Timing Problems?

Greetings - what kind of vehicle & the year?

It is a 1997 chevy caverliar.Sorry about not putting that in there that might help huh lol.

GA.

The timing is computer controlled, but you can adjust the base setting. Generally I suggest you start from a clean page and go back to the basics and run a compression test first thing! If you do not know the history of the car I have found that assume nothing and check the basics is the best way to proceed. I have known many mechanics who have chased their tales because they assumed things about an engine and the problems it was having! Something has changed to cause your issues, so since you don't know what it is assume nothing and go back to the basics first and you may be surprised what you find! If your engine has good squeeze then we need to go to the next things and they would be fuel delivery and ignition performance. Fuel pressure check and then spark testing should follow.

Air, fuel, compression, and ignition. The four basic needs for an internal combustion engine.

Using too much fuel? Either not enough air, too much fuel, not enough spark, or inaccurate timing.

The order that I would troubleshoot these factors would be from the easiest to the most difficult.

Air: check all your air passages and air cleaner.

Ignition: test for adequate intensity as well as proper timing.

Fuel: Test injectors and control module.

Vacuum:This is always a problem area. May not be associated with sucking gas but, I would check everything connected to your intake manifold anyway.

Visit your auto parts store and purchase a service manual. There is always a troubleshooting guide contained therein.

Feel free to ask any questions as you proceed and good luck to you.

Remove the plug wires from 1 cylinder at the time, and note which one or two do not seem to affect engine speed.These are the dead cylinder(s).Some cavaliers had only 2 coils for 4 plugs, firing the compression and exhaust at the same time.If you find 2 plugs not firing, it is probably the coil.If your car does not have the 2 plugs for one coil, you can still determine the bad cylinder and go from there:Bad wire,coil, etc.A vacuum leak anywhere will also cause excessive fuel consumption,because the O2 sensor sees the excess air as a need for more fuel, and sends a high O2 signal to the computer, which attempts to correct by adding more fuel.

What engine codes are you getting?Auto Zone or Advance will extract your code for free, and tell the cause(s).

Pull the computer codes. One possible issue with the 2.2 liter engine is fuel injector problems. Since you have changed plugs and wires you should also make sure you are getting a spark at each cylinder. You can pull one plug wire at a time with the engine running and listen for engine changes. If the engine slows or begins to run worse then you can assume that the plug is firing. Once you have the error codes from the computer you will at least have an idea of which area to focus your repair efforts on. Good luck

Ok here is the scoop, i checked to see if i have spark at the end of my wires and i do in all 4, i also have good compression, the parts store said i have a missfire according to the check engine tester, my vechicle has the 2.4 in it. Me and a buddy is going to check out to see if my timing belt slipped. If that is not it, i would appreciate more replys.

Thanks

Well your 2 for 3.. (Compression, spark, fuel) which leaves fuel delivery. (assuming your timing has not jumped a tooth)

Are your injectors firing?

If so are they clogged?

If not why?

The injector control module not working?

Leaky intake manifold?

leaky injector seal? (somewhat common)

Vacuum leak? (very common)

For vacuum leaks, buy a spray can of something like starter fluid/brakeclean/wd40... or many other commonly found shop spray fluids (making sure they are compatible with the materials your spraying) and spray all vacuum connections and tubes while listening to the engine idle. Any change in engine idle signifies a vacuum leak, and further examination should be done. Just found 3 vacuum leaks in my spare truck with this method, and took care of a fairly poor running engine with a new piece of hose and a check valve.

Rambling.. sorry. good luck keep us updated

If your compression is equal, and close to specs, don't bother to look for the timing belt to have moved. Compression is a result of the valve timing being correct.

You can buy very inexpensive test lights to watch the fuel injectors for a firing signal. Another in expensive test tool is a small plastic light that has a thin metal probe on it. When held against a fuel injector, it will light up each time that injector fires. This litttle gem will test weather there is an electrical signal and weather the injector actually fires. It is made by the Waekon company, or the Hickock company. It is marketed as the EFI-Probe. Try going to www.waekon.com , www.hickok-inc.com , or www.quick-n-ezparts.com . You could still have a bad crank sensor, or other ignition related item. Good luck.

Doesn't the 2.4L have a coil tower (housing that attaches with 4 bolts) instead of spark plug wires? The reason I ask is that I have replaced several of them before.

I am curious how you tested spark. I just don't want you to go through all the work of checking timing if the problem can be simple.

I have 2 coil packs on back side of the engine. I tested spark by pulling the spark plug out and wire, while holding on to it with a pair of pliers i had my wife crank the car over, while touching the plug to the engine.

That test that you performed is a subjective test. The length of the arc has to be long enough. The color of the arc must be bluish-white. And of course you can not tell if the arc is at the correct time. What has changed since the car ran correctly?