2002 Dodge Ram 1500 Overheating Help

You'll be lucky if it's a head gasket. The other options are cracked head or cracked block.

"i can hear a driping sound coming from the engine as it slowly consumes the coolant"? Is this with the engine running?

Do you have any way to know whether the water pump (coolant pump) is working? Start by checking that its drive pulley is going around with the drive belt. LOOK at the pump; most have a "weep hole" on the lower side of the casting to permit coolant to exit if the seals go bad, rather than forcing it into the oil supply. That could be where your coolant is going, and where it drips from.

I'm not familiar with that specific engine and installation; on many vehicles you can pull the radiator cap, start the engine, and see coolant flow in the filler neck or top header tank. If the pump doesn't work, usually the gauge will stay low for perhaps slightly longer than normal, then shoot straight into the overheated range. If it's a head gasket, SOMETIMES you can leave the radiator cap loose, so that the system cannot pressurize, and drive a bit. Leaving the cap loose permits gases lost from the cylinders to exit to atmosphere; exhaust gases within the cooling system will raise the temperature in a bubble around the sensor and generate a very high reading, as well as risk damage to hoses and the radiator.

GA for a good, well thought out common sense approach.....

If the OP follows that through he should get an idea where to start.

I have experienced the loss of the "blades" on the water pump (Renault), don't ask me where they went to I never ever saw them, but everything else was in order, only a visual found the problem.

A hand on the hoses will also tell if the hot water is circulating or not in most cases....thermostat must also be checked out.....

(Thanks, Andy) I've had part of a plastic impeller fail on a VW 1.8T, with similar symptoms. I retrofitted it with the earlier type cast-iron impeller pump, and have done another 100,000 miles so far. I've also seen a press-fitted impeller on another brand slip on the shaft - and it would work until after it got fairly warm, then get looser, which increased engine temperature, etc. Felt normal, cold, after removal, but holding it with a pair of potholders after heating in near-boiling water confirmed the problem very clearly. Wonder who thought that a cast aluminum impeller on a smooth steel shaft was a good idea! They probably got a bonus for eliminating a 5-cent knurling operation.

Hope that OP will keep us updated - there have been several very good suggestions made.

Hi Ron,

you made some very interesting points and I am fascinated to learn what make of car forgot the knurling? (or better said the supplier, but ultimately the manufacturer has to take the blame!!!)

I will also keep those points in mind if I get such a problem in the future....many thanks.

Andy, I'm embarassed to say that I am not sure what brand it wasm (25+ years ago) - it MIGHT have been one of the Chrysler Omni-Horizon twins, with the VW engine from the A1-series Golf/Rabbit - but Chrysler modified a number of components, and totally replaced others (like the head!), making it difficult to sort out who had supplied what, and whose design was used. Worse, I do recall that it was a friend's car, bought used (and likely 4th or 5th owner), so that there could have been an aftermarket pump in place when his failed. Those cars also came with either of two Mitsubishi engines, at various times, probably also bastar . . . uhhh, REVISED by Chrysler.

LOL!!

But thanks anyway!!!

Pressure check the cooling system to see if it will hold pressure. Also, you can do a coolant combustion gas test to see if combustion gases are entering the coolant.

You possibly have major problems. Check it ASAP.

Advance Auto, Auto Zone and Pep Boys have loaner tools. Get a pressure tester and fill with water and pressure test the system. Look at hoses, water pump,heater core and radiator. If non of these is leaking start the engine with pressure on the system if the gauge pulsates pull the heads and take them to a machine shop and have them pressure tested. Clean the block and lay a flashlight flat on the block look for cracks especially between the cylinders. A machine can bore and sleeve the two cylinders.

A rebuilt short block or long block will fix this problem.

1. Understand that overheating problems may be caused by a low coolant level, the radiator being plugged, the thermostat may be stuck, or other related common cooling system problems.
2. 
   Check the coolant level at the radiator overflow/plastic coolant reservoir tank to see if you're low on coolant (see "How to Check Your Car's Coolant Level," under Related eHows). Add if necessary.
3. 
   Open the radiator cap and look inside the radiator when the engine is cold.
   
4. Fill the radiator with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water if it's empty or low, and close the cap.
5. 
   Look at both the lower and upper radiator hoses located at the top and bottom of the radiator on the back side and held by hose clamps. Make sure the hoses are securely clamped to the radiator and aren't leaking.
6. 
   Touch both the upper and lower radiator hoses when the engine is warm and the car turned off. They should both be somewhat warm. If one is cold, you may have a thermostat that's stuck closed.
7. 
   Use the palm of your hand to feel the outside of the radiator from top to bottom when the engine is warm and the car turned off. It should be warm to the touch evenly throughout. If there's a cold section, you may have a radiator that's internally blocked.
8. 
   Check under the car, inspect the radiator and look around the engine compartment for telltale signs of a coolant leak: Coolant is usually greenish, slippery and sweet-smelling.
9. 
   If there is always a puddle of coolant under your car it could be due to water pump failure, or a cracked coolant reservoir.
10. 
    Visit your mechanic if you know there's a leak but can't find it. A mechanic can detect a slow or small coolant leak by pressurizing the cooling system.

Your coolant has to be going somewhere, Either into the engine or leaking outside.Sometimes you can spot an approximate area if you place a piece of cardboard or light colored paper under the vehicle and see where coolant is dripping from if its leaking outside. If you check your engine's oil dip stick and you see a soupy colored oil on the dipstick the oil is going into the engine somewhere. If you get the soupy oil bit, its usually internal and you should consult with your mechanic for further diagnosis. If you can determine it is leaking externally, than depending just where, you might be able to tackle the job yourself ie, water pump, radiator, hose etc. The question that arises is; did the thermostat stick closed and caused the overheat problem which in turn caused , for example, a hose to burst , radiator to split somewhere? Sometimes just a leak will cause bigger problems if not caught in time to prevent further damage. If you feel so inclined , please keep us informed as to just what the problem really was. Thanks

Got Oil?

Checked for milkyness on the dipstick?

Hows the radiator cap? (Dad's RV couldn't go 35 min. down the highway W/O puking coolant.Near civilization we bought a radiator cap.The last 1-1/2 hours home was a breeze).

Thermostat opening?

Always check the silly stuff first.

AB1 out.

i never had overheating problems but was going thru antifreeze went to start one to go to work and motor was more less vapor locked anyways took it in for headgaskets tore it down and found valley 1/16 wide and 3/8 long and was pouring antifreeze on top of the cylinder was burning it off till it got bad enough or to much to burn off