Leather Preservation

Saddle soap might also be good.

Avoid neatsfoot oil around any stitching - over time it will cause it to weaken or rot.

There are products specifically made for this purpose. If you visit an equestrian tack shop (or search one online) they can help you and explain how and how often to apply. There are separate products for cleaning and conditioning. Also, it's important not to use much water.

Tornado has given the answer. If utility leather items, then saddle soap is it.

Saddle soap is good for cleaning dirty or molded leather, but for appearance and preservation use Lexol or baseball glove oil. You can get Lexol from internet suppliers like Jeffers Pet Supply.

Into the smorgasbord we could also throw Sno-Seal (for mountain-climbing boots) or Huberd's Shoe Grease (for wet area boots in general). (Assuming these still exist.)

[Weird factoid: Lapsang Souchong tea (my favorite, and featured in James Michener's Centennial) smells much like Huberd's. Go figure.]

Tannins

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and I have valuable info for you!

Then why not share it with the whole forum?

GFG

Saddle Soap to clean with. Only when needed. Neatsfoot oil to keep from drying out, only as needed. The leather will tell you when. As it gets and shows dirty, clean and oil. If it does not need cleaning but it is feeling like it is starting to lose pliability and feeling a tad dry the n it needs oiling. Worse things are not oiling enough and oiling way to much.

In days of yore (do you like that, I have been waiting an age to use it) the British army used Dubbin when fighting, on all none dress items so harnesses straps and bags etc get up to your neck in stuff for a month or two and then wash your leather kit down with clean water and go on parade. It is still available as Dubbin on the internet, here

blancoandbull.com

Go to this web site:

http://leatherhoney.com/

This product will cause some darkening of the leather but restores its suppleness like nothing else I've ever used.

Another item you may be interested in trying is Mink Oil. I have used this many times on leather that is between 5 and 150 years old with an exceptional success rate. It is a thick paste with the consistency of patroleum jelly. When applied, allow the leather to sit out in the sun for a few hours to let the oil penetrate.

I agree. I've used Mink Oil for many decades... since Boy Scouts, on my hiking boots.

I agree - Mink oil works on my stuff and lasts a long while as post #13 suggested as well - Loupy.

If you are preserving them for long term storage, they must first be cleaned thoroughly using saddle soap, and disinfected with Lysol, or some other common disinfectant. Dry thoroughly and then apply a generous amount of lanolin. Then the items need to be placed in a vacuum-sealed container to eliminate any O2 from the package as this is the prime culprit that will disintegrate the pieces over time.

Neatsfoot oil smells best, and is an excellent leather preservative. You can't go wrong with that. Native Americans used salted animal fat,(when they could find salt) but after awhile, it did sometimes cause the leather to have the slight oder of something long dead. I have used STP Son of a Gun, the same stuff you use on auto interiors (DO NOT USE Armor-All) on leather that has to sit outside alot, saddles and whatnot, and it is fantastic. It just smells like Son of a Gun. Not bad, but not that great leather smell.

Brooks Saddles (bicycle) sells a product called Proofide that sells for about $10 for a 4oz tin. Or you can go to tack shop and get saddle oil for $2.50 a quart. I use mink oil, on my boots and my leather bicycle saddles. (And when they come up with a plastic saddle that's more comfortable than leather, I'll buy it!)

Using neatsfoot oil on a leather bicycle seat can cause the dye to leach out and stain your pants. (Maybe that's why they wear black).

With over forty years experience treating leather products, I can't believe in this forum, with all its brain power, you guys never heard of Lexol. Used extensively out here in the Western U.S. by cowhands treating leather horse saddles, boots, gloves, etc. It's a conditioner and preservative for all leather goods. Oils will do more harm than good, especially mink oil, which breaks down the leather, stretching it and making it appear supple, though susceptible to cuts and premature failure. If you have mildew, clean the leather with witchhazel, let it dry overnight, apply Lexol. if the leather will be used in poor weather conditions, use a bees wax type product like Nikwax, used for winter cross-country skiing. Warm the leather and apply the wax by hand rubbing it in to penetrate deep in the leather. I melt beeswax myself and apply to all my boots after the Lexol treatment. Beeswax will not let ANY bacteria grow, forget the oils, that's for city boys.

Sorry. I disagree.

SADDLE SOAP. (Not shouted out, but said very slowly)

I might be a little old fashioned, I'm not supporting the newest stuff, but if it ain't broke don't mess around with it.

As I said, Tornado has given the right answer.

Signed, Doorman. Raised on beef ranch in Wyoming, spent 25 years in Montana and Idaho with farmers, ranchers, hunters, loggers... outdoor people of all types. All of the seasoned veterans use SADDLE SOAP (Not shouted out, but said very slowly).

i.e. SAAAAAD-DLLLLLLE SOOOOOOOOOOAP

Saddle soap is exactly that, soap. It has lye in it that breaks down the natural oils in the leather. It should be washed off and a preservative applied after it is dry. Absolutely no man made chemicals should be applied either, ketone, lacquer, etc., again destroying the natural oils. My best friend restores WWII jackets and tells me that the cotton stitching is affected by some products. Nylon stitching is far less affected. The oldest preservative in the world for leather is beeswax, just ask the ice-man. Lexol has the best website for all your leather needs, I've used their products professionally for 30 years. My neighbor is Dave Page who does all the warranty shoe repair for REI Inc., I'll ask him for another opinion and whose company probably worked on a million pairs of shoes from all over the world.

I can't believe in this forum, with all its brain power, you guys never heard of Lexol

Mentioned in post #4

If you look at answer #4 you will see that I advised using Lexol. As to the references to using mink oil, be aware that it is primarily for waterproofing and contains silicone. A good product but be aware that once you use it, applying dye or using other conditioners or protectorants is just about impossible. Your leather item will be totally committed to mink oil.

Along the same lines, what can I use to keep colored leather in good shape? I have a lovely book, bound in blue leather. Neatsfoot oil seemed to darken it & change the color! I don't want to lose any more color -- What can I use instead of neatsfoot oil?

Bottom line.... you're asking for opinions. So you're not going to find out what is truly "best". The answers given are all extremely subjective, based on all of our personal experiences treating leather. Lexol, Mink Oil, Neatsfoot, Saddle Soap, Leather Honey, etc... none of them are "bad" for leather. They've all been used successfully by millions over the years. There are also different types of leather. You mentioned you were interested in "structural" leather. But I'm not sure exactly what you meant by straps and belts. That could be on actual saddles, or other less hardy equipment.

The Mink Oil I mentioned, as I said... I used on my hiking boots. Worked great on that, but depending on what belts you're talking about, might not be best for you. Saddle Soap is great for getting the grime out, but it may be best to follow it up with one of the other products mentioned. If there is stitching involved, Neatsfoot may not be best; but without stitching it might be just what you need. Lexol and Leather Honey are more modern chemical concoctions that also have their place on certain items. As does beeswax, on certain leather uses.

Aside from finding the product to fit your specific need, I would say that the effectiveness of these various products differs only in a matter of a few degrees. Some are better, if only because of the various odors that may linger, or the staining characteristics, or the weather/temperature to which the leather will be exposed.

So the simple answer is... it's not cut & dry. It depends.

Here is something that may help you make a decision. It describes many of the products that have been mentioned, and you can make your own informed choice based on your needs and preferences:

http://www.buzzle.com/articles/understanding-leather-products.html

Oh, and if the leather products in question are of a certain type... you may want to ask a friendly dominatrix

Thanks for the many replies and opinions. Looks like it's a bit like penetrating oil (penetrant)--there are several opinions as to what is best.

Since I "play" with antique fire apparatus, what I have is mostly straps, but could include other things like the leather buckets used so many years ago. Straps include those used to hold suction hose on the pumpers, or ladder company belts which go around the waist and may be used to hold tools.

I have heard of Lexol, but mainly (except this site) from the people who sell it. I have also heard of mink oil. Have heard of lanolin, but not for use on leather. Have NOT heard of Dubbin, Leather Honey, and STP Son of a Gun.

Other sources have recommended bear grease (brand name??), Pecard Oil, and Hyde Food (which is English and mainly for upholstery I think).

But most people I have asked never heard of Pecard Oil.

I think I read on a can of Dubbin, it's bees wax and lanolin - mostly. Got curious thanks to you, but it seems no one is telling.

I'd say it's THE dressing/restorer/weather-proofer for tack and leather gear in rural Australia. (no, I don't have shares)

Forgot last night to mention that some leather items are the leather cups in piston water pumps, which I cannot get at without impractical disassembly. But one is in a relief valve which I can access with only 9 or so bolts. Another use is leather hinged valves and leather-wrapped pistons in a circa 1802 water pump; can't really get at the valves, and the pistons would take a couple of gallons if I soak them in coffee cans after pulling out of the pump (not difficult.)

Hyde food is made by Connelly (spelling?)

Since a lot of the leather I can actually treat has stitching, it looks like I should use something besides neatsfoot oil. That means something "modern."

Well.... as I said, this link will take you to a site that tells about every one of these items that have been mentioned:

http://www.buzzle.com/articles/understanding-leather-products.html

Modern leather is treated with chromium sulfates. Mink oil, saddle soap, and even sno-seal will destroy the leather. Sno-seal has some kind of solvent in it, possibly naphtha, though the company will never tell you. Leather that is 60 years old was treated with oil from oak bark in the tanning process. In 1968 I learned how bad mink oil is on modern leather, I ruined a perfectly good pair of work boots that summer working as a roofer. I bought the mink oil at REI, it was bad advice. Brooks Proofhide also has some kind of solvent. SADDLE SOAP IS NOT A PRESERVATIVE. Beeswax and lanolin are natural products that preserve leather, so silvCrow and 34point5 are giving this forum good advice. Oil will break down modern leather, but may be suitable for old leather. The guys I know who do restoration work use neatsfoot because of the stitching, and Lexol is bad for the stitching. After the first recommendation to use Lexol, #4, everyone only talked about the wrong thing to put on leather, except for using Dubbin, which appears to have the right ingredients.

The guys I know who do restoration work use neatsfoot because of the stitching, and Lexol is bad for the stitching.

This is opposite some of the advice above! Which is right? The leather I am concerned with is 70 or so years old.

Neatsfoot breaks down cotton stitching. Fact.

He probably just mis-wrote it.

_Dubbin