How to Remove a Compound Rest Crank Off Screw?

Is the "Pin" like a scotch key....?

Will the handle just pull off......? Maybe a little bit of persuasion....

Even if it is a tapered pin.....?

As all the ????? marks indicate. Guessing here.

Lots of Luck.

Mark N.

I would expect it to be either a roll pin or a taper pin.

Either way it is possible that it has been bent in situ by someone applying excessive force. That would make it difficult to extract.

Does the hole go all the way through?

If so a pin punch from one side or the other may be able to knock it out.

I tried to pull it off and its buggering up the threads. The pin doesn't go all the way through as I tried to drive it through and probably made it more tight. I believe it goes into the shaft at an angle. What a pain!

drive it the other way

I wish I could, the pin goes down into the shaft. No way to drive it out. The only other way I see is to try to drill it out but I bet it is a hard alloy .

kinda like this...

In that configuration, are you sure that it didn't start off as a grub screw?

Drilling it out may now be your only option.

That would appear to be some sort of indexing pin that keeps everything lined up. I also suspect you do not have a whole lot of room to get at it to grab it. If it is a split roll pin, can you maybe get a screw extractor of the appropriate size wedged into the free end? Or maybe go after it with a diamond Dremel bit...

Is there enough of the pin sticking out to to place a steel rod with an appropriate size hole onto it and then weld, braze or silver solder them together? If so, thread the opposite end of the rod and use a slide hammer to pull the pin (this is assuming the pin is a friction fit and not threaded).

Good idea

It is obvious that you know exactly what to do, and you have generously shared with tbone8. Well done, and GA.

Glad you liked it. I was afraid the post might be to long and boring. I have a real problem with details. Usually to many.

Pay attention to the small stuff and the big stuff will take care of itself.

Wow, thanks for the help. I figured somebody would know the answer. I need to replace the dial because it is worn from rubbing against the handle and there is a gap which makes slop in the rest top. I am going to try to shim it first with a washer I made for it. What I would really like to know is how in the heck that pin is put in without buggering up the threads in the first place. I took it about half way off a while back before I realized it was dragging that pin across the threads . I think I will just tap it the rest of the way off and chase the threads and be done with it. At least it will have a slot for easy removal now .

On the ones we have there is a round key way for the pin that does cut into the threads all the way to the root. Yours could be different but that's how ours is. So we do not have threads to chase.

Does your lathe have a taper attachment? If so then the cross feed screw thrust loads at the back of the machine and the cross feed screw is actually two pieces. If it does not have the taper attachment then it will thrust load on the operator side like ours. If your lathe is like ours then the cross feed screw can be removed easily with some caution. First make sure the set screw is tight on the saddle that holds the chip collar in place. If not you will get to go fishing and cuss me until the day I die for leading you down this path. The set screw is located on the saddle next to the unit code which is very close to the top opening where you can see the cross feed screw when the compound rest is positioned away from you. This screw should always be tight. Its only purpose is to hold the chip collar. The chip collar is supposed to keep debris out of the area where the thrust bearings are.

Next, remove the "oil" screw next to the cross feed handle on top of the saddle. If you forget to remove this screw you WILL ruin the threads on the bushing. Use the cross feed handle and position the compound about midway so you are not at either end of the cross feed screw limits. The cross feed bushing should have a hex on it for a wrench. Start to unscrew it. It should be snug at first then turn very easily. Unscrew it and when it is free unscrew the cross feed screw from the cross feed nut. Now you can take the assembly to the bench for better inspection.

CAUTION!!!!! When putting it back together you must mesh the pinion gear on the cross feed shaft with the bull gear in the gear box. DO NOT just try to screw it back in. First screw the cross feed screw back into the the base of the compound rest. Then as you screw the bushing back into the saddle it may jam as the gears hit. Stop screwing in the bushing and turn the cross feed handle to line up the gears. Then continue screwing in the bushing. You may need to turn the cross feed handle and the bushing at the same time to find the point where the gears mesh. After the bushing runs up tight against the saddle put the oil screw back in.

Hey hey!!! I got the handle off, chased the threads and put the shim in. No slop now and I am a happy camper. I should get nice smooth as silk cuts now... Thanks for all the help, you guys are great!

Tom

Oops, forgot to log in, I am the guest .

My service manual is from 4-5-1965 and covers 10", 13", 14-1/2", 16", and 16-24" machines. Everything I have posted is from memory as the book does not list repair procedures. If you need copies of the parts list for the area you are working on I can try to scan them in and post or email.

I have all the parts manuals, etc. Thank you very much for offering .