Rolling a Radius in Light Steel or Aluminum

r=? Maybe this is intuitive to smart people.

I'd rather try to roll 1/8th inch steel.

Mixing units gave me a headache.

You might get away with a brake, depending on how smooth the r needs to be. I don't think the size of the brake matters. If you stack two pieces on top of each other, you'll get a nice radius on the "outside" piece, even using the brake.

Next.

Lynn,

Actually, the little 'bend marks' on the steel would help the water to grab hold and push harder as opposed to a slick surface.

thank you.

nm

Virtually any sheet metal shop with a press brake should be able to do this. Successive small bends like this are sometimes called "bumps." If accuracy is needed, it can all be calculated; otherwise it can be basically a repeated freehand operation.

T,

Any idea what kind of a brake would do 1/8" steel?

Could it be done on a smaller , hand type brake or is hydraulics involve3d?

Thank you.

You could use longer/wider pieces & cut off the excess

any chance of cutting some sections out pipe

you can probably rig something similar to what is used to bend flat bar [or round] for decorative iron fencing

A fence guy may even be able to do it for you

Since you're bending the long way, you probably need more than a hand brake or roller. However, you might be able to use an ordinary hydraulic press, lay the workpiece in a channel of suitable size, and press down in the middle with a piece of pipe of the right radius. I'm not familiar with the arithmetic on tonnage, though.

To solve this problem using what you have available, you can cut the strips long enough with a guillotine, to get say 4 pieces, from each strip, then roll the long strips through your rollers, that you mentioned in your post, then cut them to the required length, with a hand held grinder, fitted with a 1mm stainless steel cut off wheel.

The other method you have been offered as a solution, of many small breaks, on a brake press, will give you a very difficult job, if you want to get a nice looking finish.

The brake press needed wil have to be either hydraulic, or power operated by some other means and this will cost you a lot more time and or money to get a result.

Free advice is always cheap !!!

try purchasing a small manual roll of 50 to 100 cm

surely it will do the job

and not that expensive

you may find it at a large supply shop nearby

or even purchase it online for a few hundred dollars

Something like this? I seem to remember seeing them a little cheaper but I don't recall where.

You need to use either an "English Wheel", or a "Planishing Hammer" with the proper radius dies in order to produce a slight curvature in your sheet metal that you desire. Using a sheet metal brake may produce very defined and crisp bends that you may not like...

Captain:

They're tools used for body building (A.K.A. coach building), as in forming and dressing car panels, or aircraft curvy bits, medieval armor - 3D sheet metal creation.

the bottom bit, in this 'original art', is a "stake"

Nowadays machines are used in custom work and 'panel beating'.

If this is what you were recommending the parts you have 'not quite right', as they rely on the operator guiding the work and 'distance' for safety.

If Netmaker tried using one on his size job - he'd probably 'nibble off' his fingers.

And 1/8" is hardly sheet metal

He'd be hard pushed to find one capable of over 16 gauge (^_1/16")

So should I now paraphrase your 'attitude' when some totally unqualified person offers 'dangerous advice' ....

I presume these are some existing thing you are modifying and you have many to do Y/N?

If Y; then I would find a bit of bar the right inside radius, and a bit of heavy angle, and make a press tool to fit a 3 ton fly press.

You may need to put a bit of die rubber in the angle to keep the lead of the bend "brake" against the top tool (the bit of bar)

You could also get someone to machine the bottom die to your radius.

That done you can bang them out as fast as you can load and swing the press.

I don't think rollers can do it - other than 'forcing it in' - which is 'bad practice' for the machine.

Roll formers come in many sizes. I've seen one, a horizontal type, in a structural steel fab shop that bends large, and I mean laaarge, I beams for bridge arches. One that can handle 1/8" steel or 3/16" aluminum shouldn't be too hard to find for a reasonable price. As long as this isn't a one time use, it might be worth the investment. The one I linked to can handle only 18 ga and is held in a vise. Light duty for sure. Auto body type equipment. That company also has a little bit larger ones at their stores, if you are lucky (or unlucky) enough to be near one. Bring someone with you that hates tools to hold on to your credit card. Ask her for a valium before going in. And a strong leash would be a good idea too.

I checked and nothing they carry does more than 18 ga. Keep looking for a fab shop or blacksmith (there is actually a welding shop near me that still does blacksmithing for decorative wrought iron railings).

I think you will be up against the basic geometry of roller length/strength, and so diameter, for this thickness of material.

Also meaning you can only roll the center bit and have two straight bits either side, so it's not much different to a press in the middle with a large radius blade.

But I now think I was under on the tonnage for 400 mm length, so it might be better to have a tool made to suit a local press or press-brake.

More expensive than fabricating out of junk at hand, but .....