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Anonymous Poster

Need Advice on Rebuilding the Niles Spindle

10/27/2009 6:59 AM

Warren and I finally got the Niles table spindle into the Poreba lathe. After he dialed it in, he measured up the journals. The bottom, smaller journal that rides in bronze is still in good shape. The upper journal that rides in the cast iron, deformable bearing is worn quite a bit. The upper and lower ends mike up at 12.000 inches. The middle section is worn by 0.050 and is eccentric. The cast iron journal has 6 slots . Three are located at one end and run 2/3 of the way towards the other end. They are 120 degrees apart. The other three run from the other end about 2/3 of the length and are 120 degrees apart and are located between the slots running from the other direction. Heavy felt strips are fitted into the slots to prevent the lubricating oil from being slung out. At one end is a cast integral flange. The inside bore is cylindrical and the outside bore is tapered. The base of the Niles has a large spindle hole that is conical with the large end facing down. The adjustable, cast iron, bearing is slid up into the hole and held up with three large threaded rods. There are six nuts used to both adjust the bearing and to hold the adjusted height/collapsed inner diameter of the collapsible bearing in place. I think the idea is that as the journal and/or bearing wears, you can loosen the nuts between the flange and the base and tighten the nuts up on the top of the flange. This pulls the opposing conical surfaces towards each other and collapses the inside of the bearing to renew the bearing clearance. Unfortunately, it is also worn 0.050 over. The lubrication system is choked everywhere with heavy congealed oil that almost looks like grease. It is very hard. Like the table annular bearing surface, it appears that the lubrication system slowly failed and wear increased dramatically.

Warren is very concerned with turning the collapsible bearing. He feels that if he bolts it to the Bullard VTL table and centers it to the three flange hole and uses an extremely sharp tool in a long boring bar and takes very small cuts that he can make it true again. He can easily true the table, spindle, journal.

The problem then will be making up almost an 1/8 of an inch of surface. He can make a sleeve for the spindle. He would heat it up and press it on and turn it true. My question to you all is should we stick with a cast iron sleeve or should we try to improve the design by adding a bronze sleeve. I have a small bronze foundry that will cast an 11 ½ id by 12 ¼ OD by 19 inch long sleeve for $600.00. Did Niles not use a bronze bearing because they were concerned that the six adjusting slots would cut the bronze surface too fast? Maybe with this type of odd bearing, I would be better off with a steel or stainless steel sleeve.

Additionally, to our amazement, the table thrust bearing is a hardened steel washer! We would like to install a 6" diameter Timken roller bearing thrust washer instead of the plain steel washer. We can adjust the height by taking the difference in height between the thickness of the existing washer minus the height of the Timken thrust bearing ant machining that height off the end of the spindle. Can you imagine how easily that table will spin on a roller thrust bearing? So if we were to do that what thrust capacity should we design for? That would be the weight of the table plus the heaviest piece we would machine. Would we double the load for a 2.0 safety factor?

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#1

Re: Need advice on rebuilding the Niles Spindle

10/27/2009 7:31 AM

Not my field at all, but I would try to stick to the original arrangement.
The problem with changing it, is the problems will only apparent after you have run it for a while and by then it may be too late to reinstate the original. Whereas if you stick to the original you can see how it performs and maybe modify later when you have a better feel for the beastie.
Changing to the Timken roller should satisfy you urges to improve it.
Del
(pics pics, we want pics)

Terms and conditions apply, this advice may be completely worthless

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#2

Re: Need Advice on Rebuilding the Niles Spindle

10/28/2009 4:14 AM

Niles had the option to use a tapered roller bearing but there is a reason not to and Niles chose to avoid those pressure issues, you should follow their lead too.

Use submerged arc welding or thermal metal spray to build up the bearing surface then re-machine to spec's, this will enable a 50 - 60 year turn around before R&R again.

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#3

Re: Need Advice on Rebuilding the Niles Spindle

10/28/2009 5:21 AM

Dear Sir,

This is a very typical standard arrangement for old version of lathes.

Worn out taper cone sleeve is for taking radial load.

I suggest a suitable method of relining the worn out sleeve bore.

Rebore the worn out bore by 1.5 mm radially.The bore surface should be rough - above 3.2 microns surface finish. Use anti friction lining material in the putty - paste form. This is a special material available in Europe- and may be available in USA.

Name of the material is SKC-3 or another make- Moglice Diamant ( both are German manufacture and you can get the details on internet)

Prepare the paste with mixing hardener as per the manufacturer's procedure. Degrease the sleeve reworked bore thoroughly.

Apply releasing compound on the spindle outer diameter. Use this spindle as a mandrel. After applying the anti friction paste on the sleeve bore ( rebored as explained above)insert the spindle in the sleeve. Make necessary fixture to insert the spindle concentric to sleeve bore so that the lining thickness will be uniform on the sleeve bore, Allow excess material to flow out from ends.

Keep this in position for 24 hrs. for curing.After that remove the spindle and you get a perfectly molded bore on the sleeve.Knock off excess material on the ends and make lubrication grooves in the sleeve bore. Also open the lub. drill holes properly.

This will give you excellent radial bearing and very accurate radial guidance.

The suggested material is made for machine tool application only and you will get excellent life and low friction bearing.Please note that as this is a cold process, there is no thermal deformation of the components ( which can occur in other relining processes).

In case you need more guidance, you may send the actual component sketches to me , so that I will give you all reworking drgs. and elaborate procedure.

Prakash Marathe, ( e-mail ID prakash. marathe@gmail.com)

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#4

Re: Need Advice on Rebuilding the Niles Spindle

10/28/2009 10:09 AM

Bill,

I hang out here also,

I did not suggest sumerged arc welding any kind or weld build up because of your spindle being made of cast iron. It could be very difficult to do. Now the molglass metioned may hold up. I wouldn't use it. Why not remake the sleeve looking piece you show on your VBM in the pics on the PM site? Doesn't the spindle ride on that? Wouldnt that be easier than trying to make a thin sleeve?

Ken

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#5
In reply to #4

Re: Need Advice on Rebuilding the Niles Spindle

10/28/2009 1:27 PM

Thermal spray has been used very successfully possibly due the plethora of coatings available to build up bearing surfaces. May it be we are not each on the same page

Common materials Sprayed:

  • Zinc and aluminium for anti-corrosion cathodic coatings on steel
  • Nickel/aluminium composite wire for bond coats and self-bonding coatings
  • Molybdenum for bond coats
  • Molybdenum for hard bearing applications, excellent resistance to adhesive wear, used on piston rings, syncromesh cones and journals.
  • High Chromium steel for many applications requiring hard and wear resistant coating
  • Bronzes, babbitt for bearing applications
  • Stainless steels, nickel and monel for anti-corrosion and wear
  • Aluminium, nickel/aluminium for heat and oxidation resistance

The Combustion Wire Thermal Spray Process formerly known as Metallizing, Flame Spray and Metal Spray Processes was first invented in 1910 by Schoop in Switzerland

Cast iron no worries mate

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#6

Re: Need Advice on Rebuilding the Niles Spindle

10/28/2009 2:12 PM

Hi,

"Heavy felt strips are fitted into the slots to prevent the lubricating oil from being slung out"

More likely to act as an oil reservoir and let the sliding contact draw some oil onto the shaft and into the bearing gap.

"Warren is very concerned with turning the collapsible bearing"

Use a bolted internal or external ring to stiffen it and - if necessary - use a small grinding spindle in exchange of the cutting tool.

"stick with a cast iron sleeve or should we try to improve the design by adding a bronze sleeve"

Cast iron sleeve is very good if the shaft is steel and hardened, else I would turn to bronze or the above suggested flame-sprayed surfacing. (This will need grinding). Any bronze sleeve will expand relative to the steel/iron shaft if temperature goes up. This may be good as the radial temperature profile tends to shrink the clearance.

Any ground surface should be slightly polished to remove the uppermost parts of the mountain tops. The valleys will store the oil, the flat tops will facilitate gliding.

"Roller Thrust bearing"

Needs a lot more dynamic load capability than your estimate.

You will drop the heavy pieces with some small velocity onto the table. This kinetic energy plus the energy from static load and elastic deflection of the bearing will be converted into elastic energy in the bearing's compliance. If no mass in the table and zero velocity at touchdown there will be 3times the static load for some time after touchdown. So I would choose without calculation (or better calculate?) the dynamic load capability to be 12 times the maximum weight of a workpiece plus table.

Diamant Moglice: as suggested in another post is well established in repairing slowly running machines like yours. They have a subsidiary in the US and will be glad to help you.

May be a good idea to install a continuously filtered oil supply.

If you want to have a super-machine then convert all bearings to hydrostatic action.

This is not too complicated as you have big diameters and thus high load capacity at moderate pressure. Any bearing (cylindrical or flat) shall then have minimum 6 or 7 or more restrictors (orifices) where the oil enters and radial grooves in-between to let the oil out. Clearance should be near 100ppm or 0.01% of diameter. Pressure drop shall be 45% of supply pressure at "no workpiece load"-condition.

If you don't like the orifices as these need a lot of manual work to insert there is another possibility of hydrostatic bearing the "fluted bearing" invented by Harold Arneson in the 1970ies. The company "Professional Instruments" he founded (earlier) is still thriving, see www.airbearings.com.

These may need a smaller gap (if oil-flow is too high) and will provide higher stiffness at the same load capacity.

The oil-film in both designs will provide nearly indefinite load capacity at impact loading so these machines with hydrostatic bearings will withstand more severe crash situations than machines equipped with sliding bearings.

Surfaces that are turned on hydrostatic machines can have near optical quality, so you will see in your machine the action of the gears that transmit some force-variations.

Best success wished

RHABE

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