Chorinated Water

what if you transfer chlorinator to feed directly in a certain point after pressure tank , in such case you can install new parallel line before pressure tank for free chlorine water. i think it may solve your problem

If you are not going to need a large quantity of non chlorinated water, how about connecting a second pump (hand or power) in front of the existing pump. Use a set of check valves to assure the pump that is working at any given time is pulling only from the well.

The existing pump is 140' down in the well.

Can you use a three way valve in front of the clorinater, and a small expansion tank?

That would work, but I was trying to avoid another pressure tank. That is the only acceptable suggestion so far.

We have a pair of small pressure tanks in our work. One on each end of building. No water service in middle. These tanks are only the size of a 20 lb propane tank.

Hello Bob, A couple of ideas. First two parallel pressure tanks with one way check valves on the input side of both tanks. On the output side of the chlorinated tank have a pressure sensor connected to a logic circuit that reads when the pump motor is on and a water valve is opened "pressure drop" with a sensor on the Non-chlorinated tank output side to detect if it is in use also. If it is in use the chlorinator would NOT come on and add chlorine to the the chlorinated water tank.

Second method still uses two tanks this time in series with first tank being the non-chlorine water with a "tee" out and a one way check valve and then a pressure switch then the valve out to use. Then a one way check valve on the input side of the second chlorinated water tank to keep it from back feeding. Then, a pressure switch on the output side of the tank.

Wire the first pressure switch so that when there is pressure on the non-chlorine water "tee" the switch is closed. Then when the chlorinated tank water is opened and the pump motor is working the second pressure switch closes on the pressure drop and the chlorinator receives power through the non-chlorine pressure switch. As soon as the non-chlorine valve is open the pressure switch opens and cuts power to the other switch and the chlorinator therefore keeping it from over dosing the water with low water flow and or from excessive chlorine.

I hope I have made it clear enough to understand. The second method is probable the easiest method and maybe the best failsafe method for the chlorinator. And the added first tank would give your water system added runtime before the pump would need to work. The pressure switches should be adjustable pressure double pole double throw type to allowed you to wire it either for 120vac or 220vac.

Charles

metalSmith's

GA. Use of UV would also eliminate any pathogens not vulnerable to chlorination.

Hello PWSlack,

hope you are well?

I little 'lateral' thinking does marvels for the succession of more ideas!

GA to you!

bb

Hi PWSlack , can you route me about UV lamp UNIT?

Simplest solution is to run a chlorinated feed to a reservoir tank and sparge the reservoir with a minnow bucket aerator. Voila! No more chlorine.

Your chemical pump is activated by pumping action and is likely wired directly to the pressure switch. You may want to buy a flow meter that can send a signal to a good chemical pump. Invest in a good chemical pump that can receive 4-20 mA signals. This way you could locate the flow meter on the water to be chlorinated and still have chlorine free taps at some locations. You may need a dedicated contact tank to assure proper disinfection. Just make sure that you don't cross the chlorinated pipes with the water not to be chlorinated. It may be dangerous if you are using chlorine for disinfection. There are lots of brands but check out "Pulsatron" chemical pumps and "Hayes" meters. Lots of other high end stuff you can use.

One of the major problems with domestic chlorination is improper testing of untreated water. Because of the large contact times afforded the type of chlorination described you run a very high risk of forming TriHaloMethanes or THM. The level of total organic carbon (TOC) is important to determine the potential for forming these THMs. THM is a precurser to some cancers and is crucial to test for on municipal supplies. I also feel it is more likely to occur on the applied conditions you described and is generally under-estimated as problems for private water users. Testing is so important to know. For example, elevated ammonia (NH3) levels can combine with your free chlorine to form chloramines and possible prevent the THM formation or sometimes create a much higher chlorine demand. Taste and odour of chlorine could then be an issue. If your water did not smell of chlorine, would you use it on the garden if the levels were low? Chlorine is cheap. Testing is generally expensive and requires expert interpretation. If you are interested in a relatively complete package of testing (MWT Package for ground water systems) that would service most domestic waters contact www.mwater.ca . I do not work for this company but do recommend them as experts in ground water testing.

Good Luck.

kevinm A GA from me for an excellent and informative post. Way to many times safety doesn't carry first priority with do it yourselfers. Jerrell

Hello Bob,

hope you are fine?

In answer to your question I would have put another feed pipe and pump with the feed coming directly from the well water, which I assume is not chlorinated?

Or perhaps put another tank on the roof to give 'head' which is fed from the un-chlorinated well. Have the chlorinator going from the first 'clean water' tank, to the chlorinated tank on a different pump and electrical connection?

If you want a totally un-chlorinated cold water supply, have the hot water chlorinated. That way you will not have to worry about remembering to press a button or flick a switch if and when you use the chlorinated supply.

I realize this kind of defeats the reason for chlorinating the cold water in the first place, but, if there was say, a 'background' chlorination of the well with a minimum of chlorine to protect from bugs. But you may want to have totally un-chlorinated water to drink cold, or you may be allergic to it, in which case my first idea should be OK?

Keep in touch........

bb

Install a chlorine sensor in your pressure tank. That way, the system can be reconfigured so that chlorine is only dosed in whenever it drops below minimum required level.

If this is only for small occasional use run a small open top container full of chlorinated water and wait for a few days. Chlorine will dissipate over time depending on its original concentration. Cost of container and patience only.