Woodburner Problems

When the oil boom died down, in,Giddings,Texas,I went to work with a company supplying Gas Busters for around 20-25 Oil Gas Drilling Rigs.Gas Busters allowed Drilling Ahead in porous formations below the chalk.

My equipment was a 45 ft high tank,Six foot diameter,with a 20" pipe come from the top of the chamber,going to Gas vent line.(roughly ~4 Ton weight)

My Boss,allowed two 90 degree elbows.One at the bottom of the Gas Buster and the other on the end of the Flare Line.Not to exceed 20 feet in the air.I have seen 20 " diameter pipe,(.025 thick)400 feet long ,become very flexible,IE:the top of the gas buster worked on chaotic bursts of near vacuum pressure to HUGE high pressure in 20" line.(Gas Kicks by Mother Nature Venting)

The point I am trying to make is think and work safely,,sorry no more feedback,,other than possibly,you might need more Intake Volume Primary,And a Exhaust Volume Secondary,, this may or may not make sense to you,as it confuses,terms.

I would give you 5 stars for Effort,,and would, pray you continue,SAFELY,,please pardon the capital letters,they are not meant to shout,but to make Important,Safety comes First.

I would think a Hot Exhaust,as close as possible to,Wood Burning Fire,might be the Primary for forced air tubed wrapped around,Hot Exhaust?Shucks,,,run a 4 inch diameter cold iron,naked,1/4' thick pipe THRU Wood burning Fire?,,one end suction of your choice,same with discharge.

Congratulations on your Project.I haven't looked at the Photo Bucket Photos,but I will probably comment there also,again(sorry) Think SAFTY,define your max out put and do not exceed.

If you have a good supply of wood,there is no better heat in the world.

Joe in Texas

Complete and post a better diagram of your project...I am also interested in wood burning stoves. It is a misconception that burning wood is any worst on the environment than other fossil fuels, for allowing the trees to rot produces almost the same amount of carbon dioxide. Nice project...stay with it. Keeping soot off the glass may be solved partially by deflecting air flow away from it and keeping the combustion adequate by maintaining good airflow (from below the fuel) to the fire.

i have designed and built a outside wood stove with a water jacket to heat my house.

in my quest for a clean burn, i have tried many systems. a clean burn seems to be by the amount of fuel in the stove. my firebox is 4ft x 4ft x 4ft. my fan is 450 cfm, with this amount of air flow a full stove will smoke continuously, although it will last about 48 hours. i notices as the fuel (wood) burned down the amount of smoke reduced. i eventually found that with these parameters about 50 lbs of fuel is all i could put in the stove to get a clean burn. this amount of fuel would only last for about 3 hrs. i looked at your photos on photo bucket. try reducing the size/amount/weight of the wood in the stove. i believe you will find the the correct amount of fuel to load for your system. you will be surprised at the small amount of fuel needed for your system to burn clean.

hope this might help you. if you have any questions please contact me thanks

three air intake tubes?

I'll bet they are insufficient.

The 19 mm pipe seems to be going from the top of the combustion chamber to the bottom, I see nothing to induce air flow.

Look at other designs to see how secondary burn works. I've always liked the one that was a large round drum with a smaller round drum over it, both horizontal. Very inexpensive construction, but seemed to work.

Another secondary burn is done in catalytic devices on the stove pipe. They looked good to me, but I haven't been burning wood for a long time. Maybe new stuff has come up, and maybe some old ideas have proven faulty.

The other poster had a very good point. Too much fuel in the firebox will absorb heat and lower firebox temperature. Secondary burn will not happen at low temps.