Vertical Washing Machine Drain

I think a strainer would get plugged quickly. Ideally the washing machine discharge should go above the main DW line, and loop back down into the top. Maybe it already does, but if the down loop rests near the inside bottom of the DW line, then back-siphoning is likely. Perhaps you can prop the end so that the "downspout" just barely enters the top of the DW line. If my guess is wrong about this, please follow up, and maybe another idea will come to mind.

Tornado's idea of getting a separation in the line is just what I was also thinking. GA! The washer water needs to "fall into" the waste stream so siphoning back out of the waste is not possible.

That is if we understand the set up as described.

I think you are going to need to set up a lift station. I would use a container large enough to hold the contents of the washer discharge and set a submersible pump that can handle a little lint. Perhaps using a large container is more than you need (submersible basement pumps are fairly reliable) but I prefer caution. If you want to trust the pump, you could use a 5 gallon bucket and a sump pump. Just let the outlet from the washer flow into the bucket and as the level rises above the automatic switch on the sump pump, it will push the water up to your drain. The advantage to this is if the check valve should fail, the bucket will be large enough to hold the amount of water that falls down the discharge line.

Drew

Is the clothes washer below the level of the dish washer? Could the clothes washer be moved? I'd favor keeping a clothes washer drain as close to the standard arrangement as possible, including the air break. If there is a drain failure while you are away from the house, there could be water damage.

If there is an air break, then the only backflow would be from the drain pipe, which should be about twice normal, but something you could live with, I'd guess. I wonder if the drain pump will tolerate the increase in head for long.

It seems reasonable that the landlord should provide the correct arrangement, unless it was clear upon moving in that he would not, and you have installed your own washer.

Is installation of a laundry tub a possibility? These will usually hold a full washer's drain capacity. You'd still have the washer working against more than the standard head.

use a flexible drain hose and allow wash water to drain into toilet.

If the landlord used the washer and dryer hookups as part of his advertisement for the apartment then he is responsible for the fix. As that is a part of what he based his rent on. Ask for part of the rent back if he did. The back flow of waste in to the washer is a health hazard. It should be address as so with the landlord.

Any modifications to the plumbing by you and you could be responsible for damages. He could even force you to change it back after is done or when you terminate the lease or incur the expense to change it back.

If he does give you the permission to get it fixed make sure you do so in writing. I would get a license plumber to make the changes. They would know the local codes and would be responsible for any damage if incurred from their work.

Now if you decide the expense of the plumber is not worth the trouble of taking it to the laundry. I would insist the the landlord plug of the drain hook up. As you could come home one day and find the waste just not in the washer but all over the floor.

Thanks for the reply but I already know all that. I did not make the rent deal. My girlfriend did and, as I'm sure you know, women don't look for utility aspects to a house but whether it has a fenced in back yard for the dogs and a clean floor. I'm trying not to play hardball with the landlord yet, as he's a nice young man having health problems and probably financial problems as well, not mention his inadequacies as a real estate tycoon. He tried to cash in on the bubble but screwed it up in a number of ways. I just trying to figure out a simple thing to try before I let my confrontational side loose. My thought was to try to come up with a way to prevent the existing check valve from getting clogged up with lint. I am wondering if it would be worth putting a strainer before the check valve, then cleaning it after every wash cycle. Do you think this would have a chance?

I suppose there's reason not to use compressed air to clear the drain prior to use and add a check-valve with strainer at your end that you can service easily.

I think most of us have concerns about strainers clogging with lint and being difficult to clean. Excessive back pressure caused by dirty strainers would not be good for the discharge hose on the back of the washer because it is only designed to lift the water to about 3 feet. If you are going to go with a strainer, make it large in diameter so it will not clog fast.

There have been some other good ideas here, you might bring in a plumber to get an estimate. I do not know your exact situation, but there may be a plumbing access lower. For instance, if your laundry machine is in the basement, there may be a clean-out fitting or another easy way to access your waste line. A plumber could come in and give you some information and an estimate, you could use that information and try it yourself or hire a local handy-man. Just be careful and make sure your handyman is not a rip off artist.

Drew

You could use a wye strainer with a filter mesh sized to catch the heavy stuff that might get caught in the check valve but lets the fine lint pass. They are easy to clean. The filter element is stainless steel screen. Any lint that's impacted into the filter screen mesh can be burn out. The screen material will handle the heat. Most supplier will list different filter mesh sizes for the strainer. Replacement filters are inexpensive.

Most of these valve have a pressure gauge port so with a gauge installed you can see if the filter is clogged.

The real problem is the water in the 8 foot of hose.

if you were to have a proper drybreak at the dishwasher drain all the water in the hose would drain back down into the washing machine.

you could try to install a much larger sized check valve or strainer & clean it after every use.

How far below ground level is the washing machine?

Can you blow the drain water out into the garden or lawn?

I appreciate all the help you guys have provided. Today, I'm going to try to fix the mess with help of a young man who did some of the recent remodeling of this house. Our first order of business will be to replace the 1 1/4" copper nipple and male adapter that I twisted off yesterday trying to get the galvanized elbow that connects the washer drain to the DW pipe, which is 3" copper. I've never seen copper used in DW systems. It's very pretty for what it does. The next step will be to create an air gap by fashioning a reverse trap on the side of the DW line where the parts are to be replaced. Using 3/4" PVC fittings, I'll extend the "U" shaped trap about 6" above the DW line. On the opposite end of the connection to the copper, I'll attach the 3/4" rubber hose that goes down to the washer hose. I already installed a shut-off valve in this hose, as the check valve has not been working and intend to get a strainer, as well, to install before the existing check valve, which I'll have to clean again. I hope this gap will solve the problem. The only obvious thing to watch for is failure in the washer pump, as it will be pumping up hill about 4' above the top of the washer tub. I have an old sump pump I could then install in a bucket to take the load off the pump. How does this plan sound?

You could try 5/8th's hose instead to reduce the amount in the hose

xclnt suggestion! In fact by guess, i'd say the the weight lifted would then be very very close to standard, and the little difference in wall friction would not be enough to worry about. Hook this to a standard j pipe at the break, and yer good to go.

I should say "volume lifted" because the head would still be high, but probably not worrisome. (The pumps are usually centrifugal with rigid vanes, I think?)

It looks like I'm not going to get it done today--no copper fittings yet. What's a "J" pipe? Is that the washing machine outlet hose?

Yes,

preformed j pipes come with all residential washing machines...

Sounds like you have some good ideas, let us know how it all works out.

Drew