Rust in Gas Tank

Some automotive radiator shops will cook out and repair a gas tank. Check around your area , they may be able to help you out. The only problem is you have to remove the tank yourself or have someone do it for you.

h

Trinitro toulene hehehehe

ps what sort of tank

car

lorry

bus

above ground storage

under ground storage

fuel tanker

what ?

Too bad you don't know how to search:

1. Rust Removal - Tech Review - Motorcycle Cruiser
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3. How to remove rust from your motorcycle's fuel tank
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5. Fuel Tank Rust Removal - Steel Soldiers::Military Vehicles Supersite

When I was younger, they sold machines that were supposed to help people loose weight. Sort of a motor mounted horizontally at waist level, with a wheel on either side. Attached off center to the wheels was a mount for a belt that went around your part of your body that needed reduction. So as the motor rotated, the belt would try to twist one's butt side to side.

Your description of cleaning the gas tank would have been so much easier if one was using one of these machines. Just a thought.

External or internal?

My experience has been that if there is a rusty interior you're far better off in the long run with replacing the gas tank.

This is because whatever you do to treat the tank to remove the rust, it (the rust) will most likely keep coming back over and over again, causing a whole host of problems down the road into the future such as: clogged fuel filter, failed pickup pump, clogged fuel line, and clogged carb venturi jets.

Been there and have done it several times over the years.

It's better to play it safe then sorry....

Eastwood corp sells a product that is designed exactly for sealing gas tanks in older vehicles that are not available any more.

If I was the one that had to go through the bother of removing rust from the bottom of my gas tank, I would be damn certain that I did not let it develop water in it again.

Bob, is that Eastwood product similar to their Rust Encapsulating product(s)? I haven't used it yet, but have contemplated buying it in the near future.

You're correct to want to make sure that the tank is properly sealed and corrosion-free during a rehab, especially if the tank is not available anymore aftermarket or OEM (ie, irreplaceable).

I've used their rust removers (gel and liquid), similar to Evap-o-Rust, and they work great! I have nothing but praise for all three products!

Not exactly. http://www.eastwood.com/ew-gas-tank-sealer-kits-for-cars.html

This is the product I was thinking of.

If you're in the USA where chemicals and paints can be shipped by common carriers the Eastwood product is probably good. Their products have a pretty good reputation for quality.

When I did the gas tank in my old V-8 Ford 15 years ago I used a Por-15 gas tank treatment kit.

http://www.por15.com/FUEL-TANK-REPAIR-KIT/productinfo/FTRK/

Worked real nice. The sealer paint part of the kit is a pretty bullet proof air curing coating (I think it's the humdity in the air that does the job). So I can heartily recommend that product. But note once you open the can you have to use it pretty soon. So follow the instructions carefully.

Ed Weldon

I have wondered about Por-15 for years. Thanks for the advice.

Molasses as a 10% solution in water (1 part Molasses:9 parts water) will deactivate rust as long as its not too scaly.

I would suggest DaveB's solution with the gravel (can also use old nuts & bolts in lieu of gravel) to remove the scale.

Then fill with above solution for a day or so.

Do not use on cast iron, as I'm told is ruins cast iron parts, but steel is ok.

You can buy Molasses at any produce store. Often used as animal food supplement. Its the crude form of Treacle.

Are you talking about a petrol/ diesel (as in the US terms "gas station" and "I am going to gas in my car") tank or a gas (the state of matter distinguished from the solid and liquid states) tank?

If the tank is rusty then perhaps the best solution (depending on the application and internal pressure of course) would be to replace it.

I did the sand/gravel thing 10 years ago on an old Studebaker Truck tank.

The used "Bill Hirsh" brand Tank Sealer.... but any brand will do.

Haven't had a problem since....

Now I'm retrofitting the brakes to Silicone fluid... and dual pot master cylinder....

Explosives!

If it is a small tank DaveB #5 is a good remedy. If it is a larger tank, you should replace it with new tank or Renu. There is a network of Renu dealers in North America. I have a friend in the area who operates such a business and says it is great. I have not used his Renu service but they are reliable mechanics who do work for me as required. FYI

If it is a very large UST then you will be required to replace it as per regulations. UST=underground storage tank. The environmental cleanup of a leaking UST will exceed the replacement costs.

Hello. Is this Domino's? I wonder if I could bake my gas tank in your oven after work today? Hello? Hello? I wonder if it was something I said?

Por-15

standard method is to vat/boil the tank, which is a job well suited to today's radiator shops. We have to clean them before shipping and they have to be tested for HC's before the shippers will accept them. My local radiator shop has done several for me and we have never had one rejected for shipment due to the presents of HC's after vatting/boiling them out.

Do you lose the exterior paint job when you do that? I have a neglected tank I want to clean but I don't want to lose the factory paint job.