1999 Full-Size Dodge Van with Starting Problem

I'm not sure exactly what the problem your having is, but I'm guessing you mean you occasionally have an extended crank time before the engine starts. If this is the case, see if a puff of smoke comes out the tailpipe when the truck fires up. This would likely point to a leaky injector. If that is not the case, pull a plug wire off and see if you are getting spark during the entire time you are cranking. This would rule out the dist. cap. If that's good, maybe a fuel pressure test is in order. Without more info, I'm outta guesses.

Flash the computer and code the engine that will tell you exactly whats wrong. To get the computer into a analyzing mode turn switch off to on 3 times the computer will then Analise the complete system,just count the flashes ,after a little bit the flashes will reach 55 that is the code of a completed system check. Dodge product is the only manufacture to use this system of self check. You can look up codes on the internet.

No, do not install any parts on this vehicle until you find out what the problem is. An engine needs spark at the correct time & at the correct quantity, it needs fuel at the correct quantity & the engine needs to have the correct compression & be able to pump air if the engine is going to start and run. Find out which one of these is missing when it does not start, then fix the problem right the first time. A problem like this is easily found if the proper training, tooling & information are available to do the proper testing.

Frank & bwrench have good advice...

had a 93 kcar with similar problems twice.

one time it was the contacts behind the key, the key would get hot then the accessories would be intermitent....

another time it was the crank position sensor.

My first thought was it might be the ignition key switch. I use a big gob of keys, and heard that is bad for it. I have never had it get hot, or problems with other than the dependable first start. It just doesn't crank, or starts to crank, and then starts right up on the next try. Thanks.

Try asking these guys... looks free?

the check engine light will flash the trouble codes.

if you cycle the key twice without starting [I think]

There could be a layer of dirt on the wires and distributor that gets more conductive in moister air. I have seen this happen many times. The test for this is to make sure you are on dry ground and dry the wires and distributor with a hair dryer until they are warm and dry, and see if it starts more easily= zero cost. If this seems to be the problem, then buy a can of ignition spray and sealer. before you use it, you must remove each spark plug wire from the distributor and from the plug. Make sure you place a physical tag on each wire and place a mark on the distributor so you know where they go back after cleaning.

Then take some paint thinner (not acetone or lacquer thinner) and in an outside location clean each wire from end to end and clean inside the rubber insulator and pull the insulator along the wire so you can clean the part hidden in the nipple, then return the wire into the insulator so it properly reached the plug and the distributor connector. Do the same with the wire to the coil. Dry off the thinner and return all the wire to their proper place. Might help to take a couple of digital pix, in case you try to get away with no markers. Believe me, mark them, it can save you time looking up the numbers of the plugs and the position on the distributor. A mechanic who does this 20 times/week soon knows the connections. Most people do not.

Once the car is rewired, and tested to see if the wires are correct and it starts, then spray the coil top connector, each plug connector and each distributor connector so the wire entry point is sealed with the plastic spray and the seal point at the bottom of the rubber seal is also sealed.

This will work for a year or more and can be repeated if needed. Timing is hard wired in your computer and unless you have timing problems, you will not need to mess with it. Modern cars also need no points adjusted.

I think this simple procedure make millions of $$ for garage operators, esp in the winter, as a film and road dust, oil and water creeps into the rubber insulator at any one of the points I said to clean and offers an alternate path to ground for the spark, which often takes it = no start or erratic run.

Thanks. Sounds like a good possibility. We get a lot of rain. It has never failed to start though. It doesn't usually crank at all , then starts right up.

Did you say your 99 Full Size Dodge Van wont "crank", or "wont start"? Big differance.

How long does the vehicle set between starts? A common problem is a leaking check valve in the fuel pump. A leaking check valve allows fuel pressure in the fuel rail to drop when the vehicle sets. When you try to start the vehicle the fuel pump has to prime the system which results in extended crank times. Have a pressure check done on the fuel system. Another option is to check to make sure your are getting a good spark. Remove a spark plug wire, insert a screw driver in the wire and touch the metal to a good ground while someone cranks the engine. MAKE SURE YOU DON"T TOUCH THE METAL! A good strong blue or white spark would indicate that your are getting fire. Good luck

1- Is your "CHECK ENGINE LIGHT" on?

2- Don't change anything yet. Look on the internet of the codes that will pop up in your odometer display, and how you access them.

3- Take it somewhere that can read the OBDII / OBDIII codes.

Chances are, its some goofy sensor.

Yes. The check engine light is on . It was checked by my "shade tree mechanic". He couldn't interpret it, or shut it off. I hate to go to my dealer, because they are crooks. Are these codes only interpretable by Dodge dealers, or more expensive readers? Maybe one of the parts stores could do it for me. Thanks for the suggestion.

Codes can be read and interpreted by any person with the proper scan tool and service information. One thing that you need to be aware about codes, a code will only point a person in a direction, the code will not tell you want part to replace. Any independent repair shop can have full access to all manufacturer diagnostic equipment, service information and module programming, exactly the same thing that any dealer shop has. The question is, will the shop step up to the place and purchase the needed tooling, training & equipment?

as you said that sometimes ,your van starts normaly,and sometimes it takes several turns.that shows that your engine is perfect when it starts normaly,

by my point of view , so you have to check your ignition coil and plugs cable (may be the insulation is damaged and droping the voltage due to short circuit ,or there is leakage in the ht cable.

please mark on the ht cables before removing that due to firing order.

if this van is a diesel powerd then the satuation is diffrent you just have to check the

valve seats ,or the otomizer pressure.

best regards

We had a Dodge Dealership some years ago and found the same problem often resulted from the wire from the ignition switch had overheated and corroded. It was usually where there was a male female connection.

If I am understanding correctly when you turn the key the dash lights come on but the starter will not turn sometimes and then will turn over normally. If this is correct then the problem is more than likely the neutral safety switch which is mounted in the transmission pan. The first thing that you need to check is that the transmission linkage is adjusted correctly. A quick test to see if this is the problem the next time that it doesn't turn over leave the key in the on position and shift the gear shift into R then back to P or just put it in N and try it again. If this corrects the problem then check the bushings on the shift linkage and make sure that the linkages adjusted properly. The bushings are notorious for wearing and will allow the shifter to show park but doesn't actually put the transmission in park so therefore the neutral safety switch is never set and therefore the starter will not receive power. Hope this helps it should if I am make the proper assumption as to the symptom.

Since the problem seems to be focused on the key-turning, why no consider the key. It's not stretch to assume that not all key-inserts-and-turnings are exactly the same. After ten years of such key-turnings the tolerances in the multi-circuit key switch are certainly to have increased considerably...to the point where variances in key-handling are more an more apt to result in malfunction. If you are one inclined to carry many other keys and weighty baubles attached to your ignition key...that is a well known factor in premature starter switch wear-out.

It is so cool to see how we are all responding to the '99 Dodge with a (cranking) starting? problem. We each have a deep understanding of automotive trouble shooting and that wonderous "bent" that separates "us" from "them".....(the unenlightened) Watching "us" ponder though, seems like the old story about the 5 blind men who tried to articulate what they knew about a visit to the elephant for the very 1st time. We all know the story, how the one guy had a hold of the tail, the other guy the trunk, the other guy the leg, the other guy had the ear.....each described articulately and with deep understanding....the part he was grasping!!! One guy though, may have actually seen an elephant before, and that guy is bwrench!! I am putting my money on this guy. Sincerely, Marty Mechanic

Thanks to everyone for your ideas! I don't know when I am going to get this fixed, but I will post when I do.