Dodge Caravan Runs Hot - Doesn't Start Anymore

Check the computer codes. That will give you a place to start troubleshooting. The computer codes can be accessed by turning the ignition key on to run then off, do that 3 times, the third time leave it on. The count the number of times the check engine light flashes. There are two numbers in each code. A 55 (double five flashes) indicates there are no more codes. After you get the code, look it up in GOOGLE or in a maintenance manual.

Hi Himart:

I did the test several times:

From 0 to run (not start) one, two and the third time left it on:

The whole Christmas tree is on and goes out except the engine sign (and the belt) after a while the engine sign blinks 10 times.

I did this 3 times in a row with the same result.

The flashes came with the same interval, no distinction. What does it tell?

Its possibly the head gasket, Check compressions.

If petrol/gas around 150 psi should suffice and all cylinders should be about the same

The irony is that it happened on the way of getting parts for the old Benz. And except for the glow plugs, they send a ignition key for a regular shift gas type, and the wrong type of injectors. I'm fixing it now. The contact I repaired with the new parts partially and the engine functions normally. Just clean up the mess. Wish I had a code reader, or knew someone who has. Took me 14 days to get the wrong parts here and 25% handling fee and 37% tax. Maybe it is time for the dodge to rest till I can find a code reader. The engine is a injection type and the distributor (I think it is- rectangular box atop of the water pump has been very hot too) I will keep you all posted. Thank you for the input.

Check my post (#1) on how to get your codes without a code reader.

You're lucky that you are on an island. And you have a boat. These vehicles do not lend themselves to home repairs.

himart's advice about codes is good.

Good luck.

I had one once,

There is a short bit of hose (about 4 inches long) that runs from the water pump to the engine block. In my case this bit of hose broke and leaked out the water in the system causing over heating.

I could actually restart it, but it made a horrible racket when I did.

The heads are aluminum, I had over heated the head and the valve sleeve shifted and came into contact with a piston.

I had to have the heads rebuilt.

1.Check for water in oil..hold burning match as if to light dipstic oil..if it spatters when hot, theres water in oil.2. Remove water fillercap, fill up completely and crank enjin..if bubbles come out,gasket blown or head cracked.3. Do silinder-leakage test to find rings leak or stuck valves.

4pour some jeyes fluid or penetrating oil in through sparkplug holes to loosen rings that might be stuck..leave overnight, pour some oil in, crank enjin, charge battery, put sparkplugs back ...try starting. If it starts, feed some oil to the intake manifold.

Remember to earth coil wire if it is not connected to prevent fire or ign.system damage.

I hope it is not that serious. No oil in the water, no water in the oil. Engine turns around but doesn't take over. Has a computer in it - drive gear train or something? And no distributor. 3.3L type engine. Injection. Need to find out - heard of a DIS system controller? And plenty of probes.

It should be noted that overheating a modern engine made with aluminum heads will most likely suffer significant damage the will at minimum require the head to be rebuilt. Valve guide and valve seats have been known to come loose. Cracks and or warping of the head have been observed. The head deck of the engine block may even warp. Block warpage has even caused crankshaft bearing problems. Any of these problems will causes internal coolant leaks and internal damage if engine is kept running. So an overheating should not be taken lightly. The engine should be thoroughly checked before putting it back into service so that more damage won't occur. Cast iron engines fair better when overheated, but being cast iron, is no guarantee in avoiding problems associated with overheating.

I also noticed the odometer showing P0601 FOLLOWED BY donE.

DVM,

Found some posts pretty quickly when searching for your code. On a related note, it's good that your electronic display odometer displays the codes, now you know that you don't need to buy an OBDII reader! You should probably try to find further instructions on reading out the codes on the odometer, I imagine there are ways to scroll through codes if there is more than one, stuff like that. Anyway, here's a couple of posts from another forum that may be of benefit.

I would try what the first post suggests, to see if that clears anything up, but if that code is still there, I'm going to guess your situation is more like the second post. By the way, I'm pretty sure PCM=Powertrain Control Module. If your mileage is <80K, perhaps you can get this under warranty, provided there's a place on the island that is a Dodge warranty service center? Hope this helps, good luck.

Tom

Try this, disconnect the negative battery terminal and then hold the ignition key in the start position for at least 20 seconds, this will wipe out all stored codes in the PCM. Reconnect the negative battery terminal and drive, if the code shows up again then it is time to go to the dealer. Depending on miles this should be covered under warranty, because it has to with emissions. Hopes this helps

Well I took my D to the dealer and basically that code is cut and dry. The PCM is shot, There is not anything else that will cause p0601 code. It is covered under the 80k emissions warranty, so it, at least is no cost to me.

Hope this helps someone in the future.

Thanks Tdesmit: I will try the trick with disconnecting the minus and the key in start position. I also found many post that point to replacement.

I am on a remote island in the Bahamas and warranty doesn't work here. There are even no dealers.

Found some addresses that repair and reprogram these PCM's, starting from $289.00 - in exchange of the old one. Here that means $50 transportation extra, $90 brokerage fee and about 50 % import tax extra.

That is how the system works here, the nation needs income too.

So I'll check around some more. I appreciate your help and will give feedback. D

The code P601 indicates the MAP sensor has failed. It is easy to change on this engine.

Not sure where you got that info, but every hit I got for code "P0601" for a Dodge, said it's PCM Failure.

This link, and this website in general, would be a good place to go to get some help with your issue. Of course, if you've overheated the engine, once the PCM issue is resolved, you may have a shot engine to deal with :(

Tom

I HAD THE DATE WRONG - DODGE GRAND CARAVAN 2003

'94 DODGE CARAVAN, HOT, many problems await you, modern auto's seldom run hot, the fuel mix is too rich, this vehicle has TWO computers onboard, either may have "locked out" the start up. Disconnect the Battery for 10 minutes then reconnect and attempt a restart, if restart is made and engine sounds ok consider it a MIRACLE, DO NOT DRIVE, if engine is noisey have a mechanic look at it or Leave the engine lid open and continue to run enginel; no fingers inside engine compartment! CHECK fans with AC on, at least one fan should run with AC, If one or both fans run, OFF AC, Let engine run to warm up (may already be there), if fans run at warm up check for noise, shut down engine and recheck oil for milky appearance (water in oil, bad news) and correct level, RECHECK coolant level and apperance, if OK, restart engine, recheck instruments for warning lights and gauges for in limits indications. Turn OFF engine remove key, "feel" of fan blades and movement should be free and smooth, no looseness, with trans in neutral hold foot on brake if on incline.car should move freely. These vehicles have a problematic ABS auto brake sys, the brake may part or full lockup and ruin the engine and transmission I speak from experience. Donot operate until a full mechanical safety inspection is completed, good luck. Milton

For the future, always keep an eye on the temp gauge on any vehicle you drive, get used to looking at it once in 5 mins or less.

If you notice the temp climbing, leave engine ticking over and add water, switching off is not a good idea if you have access to water.

Of course if you have no access to water, you have no choice but to switch off, but remember that the water pump and fan (on some cars only) also stop, all the heat remains in the engine and can damage things......

Using synthetic oil will give you a little more insurance in this area, not a lot, but some......

Its a shame that few cars have any sorts of audible alarm for overheating, low coolant etc., that really "ATTRACT" your attention come what may......a good project for the future.....

It is good idea to check the coolant when an over temp is indicated. Water is only a temporary substitute when nothing else is available. You should only use coolant specified for your engine due to the different combinations of metals used in an engine have different requirements needed to prevent corrosion and clogging the radiator. Also, coolant has a higher boiling point needed due to modern engines are meant to run at higher temperature that would normally boil water. NOW THE CAVIATE. NEVER ... NEVER REMOVE OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR CAP WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT. IF THE COOLENT WASN'T BOILING, IT MIGHT WHEN YOU RELIEVE THE PRESSURE THAT IS CREATED BY THE RADIATOR CAP AND POSIBILY GET YOURSELF SEVERELY SCALDED BY THE RESULTANT SPRAY OF VERY HOT WATER AND STEAM! You can help hasten the cooling by either running cool water over the outside of the radiator or using a fan blowing on the radiator and engine.

3.3? How come? Check if someone changed the ( cilinders before you) if those cilinders are made of the right kind of material... or it could be the cooler or something which was not designed to be there, I mean kind of modification´s others made to the engine, like drawing a wider hole for the water cooler and pressure is less... or whatever... or if it was trimmed before then a miscalculation on a cilinder when shaped...

may be of use

http://www.scottykilmer.com/

Disconnected the battery, did the start trick and checked for codes again: Shows P1684 (battery been disconnected) and then unfortunate P0601 again. The engine still turns around with the starter. Thanks

Try disconnecting the MAP sensor because a defective MAP sensor can prevent the engine from starting. Without the MAP sensor the engine PMC will revert to the LIMP mode, but the engine should start if the MAP sensor is faulty.

I see no alternative to a complete strip down (or buy a cheap secondhand motor) and examine of all bearings, pistons and bores and head assemblies, as I did not get a hint as to just how long the engine was running too hot and under what conditions of load, nor of exactly what oil type......

Years ago my wife filled our diesel car with Petrol (gas) and then went for a fast run down the autobahn for about 50 miles. When she stopped, the motor was blowing the last of the cooling water out.

She switched off the motor.

She phoned me.

At my wish she filled the rad after running water from a hose over the motor and rad till it was just warm to touch.

At my wish she filled up with diesel to the brim, after adding about 1 pint of engine lube oil to the diesel tank.

She drove home and I found that the head was split/had a tiny leak between two valves in one cylinder, a new head fixed the problem for the next 150,000 kilometers....then we sold the car.....

We had no more problems with the head, the turbo or the injection pump (petrol ruins injection pumps for diesel engines).

We were DAMN lucky......but we had very good quality oil in the engine, I am sure that that helped......

I finally made it.

Replaced 2 heads, gaskets, bolts and had the computer repaired 2 times.

I love the simplicity of this V6. I still don't know if I messed the PCM up these times, or the repair shop forgot something. I didn't find anything wrong in the electrical circuits or components.

I did almost 200 miles with the dodge caravan and the fuel economy improved dramatically.

Perhaps I will learn to appreciate this vehicle soon? I wish to thank you all for your help. D

DVMDSC, thanks for coming back and updating the group. I'm always frustrated when reading down through a thread of posts, only to find that the original poster never returns to provide the final details.

Tom D.