1991 Camaro Won't Run Right

It sounds like you are guessing. Have you done a compression check? Have you checked the ignition timing? Did you look at the plugs that you removed? These things will give you a clue as to how the engine is working internally.

These cars seem to me to eat up a lot more ignition coils than Ford or Chrysler. Take a good look at the sides of your coil and look for sins of arcing. A rainbow appearance may signal trouble. At that age, spark plug wires should have been replaced by now. If you don't see any signs on the coil, try using a coil wire from another car. If the coil wire changes anything, replace all of the plug wires.

If at this point you still have not found anything, I would take the distributer cap and rotor off, and look carefully for any insulation separating from the pole pick up. If nothing looks bad, replace the ignition control unit in the distributer. There is just no easy way to test all of the functions of that piece. They are not that expensive any way. If you don't want to change the ICU, you can buy rebuilt distributors cheaply. If you have never changed a distributer before, let us know before you pull it. Good luck.

thanks bob,

the shop i had taken it too replaced the ignition coil and it did nothing.

as far as the plugs i did look at them and i have a book for camaros and it actually has pictures of plugs and gives a biscription of whats going on. so the plugs showed no bad signs soim gonna look at the distributer like you said.

thanks, matt

Don't forget to check the catalytic converter. I had a 91 olds that acted like that. Mine went clogged when I hit a significant bump, then stalled, it would idle but die when put in gear, no power, limped home, etc.

If a car has a restrictive cat, the manifold vacuum will get progressively less as the engine speed increases. It can be tested by creating an exhaust leak in front of the cat. Removing the O2 sensor, loosening the exhaust manifold from the head, or removing the EGR valve and blocking the vacuum hole created.

thanks but i found it it was the distributor

thanks but i found the problem it was a bad distributor

matt

bit of a long shot, but add throttle plate shaft movment to the list of things to check. If there is too much movement on the shaft, it can cause these problems as well.

thanks for your info but it was the distributor

Can you tell us what was wrong with it?

I had similar problem with an 1988 Ford Mustang 5.0L. Idle fuel pressure was OK, but anything off idle stalled because fuel volume was inadequate. Bad fuel pump after only 24 months and out of warranty because mileage limit was exceeded. Replaced electric fuel pump in tank myself (what a pain!) and all was fine. Test your fuel pressure off idle. If it drops a lot, you may need fuel pump replacement. Good luck!

This is not an all-inclusive list, and it is possible under some circumstances to add or delete items. It is a basic performance testing menu.

Basic testing sequence:

Pre (cold) start attempt:

Check for proper battery voltage

Install fuel pressure gauge

Check for pressure and volume (check spec table in repair manual)

Install engine analyzer

Check for spark at a minimum of two cylinders

Check for injector pulse at a minimum of two cylinders

Pull codes

Check ECM/ECU data stream

Attempt to start: if starts and runs:

During running, recheck:

Fuel pressure/volume

Primary/secondary ignition scope traces

ECM data stream

If testing for a clogged cat won't work (although I beleive that can really be the issue), I will try inspecting the timing belt/chain for incorrect (too much) play. Some V8's rattle when the timing can't be set correctly due this.

Another engine I had (Ford) was only fixed until I corrected the gas/air mix (either carburated or injected engines). A bad Lambda Sond (or O2 sensor) will create this problem.

I hope this will help.

Good luck.

I had a 92 RS and it to started stalling after it warmed up. After shot gunning parts, I broke out the electrical schematics for the ECM and found I had a bad temp sensor. Replaced the sensor and the problem went away. Some times simple things have a tendency to bit you in the A**. I don't remember what the resistance values were, but as the sensor warmed up the values were out of specs, causing the ECM to improperly schedule the fuel, thus causing the engine to stall. Something you might want to check along with other "input" component's value weither it's voltage or resistance.

Good luck, dj

I had a '92 with a problem temp.sensor, then said to need a new "chip" - allegedly due to some voltage spike during work that disconnected the battery...

any chance you need new sensors and/or a performance 'chip' replacement?

gas filter

This is when 1996+ OBDII comes in handy. Since it sounds like it runs good when cold, this might narrow down the problem. (I'm assuming this is how your car works) The car should be running off a generic tune when cold, once warm the ECU will trigger the normal engine management tuning to kick in. When cold things like the MAF sensor and 02 sensor aren't being used to meter the A/F ratio. During warm up the A/F ratio would likely be on the rich side as dictated by the cold engine tune.

My 1st guess is your MAF sensor is bad or dirty. Do you run an aftermarket air filter? Oiled filters like K&N can ruin MAF sensors. You probably won't get a CEL with a bad MAF either. Otherwise it could be a vacuum leak, bad O2 sensor, maybe faulty injector...

Replace your gas filter!

I had the same problem with my Chevy S10.....it would die out the second I gave it gas but it idled fine. I took it up the street and wasted some money with a mechanic guessing trying to fix the problem on my dime. My neighbor told me about the catalytic convertor breaking down and plugging the muffler. Despite the fact I'd gave the mechanic this informatation he didn't act on it until screwing around trying to fix the problem. When both were replaced the problem went away. I would check that out if nothing so far has helped.....Thanks....Steve

Use a can of carburetor cleaner spray around the intake manifold and any other place vacuum can leak. If the spray hits a leak the engine will smooth out. If this doesn't work pull the vacuum hose to the brake booster and plug with a bolt if the engine runs better buy a rebuilt vacuum booster.

Have you looked at your gas filter? Change it its cheep and the problems you are having could suggest a dirty fuel filter, idles fine and put on the gas and dies or go a few blocks and it dies. Look at where the supply line starts-fuel filter.

Are you trying to sell gas filters?

Sorry, I own the market on gas filters, Ha, Ha. No It just sounded from his description that would be one thing I checked, along with the other things one would check for.