Bi-Metal Controls for Firebox Temperatures

Nope, I sure don't.

However, I speculate the manufacturer of your furnace has them... And if you get an OEM (or approved) part, you might not burn yer house down.

"And if you get an OEM (or approved) part, you might not burn yer house down."

And, if it does, your insurance company can't point to this modification as the cause of the loss.

Northern tool has them

Throttling a wood burning stove in any way can lead to huge explosions.

What usually happens is:- stove was hot, the damper closed down, the fire went mostly out through lack or air (oxygen),the stove cooled down, the damper opened again and got spontaneous re-ignition of a few sparks that were left and all the wood gas produced from the high heat when it shut down explodes.....usually in the face of the person that opens the door to the stove generally!!!

I would suggest NOT fitting anything at all to such a stove.....they are dangerous enough in the wrong hands without adding extra problems.....

A damper is usually (not always though!) the part that controls just the exhaust gas, used wrongly this can fill a house quickly with CO (Carbon Monoxide) and kill anyone sleeping without even waking them up!!!

On good stoves you cannot completely close off either the damper or the air supply, which helps considerably to make them far safer for all concerned.....amateurish attemps to "improve" them can be fatal....

Thanks for the words of wisdom. However, you seem to have missed the point of the purpose for the control since this the device that prevents the "coking" effect you mention. A draft control along with a bleed-vent that maintains a safe level of combustion within the firebox prevents this hazard. Thanx for the response tho.

Jim

Even on stoves designed correctly with this in mind, an "amateur" can still cause dangerous effects.

That is why there are house fires, explosions and gassing killing people every year!!!

I did a google search and found many over 39,000 entries (not all accidents, but a large number are just that!) under "wood stove accident", try it yourself! You are treating this aspect FAR too lightly......that can give the uninformed a wrong impression that can give fatal problems....

Imagine how many such accidents do NOT make it onto the web!! At least double is my guess!!! And that was just the English speaking ones!!

Look here from a commercial site:-

woodstove-safety-procedures

...and you will find this sentence (with which I completely and fully agree!):-

But you cannot just conclude that stove is saver than fireplace, once you carelessly maintain the stove, the result could be more dangerous than fireplace.

The one I liked best (humour wise) from the Google search of 39,101 Hits was

"Wood stove catches fire.........."

My wood furnace has available a fan that forces air into the draft control when the thermostat on the wall calls for heat. I do not have one, but I suspect that it would cause a lot of problems while smoldering in between calling for heat. Just throttling it down at night causes small controllable chimney fires in the morning when I open it back up. It must be slowly throttled up allowing controlled burning of the fumes in the chimney. Then I burn it hot to get rid of any build up. It could be a problem if someone did not understand what is happening.

This is caused (as you may already know!) by the residual heat, "cooking" the unburnt wood and creosote and other chemicals are "distilling" out into the soot. These can and do cause uncontrollable chimney fires.

This is one of the reasons I sold my wood burner 4 winters ago and bought a pellets stove.....everything is burnt, no smoke (which is both a sign of burnable gases and nano particles as well!), relatively clean and loads, starts & stops itself once the hopper is full.....and NO SOOT! Just about 1 Kg ash from 100 Kg pellets....