I did have some luck with a small contractor coring a 10" hole in the floor. augering about 24-30" into the dirt, putting in a 4-6" dia steel pipe and filling the hole and the pipe with concrete. A post 30" down and 36" above filled with concrete should be good for a 5000 to 6000 pound bump.

Unfortunately, unless you have a lot of posts, the contractor will bust the budget just walking in the door!

And this is not adequate for a semi-trailer or Brave Sir Robin's needs.

Although it is not a "bollard" system, this design might work. It is plastic barriers that are filled with water to become traffic barriers. Light weight while shipping and placing. Heavy when in use. If you saw open the tops, maybe you could use them as aquariums as well.

http://www.roadtraffic-technology.com/contractors/safety/border-barrier/

Good luck.

Do you have the space & budget to use hoops like an inverted 'U' shape or even a 'V' shape with a leg at each of the 3 end points?

I'm thinking that, if you can anticipate the direction from which that the bollard might get hit, the extra fixing points would prevent the bollard from leaning over & levering the bolts out of the ground. Having 2 or more groups of fixings will mean that more of the load is taken in shear.

Like this, with the hoop in line with the anticipated direction of attack.

I guess that the hoop could be narrower than in this picture but if you go too narrow it would not be much better than a single post.

If you had a 'V' shape with 3 points attached to the ground I imagine that it would resist a wider angle of attack.