Waste Plumbing Not Vertical

You can buy a 'straight' connector which has a joint in the middle at a slight angle, roating the ends changes the amount of bend . E.G it's an adjusta ble bend from 0-10 degrees or so.
Dunno what they are called...check out your local plumbing supplier/google etc.

here's one...0-90!
Del

Looks as if I could get one if I lived in the UK. Haven't yet found one of those in the US. I'm still looking though. Thanks.

I doubt you will find one in 3". The couplers in Del's link are 32mm (1-1/4") and 40mm (1-1/2"). I have not seen one for 3", but they may exist.

From your description, there is not enough room for one. Is the toilet flange already glued on? If yes, does it project above floor level?

A tall wax ring will take up that much. It's not ideal but neither is your plumbing job. That's why they make the tall ones. Just make sure that your fixture is not rocking when finished, that will kill the seal.

Welcome to the plumber world.

The waste pipe is at a slant to provide a run off of the waste inside it. The 3" gap that you are talking about is a bit confuseing. Dose this mean that you need to raise the toilet by 3" off of the floor to make the connection?. If this is the case I would dig out the floor and cut back the pipe so that the connection can be made. or set the toilet on a plinth to make up the differance. In effect raising the floor level.

To have a 3" gap the pipe must be about 30feet long to come out in the man-hole at the correct distence from the top of the man-hole. Or the man-hole is so close to the toilet that they have had to put it at this angle to alow for the correct depth down in the man-hole.

The toilet sits flush with the floor. The gap is around the pipe. Styrofoam was placed around the pipe when the concrete was poured. After the concrete set, the styrofoam was removed.

Try posting this question on

http://www.plbg.com/

Some "real" plumbers there can usually steer you in the right direction. The site can also provide plumbing tools and parts. I've had good luck with both their advice and parts.

he said vertical, not horizantal... the gap is left or right...

Ha If you go to you local plumber merchant or even Home depot there is a adaptor used to convert cast iron to ABS this will can be inserted in the 3" and then screwed to the floor you will need

ULN Q287 Closet flange extension Kit

make sure you place some Wax seal between each flange ring when fitting each one

then use

ULN Q225 Wax Seal with Nylon Horn G237 to fit the tiolet

to the Guy in the UK Pan Connector are used in Europe you will not find one in North America to save your Life

The wax ring previously suggested is used to 1) form a vapor/liquid seal between the closet flange and the bottom of the toilet (water closet); and 2) fill in any angular irregularities between the flange and the bottom of the toilet, such as you have. When making up the 10⁰ difference you have use a combination of items. Instead of using the regular wax ring use one which has the plastic "funnel" as an integral part of it. This will help directing the flow into the pipe and make up for the angular irregularity. Also, place another plain wax ring on top of the afore mentioned wax ring to increase it's height. Won't hurt, any excess wax just gets squeezed to the side below the toilet and doesn't reach the sides of the bottom of the toilet.

Remember to place the wax ring/funnel and the additional wax ring on the toilet prior to placing it on the closet flange. Flipping the toilet over to put them on is the easiest, they won't fall off when you go to place the toilet.

Before you put anything together set the toilet down on the floor where it will be located and make a light pencil tracing on the floor where the outer perimeter of the bottom of the toilet will be. When you get the wax rings on the inverted toilet and just prior to putting it onto the closet flange (with brass toilet bolts) put about a 1/4" thick by 2" wide strip of wet plaster of paris inside the pencil tracing outline. While the plaster is still wet put your toilet back in place and bolt it down. Don't use the toilet till the plaster has dried. This will form a full contact base between the bottom of the toilet and the floor. It will also keep the toilet from "rocking" when personnel sit on it. The bottom surface of toilets is not a perfect "plane" nor are most floors.

First, if there is a 3" clearance around the pipe how did the original plumber plan on attaching the water closet flange to the floor?

Second I have used a push in type water closet flange. It does not glue to the pipe. Instead it has a pipe with a seal that fits inside the 3" DWV pipe. Ace Hardware has it for around $15.00 US. Use some Vaseline or bees wax from the wax seal to lube the seal before installing. The flange must be attached to the floor with screws or the toilet will fall over when you sit on it. Another bonus with these is if the metal flange becomes damaged then the whole thing can be removed and replaced as it is not glued in.

DRAWBACK: This style of flange does reduce the opening that the waste passes thru. I have not had troubles with clogs yet though.

Try this link for other options.

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/toiletflanges.html