Coupling a Diesel Engine and Generator

1. Be sure both machines operate with same rotation, either left or right-handed. The coupling might needs be be end-to-end or side-by-side.

2. A gear or sprocket/chain connection must incorporate speed reduction to match optimum engine speed (2800 rpm) to correct generator speed (1800 rpm). If neither engine or generator manufacturers supply off-the-shelf assemblies, a custom machine shop can fabricate one to your specifications. Get recommendations from engine and generator manufacturer.

3. Design a frame/foundation to secure all components in secure alignment.

4. Design a control panel to include all controls necessary to operate both units.

5. Provide for accessory items, such as fuel, coolant, lubricant, ventilation, Electrical connections, batteries, etc.

Great, thanks!

Definitely check that the output rotation of the motor matches the input direction of the Generator.

When you mount them, mount them solidly onto a frame and then use isolating mounts on that frame to a floor mounting frame. Refer the Yanmar installation instructions.

Ensure that the crankshaft and the input shaft are in "perfect" alignment, both longitudinally and laterally.

Use a drive shaft coupler that provides for relief of shock loads and minor misalignment.

If you have to mount them side by side, use v-belts rather than chains as v-belts are more forgiving, have lower comparative maintenance and are way quieter in operation.

If using pulleys optimise the ratio between the driving pulley (motor) and the driven pulley (Generator). That is find out the engines operating sweet spot of good fuel economy/Horse Power/Torque in RPM and match that RPM against what is the required RPM of the Generator to produce the rated output.

It looks like, in your application, you will be direct coupling the motor to the generator. Refer to Yanmar as to the best settings for the injector pump. Running the motor at 1800rpm should be no biggy but you will have to ensure that the Generator is reasonably well loaded in order that the motor doesn't get glazed up in the bores

Diesels love to work hard.

Minor things such as proper exhaust system which dumps the exhaust well away from the inlet is important

Making sure the inlet has a proper filtration set up is also vital.

Last but not least make sure that you can get to everything, in a maintenance sense, before you commit to welding it all together. Its a real bummer not to be able to change the oil filter because theres 10mm of steel plate in the way.

Don't skimp on the fittings! An extra dollar spent now will save you hundreds later.

Just my threepence worth..

Worth every penny. Thanks!

Any internal combustion engine is most efficient at its peak torque.

One option you might consider is slowing the diesel engine down to 1800 rpm and do a direct couple to the generator. You will loose some HP from the engine when you slow it down but it will last longer give a bit better fuel economy and you will not have any parasitic power loss from using a reduction drive system.

All of the above answers are very good. I used to do this type of adapting when I worked in a machine shop. If you have to belt drive the generator, keep in mind the diesel probably has a plain bearing on the output, no good for side loads. You will have to mount a double outboard bearing setup to take that load. If you direct drive the generator, it would be great if you have a flexible coupling between them. That will save your bearings from any mis-alignment loads.

A marine clutch can serve as a good pto and gear reduction, they have good bearings. It could even run in reverse if necessary, but check the slinger seals if you do. Some trannys don't like to run in reverse all day.

If you ever need anymore questions answered about generators, check out GoPower.com. I was able to find solutions to many of my power issues there. Hope this helps.