Bearing Replacement

Post a picture or two...

Specs on the bearing block are 1/16" lip on one side and 1/32" on the other.Trying to remove the bearing "pushing" towards the 1/32" side resulted in the broken block :-( The other pic shows the replacement bearing...hopefully the concave is visible in the pic for you to see. Thoughts???

In the center pic - those two slots let the bearing dismantle.

You rotate the bearing 90⁰ (in the spherical housing) and it comes out.

I.e turn it so the axis of the shaft lines up with the mounting bolts

Remember Garthh's comment on possible nipple and pin

Thanks--pic 2 was what I was describing in post 3.

Perfect pictures

Take the pieces and any dimensions you have and go to a good industrial supply house.

They will have all the information, from all manufacturers and will be able to cross reference this with an exact complete bearing assembly.

Rebuilding this bearing considering that absolute lack of maintenance is the "kiss of death"

A new assembly form a manufacturer will speed up your install and guarantee that it will work. That is as long as the shaft that goes into the bearing is still true.

Thanks to all...Esp to 34.5 and Tornado...pulled old bearing out in a manner of seconds. Replaced new bearing, again, in a manner of seconds. Doesn't seem like it should work by rotating the bearing..but it does!

contat the bearing manafacturer ,as i did they would suggest in my case SKF the beaing manafacturer recamanded to purchae bearing extractor for the machine i had and solved the issue.

crm

I think you probably hit it on the nose...

many times the style tornado is describing

you would need to remove the grease fitting & a pin under it, the pin keeps the bearing from spinning

I know this is probably not the scenario you are talking about but we always used to keep some ground up allen keys for bearing extraction. Very strong and useful for getting behind the outer race after breaking the cage and extracting the inner. Front wheel bearings etc.

The shape provides the leverage.

Clean it up and send a picture.

A picture is worth a thousand words.

A photo, please.

Dear Stuck Bearing, A picture would help everyone solve this problem. If you could access an SKF Rolling Bearings Handbook, like what I have in my hand, circa 1979, it would help you enormously. If you cannot use a standard bearing puller to grip inside the inner ring, can you access the bearing with a drift punch from behind? I take it there is no shaft through the bearing, otherwise this is a major removal job. If you do not have an exact fitting drift punch, made of brass hopefully, try tapping lightly from side to side to slowly walk it out from behind, avoiding damage to the flange bearing hole. Did the bearing overheat and/or corrode? Spray a little Aerokroil on the bearing if rusted, etc. If you had a small area behind the bearing, there are tools made to fit behind wedge style and a wedge shaped punch to tap on from the other side, which jams the other wedge tool so as not to slip out of the inner race/ring. If by chance the inner ring cracks in removing, knock it all out, including the bearings, which leaves you with a stuck outer ring/bearing race in the flange. I've cut these out with a disk cutter bit in a drill, cutting two slots which releases the pressure fit of the bearing in the flange. And yes, sometimes we've heated an allen wrench red hot in a vise, tapped it with a hammer to get the right bend, ground the tip to fit behind the bearing and start tapping out side to side. I know it sounds stupid, please check the bearing number on the seal and make sure the one your replacing is to specs. Hope this helped.

which leaves you with a stuck outer ring/bearing race in the flange

When this happens (outer race stuck in the housing) I have heard it suggested to run a weld bead all around the inner surface of the race. The shrinkage as the weld cools will let the outer race come out.