Electric Motor/Capacitor Specs and Connection

Normally before dismantling or rectifying, the process starts with making a diagram from the existing to know its working conditions, when you removed from the Washing machine you should have noted its earlier connections making a rough sketch from it. As these things can only be confirmed if we have clear data of the motor and the capacitor. which can be obtained from the manufacturer.

As per the photos it seems a single phase motor but with a capacitor in series we can know the connection from the previous connected state only.

Right on, but as I remember the washing machine was quite old, the diagram in the back part of it was quite blurred with moulds and most of the cables were just hanging there. I should have payed more attention back then you are right...any suggestions?...Thanks in advance.

What he meant was that you should make a drawing of all the connections before you start taking it apart!!

All you have is a single phase induction motor with either a start capacitor or a start and run capacitor......

If you can wire them together as they were before, it should start & run.

As already mentioned, its way too low a power for normal wood turning, or are you only going to turn up tooth picks and the like? Then its fine.

If I was you, I would go to a scrapyard and look for a 3 to 5 HP single phase motor 110 volts AC, still attached to its starting capacitor. Test it, Take a Megger and check the insulation properly before purchase, (I have seen some motors that looked about a 1000 years old but worked just fine) and if it works and the insulation is also good, sort out a price!!!

If the bearings are noisy, pay less! And replace the bearings with the same type before installing.....

Scrap price is usually just the copper content!!

Stop! Halt! Wait! I hate to rain on your parade, but, unless you're turning toothpicks, you don't have enough motor there for any serious woodworking. Maybe some of the woodworking guys can help.

There are woodworking forums, too. Good luck.

173 watts = 0.231996821 hp

You are right mate, it might be low for wood turning. But I have seen some mini lathes in the web with 1/4 hp motors on it; and I thought mine might be kind of closer to the number. Don't know, just an idea, plus it's a free motor ;)....any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Oh, in that case go for it! I envisioned someone turning table legs. Sorry for the red flag. Put that free motor to use.

do you have any suggestions/ideas for the motor and capacitor's connections?

Sorry, electrons give me headaches. If there's no schematic, I'm lost.

Don't worry though. There are some really smart people here who know about such things and once they see that you are trying to cobble a DIY lathe together, they'll help you figure out the hook-up.

Good luck.

I will try and help with your dilemma, (or make it worse). The leads out of the motor is both power leads one for fast and one for slower. To check wich is which, you may measure the resistance from neutral to one of the lines. The higher resistance of the two will be your slow speed. The capacitor is a combination start and run capacitor. The temp on the cap is simply the ambient temp's range within which the cap will safely operate. BUT, are you sure you want to use this "micky mouse" motor for a wood lathe?

I strongly recomend that you look to another motor it will be on the small side for what you want. A 3/4HP motor is probably as small as you want to go for a small machine.

Also your motor is an open style and will choke with wood dust you need an enclosed design.

Thanks everyone for all the info you all have given to me, I would like to ask something else; should I add some circuit/motor whatever proctection ckt to the design of my minilathe?