Sikaflex Sealants

JB Weld? http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php It is the duct tape of adhesives. They have versions for steel, aluminum and several other applications. In most cases you can grab whatever is next to the register at the hardware store and you are ready to go. I have talked to people that mix up globes, let it harden and then mill/turn it to make custom parts.

If holes are very big consider laying down a layer of thin fiberglass from a hobby store. Thin fiberglass and epoxy thinned with lacquer thinner is often used to put a skin on RC aircraft. Use a thin layer of JB weld (or epoxy or Metalset A4 http://www.smooth-on.com/tb/files/METALSET_A4_TB.pdf or whatever) with the fiberglass to bridge over holes.

Bruce

Why not remove it by drilling out the pop rivets and putting sealer in and around the holes when "popping" it back on again.

Remove any "rest" squeezed out carefully, using petroleum or similar (but carefully clean again before painting)..

Thats how I replaced a damaged rain/water channel on my caravan about 6 years ago.....it has never leaked.

Having been a roofer, but not a car guy, I can say that "Sikaflex" is really good stuff if that is how you are going to do it. It works with galvanized metal, and aluminum since I have used both in flashings for many roof applications without any problems. It is a urethane based product rather than a silicon based product, and so I think it adheres better and is stronger. My Dad used it to repair a small hole that appeared at a seam on his box trailer. I smacked the seam with a ladder when he loaned it to me, and I forgot to repair it before I returned the trailer. He repaired the seam using the Sikaflex like I told him to do, and has not had a problem since. That was probably 10+ years ago. I would think your Landrover's roof would probably have less flex and movement than that trailer, and the Sikaflex would be appropriate. A more permanent fix would be, as suggested already, to drill out the pop rivets, "Sikaflex" the holes and then re-install the piece with the appropriate size pop rivets.

Cheers

In light of your application, lost in the tube sikaflex cost should not be that important. However, you may find that keeping the sikaflex tube in large enough zip lock bag (removing as much air as you can or even, maybe even replacing the air with argon should you have some on hand) will extend its usability for a while. Also, Sikaflex is also available from boating outlets and I believe that you will find toothpaste size package that may be more suitable for your application. Same preservation treatment apply !

Last, may I suggest that you wear disposable gloves for that application. Sikaflex is a great and as such, a very messy product to work with !

Most modern vehicle now are glued together as well as welded.Check with your local body shop to see what they use now to attach body parts.The adhesive is flexible,strong, and paintable.Don't know which brands are available in your area, so check locally.

I would agree with the idea of using a flexible sealant before the rivets. In the home supply stores there are now paint-able silicones available. 3M makes a wealth of automotive sealants. If you have access to That line of products, look on line for information that will suit your needs. Good luck.

Try using a "polysulfide" adhesive between the two metal layers and pop rivet it tight together. This stuff will bond almost any two metals or even concrete together. It comes in two parts much like epoxy resin. Be forewarned not to get it on your skin or your clothes.......it'll have to wear off your skin which will take weeks. You'll never remove it from the clothes.

Prestressed concrete water tank constructors use this stuff to bond the pre-cast concrete wall and roof panels to steel connector plates. Great stuff and sets up fast!