1994 Honda Accord Won't Start

Check fuel pump relay, sounds like fuel loss.Google Honda repair Forums for location of relay, and other possible remedies to your problem.

If it was quite low on fuel when parked and it's on an angle it may not have enough fuel for the pump to pick up. I think that happened to us with an Accord...

This is not an all-inclusive list, and it is possible under some circumstances to add or delete items. It is a basic performance testing menu.

Basic testing sequence:

Pre (cold) start attempt:

Check for proper battery voltage

Install fuel pressure gauge

Check for pressure and volume (check spec table in repair manual)

Install engine analyzer

Check for spark at a minimum of two cylinders

Check for injector pulse at a minimum of two cylinders

Pull codes

Check ECM/ECU data stream

Attempt to start: if starts and runs:

During running, recheck:

Fuel pressure/volume

Primary/secondary ignition scope traces

ECM data stream

Check if you have a spark by pulling one of the spark plug wires and spark plug, put the plug in the spark plug wire socket, place the spark plug electrode on a grounded surface, turn the engine over and see if you have a spark. If so, reinstall the plug and wires and spray some starter fluid, ether, or a small amount of gasoline in the air intake downstream of the air filter and see if the engine will start. If so, it may be a stuck fuel pump. Lower the back of the rear seat and loosen the carpet in the trunk. There is a fuel level sensor installed in the gas tank with wires going to it. Follow those wires to the left side of the trunk and you will find another electrical connector. One of those wires goes to the fuel pump. If you run a wire with a probe (a small finishing nail insulated with tape will do) from the positive battery post to the connector and make and break a connection several times you can sometimes jar the fuel pump into running. You will hear the pump if it starts to turn. Reconnect the wires and see if the engine will now crank.

I used to have this problem frequently with a 1995 Nissan Sentra. It would be running just fine when I parked it but when I came back to start it, it would not start. The dealership always insisted that it was flooded, but could never explain to me how it got flooded. They finally installed, at my expense, a kit to keep it from getting flooded, but it did not work. I donated it to a charity and will never buy another Nissan.

Hello Guest,

Do you have the 2.2 L, with DOHC, 16 valves engine.

Sounds like the timing chain broke or jumped time.

Have you changed any parts since you owned your Accord?

Regards, Tim

I have a 94 accord, I had the same problem for a few months, but it would work after a few attempts. You should hear the fuel pump turn on.

Turned out to be the fuel pump relay. (somewhere in the dash)

From what the guy that repaired mine this is a common problem.

I had a 1990 Accord with same problem.I googled the Honda Forums, and discovered it was the fuel pump relay under the dash on drivers side.Mine was red in color, and was easy to see, but hard to remove.I disassembled the relay, cleaned the contacts, resoldered all factory solder joints, and reinstalled.No more problems.

This relay is actually a double coil relay.One section goes to the engine computer, the other goes to the fuel pump.It normally operates at a high temperature and eventually the solder joints become crystallized and unreliable.By removing the old solder and replaceing it with new the problem is solved for the next 10 years or so.

When you turn your igniton to "ON" you should hear a brief clicking sound.This is your fuel pump building up pressure.If you do not hear this, it is either your relay or pump.

Another note:

If your vehicle is not designed for Tri Fuel, do not use the Ethanol-Gasoline mixture.The methanol quickly destroys the commutators on standard fuel pumps.This info is from my son who used to work in a lab developing fuel pumps for tri fuel applications.Seems the Methanol destroys the normal protective layer that forms on the commutator, and is very corrosive to copper.

FWIW

I had the same problem but changing the fuel pump relay didn't fix it. Applying 12 volts to the fuel pump many times in a row got it going. I assume that either the pump was sticking or one commutator plate was bad. The rapid multiple hits with 12 volts either loosened it up or shifted to a good commutator plate. It hasn't failed to start since.

Testing is the only way to know what is wrong, but the distributor on these engines are prone to developing oil leaks which tend to cause the ignition pick up to not generate a signal. Inside that dist is three separate pick ups. One for ignition coil signal, one for the engine speed signal for the computer, AND, one for the timing for the fuel injectors. Pull the cap, and the rotor. Then remove the plastic shield below and look for oil build up. If you see oil, use a non flammable brake cleaner to spray it out. After it is clean again, reassemble and try starting. If that cures it, you still have the oil seepage problem, but at least it is a slow seepage. I don't know if the oil leak can be repaired, you might have to buy a distributer. Good luck. Remember I said test first.