Husqvarna 445 Chainsaw - Drum Brake Problem

TAKE IT BACK TO THE DEALER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Have him show you how to install the chain/bar.

I assume you did buy it, if it's new. These things are fine machines and will perform very well. Of course, you should read the manual first.

This saw is suffering from operator inexperience.

I purchased it from pawn shop who sells acquired chainsaws from Lowe's, as they no longer handle Husqvarna. It is brand new but without box and owner's manual. I downloaded from Husqvarna site their version of manual which is marginal at best. I have no problem installing bar and chain and reassembly but cannot seem to get brake to function as it should. My old McCulloch functions perfectly and I have done all my own repairs for the past 22 years with success.

OK, you know what you are doing. Maybe, go to Lowes and ask one of the attendants if he remembers how to adjust it. As you know. it's not rocket science.

If you are really cheeky, take the saw back with you and explain your problem. If the subject of origin comes up??????????????????????????????

Good Luck.

BTW my brother has two Husky chain saws and says there are none better.

Well, the Pawn Shop is definitely not a consideration as he is not at all versed on saws other than selling them. I have searched the internet and this seems to be a common problem for many but have not read any good solutions. Before a trip to Lowe's I will see if there are any instructional videos on youtube....just might be!.

I should have stated that the chain does NOT turn with brake on/off at idle.

IMHO you should take the chainsaw to a local Husqvarna dealership and have a qualified technician work on it. The brake drum is a very important safety feature in chainsaws that helps prevent serious injury.

Taking the chainsaw back to the Pawn Shop or Lowes will not accomplish a darn thing because neither place is qualified to work on power equipment, especially one frought with potential dangers as this one. One cannot ignore the safety features! Even if you think you've fixed the problemm there is still the potential that it could fail during a critical cut and the saw could kick back on you.

Since the chainsaw has bother the Model and Serial Numbers on the manufacturer's data plate, the Husqvarna dealer can ascertian whether or no the chainsaw is still under warranty. If it is, may I suggest that you demand a replacement chainsaw for the faulty one? Of course, they may refuse your demand since you've monkeyed around with the mechanics already and probably voided the warranty. If they do happened to fix the problem, get a written guarantee or warranty extension from the dealer that covers a specified period of time. Otherwise you're just wasting your money and time.

When all else fails, take it back to the Pawn Shop where you bought it and ask for your money back!

I hope this helps you out!!!! Have a great day!

The chain brake is very touchy on these and you have to play with them to reset them. I always fight with mine after adjusting the chain. Must reset the brake everytime. It takes practice and frequency of use to get the technique down. When I cut 12 cords of wood last year I had the technique perfect. I take my palm and press hard on the the cover as I reset the brake. But it has been a few months since I have used mine and it is like starting over again getting the brake to pop. I also bought mine off Ebay through a pawn shop and downloaded the manual too.

Update: Saw is now working as it should and for those not reading my previous post, saw is brand new but without box and owner's manual.

Drum clutch brake did smoke but realize now that was due to pouring too much synthetic engine oil, in an attempt to lube needle bearings. After numerous attempts I realized that there must be a smooth transition between brake and run positions with the "front hand guard". Also, the front hand guard gear knuckle that contacts the clutch cover must not distort the clutch cover. If it does, start over...I did finally hear a click while in brake position. I know what to look for the next time I open clutch cover although I doubt I'll get it right at first try.

Thanks to all who replied and safety is a primary issue, but...many things done in life have risks.

You can download an Owners Manual and and IPL from the Husqvarna website.

Just a thought,..but have you taken the drum off of the drive shaft and checked the springs of the clutch fingers? I am wondering if there may be some debris crammed into the area where they should be moving during centrifugal actions under throttle conditions. I would also check the brake handle and any cams or connecting rods etc. There may be a hidden crack on part of the mechanisms that is hidden by either dirt or paint. Also, it shouldn't happen, but one must wonder if the saw was "used for the weekend" by someone else, and they slammed on the brake during a cutting action. It should stop the chain very efficiently, but if it's been damaged it might not show. I have not had to "reset" the brakes on any of our chainsaws when I have changed either bars or chains. I have had to reset the chain tensioner, but never had to monkey with the brake. I am thinking strongly now, that there may also be a piece missing or heat damaged associated with the mechanisms that causes this slippage to be present, or, perhaps have a component assembled backwards?

Our snowmobile club owns three Husky's. When ever the operators change chains, the saws have to go back to the dealer for repair. This is not true for the Stihl's.

Please, get this fixed by a dealer! The saws are dangerous without the antikick back brakes working properly!

Update from stubborn Irish,

Saw finally is operating correctly but as I was not sure what I did to get it to this point, I broke it down this morning. First of all, spring on clutch cover measures same as diameter of clutch drum when removed....a snap is heard when cover is removed as spring had been on outside of drum clutch, which is correct. I tried moving ratchet on cover that meshes with front hand guard in an attempt to enlarge spring so as to fit over drum in final assembly by hand.....fagettaboutit. Lay saw on side, chain doesn't have to be tight but pivot chain adjuster has to be in hole on bar. Keep pressure on cover with one hand while working loud clicking ratchet back and forth from brake to run. At first spring on cover is over drum on chain side of saw, front, but not at rear.....loud ratcheting action moving front hand guard works the cover spring closer and closer to where the cover spring jumps over clutch drum. Pressure must be kept on cover so you don't lose it all-as a matter of fact I had to carry saw to truck to get nut in order to screw onto saw bolt fearing it would come apart. I will always wonder how the real owner's manual describes this operation.

Btw, Saw came with Champion RCJ7Y and started after about five pulls....replaced with NGK BPMR7A 4626 .. two pulls

As you have discovered this is the method described in the manual. It is not fun but after you develop the technique it gets easy. For myself I prefer the Husky for actually cutting wood and starting everytime the first time. Sorry to disappoint Stihl fans but fighting to start a Stihl is not worth it. I start my chain saw more than I replace the chain.