E350 Ford Club Wheel Seizing

YOU ARE DRIVING A DEATH TRAP!!!!!!!!

Water in brake fluid is lethal. Your questions exhibit a complete lack of knowledge of brake systems.

Have it towed to a shop, now. Do not drive it yourself!

If you consider water in the brake fluid a casual problem you are a danger to society.

Do you need a translation???????????

The other replies ar correct. Changing brake systems is not rocket science. Maybe the chemistry of brake fluid mixing with water is. I have bled the system numerous times and replace both front brakes and calipers. I am going to completely drain and add new fluid today and change that wheels line. Then I'd if there is still a problem I willnreplace the master cylinder. I will fix this and I am asking for some insight. Thanks!

OK,

If you insist on doing this, here's what I suggest.

Buy a shop manual and follow the instructions.

Replaced fluid and right front line and rebelled system drove 0 miles with double the braking and everything seems okay. Let u know if any problems. Thanks for. Your help Savannah Sweet..... ( =

Lyn is right you don't seem to have any grasp of the braking system

brake fluid is hygroscopic ie it absorbs water, if water has got into the system other than by absorption from the air, serious damage could have occurred the braking system.

the calipers may need to be centralised when pads are fitted

you may of damaged the seals in the calipers when changing the pads.

if your car has ABS or EBS you may also need to recalibrate with a service tool ( ie computer}

The old calipers I took out had one actually broken. Can it be a bad line to caliper?

so did you change the above caliper ?

can it be a bad line to caliper

It can be almost anything especially if you don't know what your doing, No offense but you would not know if a part was faulty unless you have been trained

Example, i had a once neighbor who changed some u bolts on the drive shafts on a friends Austin mini.

i happened to go into his garage while he was fitting the parts back, and picked up the U bolts and was horrified to see the how worn they were, my neighbor said he had fitted U bolts like that to 4 other cars, what threw him was the fact that all the U bolts were worn the same so he thought they were meant to be that shape. ( dick head my neighbor not you)

First of all, welcome to a fine place for learning.

Your post leaves us all with questions. As stated, water is absorbed by brake fluid. So, how could you determine there was water in your brake fluid in the reservoir. The water would mix. Oil would also mix, so what did you see???? Unless there was so much water, that the brake fluid could not absorb any more.

While water is bad for a brake system, it is better than petroleum based fluids. (motor oil, transmission fluid, gasoline) These fluids will swell all rubber parts in your brake system. Water will accelerate rusting of the steel parts, but nothing worse for the braking system than that. What water will do is BOIL. and then expand something like 600 times original space. When the water boils and expands, it can cause the piston in the caliper to push out on the brake pads, causing the wheel to drag badly.

Another thing that could cause your problem is a bad brake hose at that corner. As a brake hose ages, and gets cracks in it, flaps, or inner bubbles can form. these can block the return of brake fluid to the master.

If you are not qualified to drain and flush all of the brake fluid, and then properly bleed the system, then you need help. If that does not cure your problem, you will need to test for a bad hose. Jack up the wheels, and start the engine and push the pedal hard, and see how long it takes for the wheel to roll freely again. Compare side to side for results. The hose will not be affected by distance traveled. The water in the system will be effected by heat build up. Good luck, be safe.

Bob is right; If pressure builds up only at one wheel it is most probably the flexable hose at that wheel.

In an emergency one can fill the system with water to get home.[Remember to use brakes just for stopping, use gears to reduce speed!] The system then must be dismanteled immediately, clean everything and blow methelated spiritus through pipes, then with clean[new un-opened bottle] brake fluid before reassembly.

By all means repair the brakes yourself if you are no dimwitt........it is not rocket science!

Jurie SA

You correctly wrote:-

By all means repair the brakes yourself if you are no dimwitt........it is not rocket science!

But you and the OP should never forget the website called Darwin-Awards...... nBe careful!!

http://www.darwinawards.com/stupid/

Something is preventing fluid getting back to the master cylinder.

The list could be quite long, even carpets have been known to cause such problems...

The pedal not being able to return fully up, damage to the master cylinder, rust, bad flexible hoses (damage may not be apparent, but you could try swapping the left and the right ones just for testing!).....

Water mixed in has several effects, rusting of components is one and boiling of the fluid at low temperatures is another, both are dangerous....

To test for water I would preferably use a test tube, half fill it with a sample of the fluid and heat it over a Bunsen burner. If it starts to sound like chips being fried in oil or fat, then you have water mixed in the fluid....

It should remain silent when the fluid is new......

As to just how much water is there I cannot help, but if I can, I would encourage you to just completely replace the fluid if it "clicks" when heated.

But water is not the problem you are seeing with the left front wheel, unless rust has damaged a valve in the master cylinder or something.....

The other replies ar correct. Changing brake systems is not rocket science. Maybe the chemistry of brake fluid mixing with water is. I have bled the system numerous times and replace both front brakes and calipers. I am going to completely drain and add new fluid today and change that wheels line. Then I'd if there is still a problem I willnreplace the master cylinder. I will fix this and I am asking for some insight. Thanks!

The brake hose to the caliper is defective. Probably the crimp at the fitting closest to the master cylinder sheared a piece of rubber from the inner surface of the hose that acts as a check valve restricting or preventing the brake fluid from returning to the reservoir and releasing pressure on the caliper piston.

Replace both hoses to the front calipers, flush the system with clean brake fluid, bleed and ride on. Since the caliper has surely overheated, closely inspect the piston seals for heat damage or replace the caliper again. Happy motoring.

Bob

<>too new for all this talk of hoses unless you let petrolium oils into the system, I wonder if the problem since it affects one wheel might lie in the anti lock solenoid valving being rusted and contaminated, time to visit the junk yard to find a good valving assembly, flushing all the brakes and using a clean pure dot3-5 fluid only, I had a customer once put john deere hydralic fluid in his peugeot by mistake, flushed and filled immediatly with no long term effect after looking up the origanal source of fluid loss, master cyl rear seal.<>back then you could by rebuild kits for most peugeot stuff,, he left happy and wiser,
First look up the abs code to find out why the abs light is saying "Hey I ain't working well.maybe not at all.."""

Good luck and let us know what you find
Mitch retired peugeot mech

Please check the wheel bearings, it may not be the brakes at all. Worn out bearings can seize when hot and move when cool.

I use a pressure pump to bleed which forces air and water up to the master cylinder, draining it with a baster as I go. This often solves the abs problems easier than than the old brake pedal method.

Brake fluid gets very dark after contamination with water. Never use old brake fluid! The lid can never be tightened enough to stop contamination. Purchase a new small bottle every time. The old bottle of fluid works great as a cutting agent for drilling and tapping so you don't have to throw it out. Also brake fluid will destroy your paint if not cleaned off immediately. Hope this helps.

Good tip for use as a cutting agent, thanks.

Many replies have been sent and I haven't read them all. Water in the brake system isn't the end of the world, it looks like someone has told you how to get that out. The water will probably not cause the "seizing" in one wheel that you describe. I have seen that a brake hose that was allowed to hold up a caliper while a brake job (changing pads) was being done will cause "aneurysm" in the brake hose. This is when the inner tube of the brake hose is kinked from accidentally dropping the caliper and kinking the hose or kinking the hose by putting the caliper up over the frame of the car and moving the hose through a tighter bend radius than is was designed for. I have seen episodes where there was no brake action to the effected wheel or the problem you describe, where the pressure get to the caliper but is not allowed to return the fluid to the master cylinder, causing the resultant drag on that wheel.

Did you notice the caliper taking off from your hand as you removed it from the spindle? and hanging helplessly, or did it jump up to some position on the car so it felt safe? These may be things to consider in your quest for the answer.

You may try to loosen the hose from the caliper and try to notice if there is residual pressure at the caliper. That should give you the answer, if the problem is what I have described......... good luck!