What's the Best Thermal Lightweight Insulating Concrete or Grout Mix Design?

I think you are looking for a supplier. We just try to answer questions of an engineering nature. We don't normally source or sell things here.

Post this on:Search GlobalSpec

I think you missed the point entirely. OMG

Okay, we'll do the initial research for you on Globalspec - Hi-Temp Mortar

take it from here.

The thermal mortar with greatest availability is common clay.

I've done plenty of research on this, I'm trying to find a consensus among people out there, not smart comments. YOU seem to have plenty of those from what I've seen. Thanks for nothing bware.

Hi Temp Mortar?! - you should check out information that you recommend. You're suggestion was Way Off target. You need to read what I had very concisely written. Then I wouldn't have to splain it to you again. Maybe just another case of High Tech Help That Hurts.

bware

Check out California Lightweight Pumice aggregate. VG

At 50 pcf what I do is still 2500 psi and can withstand 5,000 F.

it can be supplied like regular portland based concrete but uses no portland.

I have done jobs that a 1/12" liner withstands -273 degrees F to over 5,000 degrees F

Dear Tesla - was - right,

Like the initiator of this thread I am also looking for a filler for a new technology wall pannel presently under test ( and pending patent application ).

If you would further describe the mix or the trade name of the materials you use and any other application details you may care to release I will be most obliged. Thank you for the assistance,

Best regards

Labor Omnia Vincit

We use "appropriate binders" to create what is needed.

Portland is a binder--there are many others.

Magnesium phosphate chemistry is much stronger.

When a substance is lightened it loses strength. If it starts out stronger, you can lighten it more and retain more strength. That is how we can provide mixes that are 2-3 times stronger at any given density---- from 5 pounds per cubic foot (PCF) to full density.

We do this on a worldwide basis.

If one wants a mix that is something they can just add a filler to a base mix and pour then a pre-made lightweight aggregate is the way to go. In the case of this enquiry one could take one part at full density (120 pcf) and add three parts of a 26 pcf aggregate. This would create a final mix of 49.5 pcf

A more direct approach would be to just use a pre-foamed mix. In this approach a foam generator is used to add a pre-formed foam to the base mix. With a little math and some practice one can add the right amount to create infinate densities . This foam can go into a readymix truck or a mixer as it is strong enough to withstand the mixing forces. Either way is a viable approach.

The magnesium phosphate cement is fast setting and would not need long curing times like portland mixes do--especially lightweight portland mixes.

tesla-was-right@hotmail.com

Hey there "Tesla-Was-Right" what is the name of your company and do you do business in the Portland, Maine area?

Say PORHTAL, Am originally from Maine. Still have property on South Harpswell. Now live near Portland, Oregon. Go figure. What's the price of lobsta these days? Can you buy off the boat?

tcinc002@aol.com

My goal is provide the best thermal mix design, one that any contractor should be able to provide on any job site. I'm trying to stay away from any exotic materials like the use of aluminum powder, which doubles the air volume of concrete (helping to mitigate thermal conductance), but more difficult for a contractor to obtain and mix. And, verifying the mix design eventually on a project is difficult. There are loads of exotic products out there, costly and time consuming which most contractors aren't going to want to deal with.

So as far as a potential mix design, I was thinking perhaps using perlite in a 1:4 or 1:5 ratio, Type I portland cement and a w/c ratio in a range of 0.95 to 1.15. The Portland Cement Association says such a mix design will yield a 28-day compressive strength around 400 psi testing standard concrete cylinders. This lighter weight density, around 30-40 pcf, will provide one of the lowest readings of thermal conductance. I don't know if you've found perlite, or maybe even the use of polystyrene fill to be better, more or less cost effective or not. This is what I am trying to find out based upon some others pragmatic experience. I appreciate any observations you can provide.

If perlite isn't available locally, vermiculite can be substituted.

There is a balance required between a mix sloppy enough to properly fill the cavity and one stiff enough to prevent perlite segregating.

Perlite would probably be cheaper than polystyrene beads, but the damn stuff is awful if it gets in your clothing etc - it is a real irritant.

Vermiculite is less irritating and may be better. It's thermal properties are not as good as perlite, but it is still a good insulator and will operate at higher temps than the cement, which breaks up around 350C (I think).

Polystyrene will break down on heating depositing carbon in the void it leaves thereby increasing the thermal conductivity, but not too badly. The amorphous carbon left behind will stand heat far better than the cement binder, which will tend to powder as the polystyrene decomposes.

The mix you have seems about right.

You can really do that? Please tell me how to learn! I have best application for it.

yes, I can really do that

I sell the knowledge and equipment.

Currently I am out of the country do just that and will be back to he States in mid April.

tesla-was-right@hotmail.com

Try 3M's website. They make fireproof grout/cement.